Shopsmith Forums

Hi folks, I have recently completed a floating shelf with the framework constructed with 1 3/4" square pine pocket screwed together. The frame is backed screwed with construction screws. The shelf is constructed with slightly larger pine with a clear pine front. The top/bottom are a laminated 1/4" birch plywood to save some weight.

The frame is anchored to plaster walls with three plastic anchors and two 3/16" toggle bolts. It seems plenty sturdy but I do notice a slight sag in the shelf. I don't want to over tighten things and create a tear out. Maybe is it a function of using the small size frame. Any advice out there? I also considered constructing the next one with a slight bevel cut on the frame to allow for a small deflection.

Post a picture. It will be easier to come up with a solution.
Paul

Plaster wall?

Not dry wall?

I would only anchor a shelf into studs.

I consider 'plastic anchors' to be wishful 'thinking' and 3/16" fasteners to be woefully inadequate.

Please post a pix. The description has no doubt left me with lack of total understanding.

I have a couple of floating shelves in my garage but they are attached to studs. The cheaper ones flex quite a bit if you put anything heavy on them. As long as you are using it in the house to support pictures or knickknacks you should be fine with the toggles.

A floating shelf, assuming its only anchored in the plaster and not a stud, can only be as strong as the plaster or drywall supporting it.

Great video attached on floating shelves and how to properly anchor them. In another video this guy actually loads 150 lbs. of concrete on a short floating shelf.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Avd1TYFknoE

Hi crew, I am having problems posting a picture. Any advice?

mgbbob wrote:Hi crew, I am having problems posting a picture. Any advice?

Try this: https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/comm ... 19246.html

Doing shelving without visible support involves some planning. Hanging it with toggle bolts or anchor screws is a plan for disaster. Eventually someone will either lean on it or put something heavy enough on it to tear it off the wall. Doing it right means a little drywall or plaster work but in the end worth it. It’s a very cool look. The best way is to cut away the plaster/drywall and cripple on a 12” or better piece of 1 1/2” thick hardwood to the existing studs. Before you attach the wood to the studs drill 1/2” holes in them and insert 1/2” steel rod that protrudes out at least half the depth of the shelving from the wall and epoxy it it in. Replaster the wall with the rods sticking out of the wall. Then drill 1/2” holes in the shelving and slide it on over the rods. Having a SS makes drilling all the holes easy. If you are uncomfortable repairing the drywall or plaster ask around and find a plasterer that will come by and do it. A good plaster guy will do it and it will be an invisible patch job and they like quick little side jobs. They are very handy people to know when you own a house.
Paul