A34 jig saw help/advice

[BobCoates1953]

I have a question on an A34 jig saw I just received. While tightening the blade screw part no 134-14 in lower chuck assembly I though that I had striped the housing. It turned out that the set screw is in a pressed fit bushing. Not realizing this I completely turned it out of housing. Re inserting it will continue to back itself out when tightening.
Question:
Should I epoxy, or JB weld this into the housing since it doesn’t stay when tightening. Or am I just over tightening the set screw?
The shopsmith is going to my son and I know he would become frustrated if this constantly backs out.
Any other suggestions welcome.
Thanks
Bob

[chapmanruss]

Bob, sorry no one has had any advice on this problem for you yet. It is a tough one. The alloy that makes up the "head" is soft so they used the insert to avoid stripped threads. Epoxy and JB weld are both rather thick so I would worry about bonding strength in the almost zero space between the insert and the alloy around it. I wonder if CA cement might be a better choice. Be careful not to get any on other parts. I do not know how the alloy will react to CA cement or remover/acetone if needed. I have restored seven of these Jig Saws with one more waiting and have not had this problem. I do know that some chemicals will damage the alloy.

[BobCoates1953]

Thanks Russ,
Didn't think reaction with metal. I just used acetone to clean up most of the parts on the rest of 10er. Some one on 10er group suggested dimpling the metal around the outside insert. I was also going to try that. Another suggestion was to use locktie blue or red but not on threads.
Again thnaks for warning and idea about CA.

Bob

[BuckeyeDennis]

Loctite makes retaining compounds specifically for bonding cylindrical parts — both press fit and slip fit. I checked out their selection guide, and it looks to me as if Loctite 648 would be the right stuff for your application.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/ ... e_648.html

Amazon sells a 10 ml bottle for about $15.

[jsburger]

Loctite makes retaining compounds specifically for bonding cylindrical parts — both press fit and slip fit. I checked out their selection guide, and it looks to me as if Loctite 648 would be the right stuff for your application.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/ ... e_648.html

Amazon sells a 10 ml bottle for about $15.

Absolutely, Locktite makes many special adhesives for all types of applications. They are not just for threads. Thread versions are the only ones us consumers are familiar with because they are the only ones commonly available to the public.

When I was overhauling aircraft generators for the Air Force we used many different versions for different applications.

[chapmanruss]

John is our Loctite expert. Either way you go I would try a small dot on the outside of the part near where it attaches to the shaft to check for compatibility with the metal alloy first. A spot there wouldn't be very noticeable.

John have you used Loctite on the alloy parts with success? If not would you try a "test" dot on the outside first?

If you are going to try dimpling the metal around the outside of the insert as has been suggested put some extra metal in the blade slot to take up the empty space. You do not want to accidentally push the thread sleeve in.

[jsburger]

John is our Loctite expert. Either way you go I would try a small dot on the outside of the part near where it attaches to the shaft to check for compatibility with the metal alloy first. A spot there wouldn't be very noticeable.

John have you used Loctite on the alloy parts with success? If not would you try a "test" dot on the outside first?

If you are going to try dimpling the metal around the outside of the insert as has been suggested put some extra metal in the blade slot to take up the empty space. You do not want to accidentally push the thread sleeve in.

I have not used it on an alloy. I don't see why it would not work. The spec sheet for Red 271 Loctite does not have any restrictions for metals, just plastic. I would use Red since it is stronger than Blue 242. Loctite 271 cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces so you need a tight fit for best results. I doubt you would ever want to take the joint apart but if you d0 Red 271 will release if heated to 500 degrees F.

[BobCoates1953]

Used the advice with loctite red and then lightly added some dimples. Since it was going to my son just wanted little extra security.

[JPG]

Keep the screw threads well lubricated(grease).

[beeg]

Keep the screw threads well lubricated(grease).

Why knot graphite?