Shopsmith Forums

Currently used with an alignment plate and not a blade as shown here. The blade does not provide the same level of repeatability as does the plate. The blade is too easily flexed.

Curiosity piqued. Could you explain a little more about how it works in use?

1. Is there a slot/pocket for the blade/disk in either/both pieces? What's its purpose?

2. Why is a jig needed on both sides of the blade/disk?

Al

First of all, the table must be properly aligned to the user's desired level of precision before the jig is cut/constructed.

Why is it NEEDED? It is not. There are many other ways to accomplish this alignment. You might say I am playing. Some will say a "waste of time and effort".

Yes, there is a pocket in one side only. I believe that encapsulating the blade in this manner helps to stabilize the table while the four trunnion bolts are being secured. The blade does flex easily and this was done to reduce that tendency. The alignment plate may even flex some. This flexing contributes to table movement and thus some level of inaccuracy as the trunnions are secured.

Nice, thanks for sharing.

Dusty,
It looks like an inexpensive way to make a quick and accurate way to check and align the table. I use an alignment plate also but with the dial indicator. Just curious if you have checked your guides accuracy with a dial indicator and the results. Nice idea Dusty.

chapmanruss wrote:Dusty,
It looks like an inexpensive way to make a quick and accurate way to check and align the table. I use an alignment plate also but with the dial indicator. Just curious if you have checked your guides accuracy with a dial indicator and the results. Nice idea Dusty.

No. I have not checked it with a dial indicator. I have, however, performed a table to blade alignment with it and found that to be off slightly from the intended .005". It measured .007" -.008". I did not tweak it. That is how I have been using it.

Any time I remount the rip fence, I visually check it against the left hand jig. I look for a consistent (minimal) gap between the fence and jig.

I'm still trying to understand your jig, Dusty.

Is it all connected together or are the sections to the left and right of the blade separate?

Query: If one aligned the rip fence dead parallel to the miter slots and then snugged the fence up against a sanding disk (or one of those fancy alignment plates sold by some third parties), could this be used in a similar fashion?

algale wrote:I'm still trying to understand your jig, Dusty.

Is it all connected together or are the sections to the left and right of the blade separate?

Query: If one aligned the rip fence dead parallel to the miter slots and then snugged the fence up against a sanding disk (or one of those fancy alignment plates sold by some third parties), could this be used in a similar fashion?

The two sides are separate. I use the left side frequently for quick verification of parallelism. I also use the left side as a reference surface for fence alignment. The one thing that the fence does that the other methods really don't, is center the blade in the table cutout. Yes, that can be done wit all the other methods but only with some tedious measurements. Note in one of the pictures the edge of the jig aligns to the bolt head (center of cutout).

Yes, if the rip fence is known to be parallel to the miter slots, the face of the rip fence serve the same purpose.

Holding the table in proper position while securing the trunnion bolts are establishing parallelism has always been my frustration; not achieving parallelism. This helps to maintain parallelism

Dusty,

I like this jig. Would you mind sharing the Sketchup file with me?

Thanks
Jack Lemley

claimdude wrote:Dusty,

I like this jig. Would you mind sharing the Sketchup file with me?

Thanks
Jack Lemley

I would gladly share that but I don't have it. The best I can do without recreating the drawing is post a copy of the png that I do have.

What I have is the left side only and the dimensions are NOT for the finished product.

I made two of these (twice to get it right). After getting the miter bar, base and fence cut and assembled I moved to the jointer. I first carefully jointed the rail edge to make the miter bar fit in the miter track (approximately 47/64" wide). Jointed to fit (not to a measurement).

Then with the left side mounted in the miter slot, I ripped it to just a tiny bit over width so that I could joint the face of the fence.

At this point, I contend that I have a jig suitable for table alignment (both parallel to the blade and centered in the table cutout).

The right side is not an exact duplicate. It is wider by the thickness of the blade or alignment plate that you would intend to use.