new to wood working, have some basic questions.

[chads93gt]

Ok I did what you said. I went home and I grabbed a crooked piece of oak and started working on it. I figured out how to set the jointer depth to 1/32nd of an inch so thats set. Then i squared up the stops, and set the 45^ setting on it as well. Both were a little off. AFter that I started running the board through with the crown up. After several passes i noticed the piece was slowly turning into a wedge and one side wasnt being cut down. After inspection i noticed that the edge of the table in front of the knife blades was botched up pretty good. Almost like it was hit with a hammer, so it was n't even flat. I took a metal file, rolled the knife blades out of the way, and filed the edge down so it was flat. I went ahead and manually rolled the knife blades around and noticed that there were some chunks out of the teeth here. Since I dont have new blades, nor know how to change/sharpent them (although I found a sharpening tool) I just moved the table over this portion. So basically my jointer is now a 4" jointer instead of a 6".

Finally I started on my board and finally i got the edge flat after only a couple passes. I then turned the stock to the short side with the crown up and got the 2nd edge jointed. I then set up my table saw on the shopsmith with feather boards and ran the board through making the 3rd edge. AFter this was done i got out the delta planer and ran it through. sometimes the board would feed its self through, other times i would have to force it through. I guess I dont fully understand how to use the planer yet. Its basically 5 years old and brand new. it still had the blue plastic protective covering on the silding table, whatever its called, when i went to use it. I guess her dad never took it off, as he bought it right before he passed away.

Anyway i ended up with a 1x2, 20" long out of this crooked board.

What im wondering, this cd case im wanting to build is only to be 22" wide, 6" deep and 7' tall. i'll be gluing planks to make up for the 6" width. how long of a board can i straighten with this jointer? the table top is like 4" long. Im wondering through, on the front are 2 big dials. the one on the right adjusts the depth, as i can see the depth guage next to it, and i used this to set it to 1/32nd last night. Whats the wheel on the left for? I dont even know what kind of jointer it is, as it doesnt say on it. I could post a picture if soemone could further explain it. Im just wondering what i have to do for maintenance and stuff.

[ericolson]

I went ahead and manually rolled the knife blades around and noticed that there were some chunks out of the teeth here. Since I dont have new blades, nor know how to change/sharpent them (although I found a sharpening tool) I just moved the table over this portion. So basically my jointer is now a 4" jointer instead of a 6".

how long of a board can i straighten with this jointer? the table top is like 4" long. Im wondering through, on the front are 2 big dials. the one on the right adjusts the depth, as i can see the depth guage next to it, and i used this to set it to 1/32nd last night. Whats the wheel on the left for? I dont even know what kind of jointer it is, as it doesnt say on it. I could post a picture if soemone could further explain it. Im just wondering what i have to do for maintenance and stuff.

If you've got nicks in your knives you can either replace them or shift them so the nicks are out of alignment. You can't shift them much, but just enough so the nicks won't cause high spots in your stock. A good knife setting tool is called a Jointer Pal. You won't use it often, but it's indispensable when you need it. Unless you're very experienced and have the proper sharpening equipment, I don't recommend that you try to sharpen your jointer knives yourself. They have to be dead even and completely equal across the length. I would recommend you try to find a model number/serial number and get a manual from a manufacturer. Or, since it sounds like an older model, try http://www.owwm.com. They've got a lot of downloadable manuals and other dirty paper for virtually every woodworking machine (made in America) known. You can also post photos to the photo index and someone out there will be able to identify it.
You're correct when you say that the rear dial (actually, should be some sort of hand wheel) is for the depth of cut. The front one is for setting the front of the bed (outfeed table) parallel with the knives. My procedure is as follows: I use a six inch steel rule as my straightedge. Ensuring the machine is unplugged, I turn the cutterhead by hand, looking for the highest point the knives travel (top dead center). I then do a rough set of the outfeed table to the highest point of the knives. I use the six inch rule on edge from the outfeed table to just over the knives. I rotate the cutterhead back and forth to see if the knives touch the straightedge. If not, I move the outfeed table until the knives juuuuust knick the straightedge. Not even a knick, but just a whisper of metal on metal. I measure one side, middle, opposite side, to ensure the knives are even across their length. If not, then all knives need to be adjusted. A common error is that if one knife is out of alignment, then it's the only one that needs to be fixed. Wrong. If one is out of alignment, then all knives need to be adjusted to ensure they are at the exact same height as the others and flush with the outfeed table. A Jointer Pal comes in handy as it's got magnets in it. It straddles the outfeed table and cutterhead and holds the knives at top dead center as well as flush with the outfeed table while you tighten the gib nuts (that hold the knife in the cutterhead). If you don't have one, then you can do it the old-fashioned way by just using a steel straightedge and carefully tightening each gib nut while continuously checking to ensure the knives remain top dead center and flush to the outfeed table. That procedure can be extremely time consuming and frustrating. That's why I bought a Jointer Pal. What used to take me an hour or so now takes me about fifteen to twenty minutes.
As far as maintenance, just like the Shopsmith, there isn't a whole lot involved. On the table tops, I use Johnson's paste wax. If there's a little bit of surface rust, then I rub the wax in with 0000 steel wool. I'll let that dry to a haze and then buff off with a soft rag, like an old towel. Then I'll rub and buff in a couple of more coats. You can use the same technique with the Shopsmith worksurfaces. I've also done the same thing with the Delta planer I used to own (I now own a Parks, do the same thing to it). One of the reasons the stock may have gotten stuck in your planer is because the worksurface, the tables, weren't waxed. Could've also been your depth of cut. On bench top planers, you shouldn't take more than a sixteenth of an inch off at each pass. My Parks is an industrial machine, so I can hog a quarter inch each pass but I never do. I follow the sixteenth of an inch rule.
I've just re-read your post. Is the jointer a little Delta benchtop, variable speed model? Or is it a floor standing model? Theoretically, you can face/edge joint an infinite length of stock. Safely, however, is another story. On a small benchtop jointer, I wouldn't recommend anything over four feet long. The combined length of my jointer tables is a little over six feet, so I've got some wiggle room for longer stock.

[chads93gt]

My jointer is a free standing unit that has a large motor inside the stand with two access panels on the side. The jointer its self fastens to the table from the under side with 4 large handled bolts. It has a big green on button, followed by a big red off button. It weighs. . . . . a lot. . . .

The delta planer is a bench top planer, i think it can do stock up to 12" wide. Ill rewax it tonight when i get home, along with the jointer as there is a little rust on the tops. Ill also check the front table to make sure that it is parallel with the knives. I did what you said last night, and just moved the fence?? past the knicks in the knives so that they arent even used. now, this was done after i filed the mashed edge down so its flat.

on the side of the planer is a lock, as i remember it said scroll lock? and then the knob on top that you turn to adjust the heighth. I was only going 1/16th of an inch at a time, so im going to guess it needs waxed. I did it a couple years ago when I brought it to kansas with me, but i never used it. Im sure like on anyhting the wax dissipated over time.

I'll keep an eye out for the jointer pal

here's a few quick shots of what im working with that my wife took a couple days ago before i moved them out and started toying with them.

[ericolson]

Yep, you've got a newer model Delta planer. The "scroll lock" is actually a cutterhead lock. You want to use that whenever you're planing as it helps to minimize snipe at the end of piece. Snipe is the little divot benchplaners have a tendency to take out as the stock is exiting the planer. I don't recognize your jointer, at least from the view you posted. Looks to be quite substantial, though. There's a little bitty key on the jointer base (green part) near the outfeed end. That's the key that locks your jointer table in place. Before you try to adjust the height of your outfeed table make sure you unlock the little key. I forgot once and caused myself no end of grief!!:eek: Looks like you've got your Shopsmith tricked out and ready to go. Congratulations!! Anytime/anything you have a question on, continue to post it on the forum or feel free to ping me back channel. I'm no expert on anything and just good enough to be dangerous, but I'm happy to help in any way I can.

[chads93gt]

On the note of the planer. I am going to assume you can undo the cutter head lock, adjust the thickness of the cut with the top dial, then engage the cutterhead lock again, all without shutting it off right?

As for the jointer adjustment, you mean that little key sticking out of the left side of the picture ?

I know the knob on the left side of the jointer from the picture i posted has to be loosened to adjust the cut depth. I just want to be sure were on the same page as to what your talking about. crappy photo i know, thats my wife for you

[ericolson]

On the note of the planer. I am going to assume you can undo the cutter head lock, adjust the thickness of the cut with the top dial, then engage the cutterhead lock again, all without shutting it off right?

As for the jointer adjustment, you mean that little key sticking out of the left side of the picture ?

I know the knob on the left side of the jointer from the picture i posted has to be loosened to adjust the cut depth. I just want to be sure were on the same page as to what your talking about. crappy photo i know, thats my wife for you

I wouldn't recommend trying to adjust the cutting depth while you're milling a piece of stock. To safely adjust the depth of cut and manipulate the lock, I would urge you to have the machine off. My Parks planer has a cutterhead disengager on it. If a piece I'm milling gets jammed in the machine, I can throw a lever and the cutterhead gears disengage and it stops spinning. I can then shut the planer down, unplug it, and try to get the stock out. Haven't had a problem with it, though, for which I'm grateful as I don't want to have to take my planer apart to get something unstuck.
And yep, the little key sticking out of the side of the outfeed end unlocks it so you can adjust the outfeed table up or down.

[chads93gt]

I miss stated what i said. I meant can you disengage the cutter head, adjust the height, engage the cutter head without shutting the power off, while its running. AFter i pass a board through, not while its cutting. Im just wondering if I have to plane it, turn it off, disengage the cutterhead, adjust the height, engage the cutterhead, turn it on, run stock through, repeat until desired thickness. Thats what i meant.

[ericolson]

I miss stated what i said. I meant can you disengage the cutter head, adjust the height, engage the cutter head without shutting the power off, while its running. AFter i pass a board through, not while its cutting. Im just wondering if I have to plane it, turn it off, disengage the cutterhead, adjust the height, engage the cutterhead, turn it on, run stock through, repeat until desired thickness. Thats what i meant.

Okay, now it's more clear. Yes, you can do exactly what you're saying. You don't have to keep turning on/off the machine. Glad we got that cleared up.

[berry]

There's a very good article on smoothing rough stock at http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00009.asp
or at least that was the url when I printed it. Also WOOD MAGAZINE Issue 153.

I haven't done too much but I find projects take a LOT longer and you start paying closer attention to the characteristics of the wood.

Have fun!!

[chads93gt]

thanks. That link will come in handy.

I checked my jointers blades last night. when i lowered the table like you said, i barely had the knife on the inside edges touching. but when i put it on the inside it would push up the straight edge quite a bit, so the blades arent level, adn with those chips out of the inside of the blades I think ill opt for some new ones.

My jointer is made by "Jet Equipment and Tools" Jointer Model # JJ-S, made in Taiwan...................go figure