10ER Quill Binding

[Chriss]

I'm trying to clean up the headstock on my 10ER that has been sitting unused for about 15 years. When I started working on it last weekend, it took a fair bit of effort to get the quill moving, but I got it to where I could move it in and out. Today I was going to take it all the way out to see about cleaning it up. It moves smoothly but quite tight for the first half of the movement. Past that, it gets a little rough and it sounds like the spring is making some noise, but takes less effort to move it. Then as I get to the position shown in the photo below, it sounds like the spring is binding up or something and the effort to move it goes up considerably till I get to the point I feel like I'm going to break something if I continue to force it. So I've stopped at this point.

I watched a Youtube video about the 10ER quill removal and bearing replacement. So I feel like I'm doing this right. Am I missing something?

[jsburger]

I'm trying to clean up the headstock on my 10ER that has been sitting unused for about 15 years. When I started working on it last weekend, it took a fair bit of effort to get the quill moving, but I got it to where I could move it in and out. Today I was going to take it all the way out to see about cleaning it up. It moves smoothly but quite tight for the first half of the movement. Past that, it gets a little rough and it sounds like the spring is making some noise, but takes less effort to move it. Then as I get to the position shown in the photo below, it sounds like the spring is binding up or something and the effort to move it goes up considerably till I get to the point I feel like I'm going to break something if I continue to force it. So I've stopped at this point.

I watched a Youtube video about the 10ER quill removal and bearing replacement. So I feel like I'm doing this right. Am I missing something?

Just take the quill completely out and clean and polish everything and you should have no problems. The spring is another thing so if there is an issue come back and ask. Remember these are 65+ year old machines. They should be completely disassembled and cleaned at the minimum. I also replace the bearings 100% with the original Fafnir bearings that Magna used. That way you will never have to replace them again if you use cheap Chinese junk.

I clean and polish my quills on my MK 7 but there are other ways.

[Chriss]

Just take the quill completely out and clean and polish everything and you should have no problems. The spring is another thing so if there is an issue come back and ask. Remember these are 65+ year old machines. They should be completely disassembled and cleaned at the minimum. I also replace the bearings 100% with the original Fafnir bearings that Magna used. That way you will never have to replace them again if you use cheap Chinese junk.

I clean and polish my quills on my MK 7 but there are other ways.

Yes, my plan is to completely disassemble the entire thing and clean/polish everything. But, I can't actually get the quill out. It doesn't want to go any further. Are you saying to just keep forcing it?

That's a nice looking cleanup job...

[jsburger]

Just take the quill completely out and clean and polish everything and you should have no problems. The spring is another thing so if there is an issue come back and ask. Remember these are 65+ year old machines. They should be completely disassembled and cleaned at the minimum. I also replace the bearings 100% with the original Fafnir bearings that Magna used. That way you will never have to replace them again if you use cheap Chinese junk.

I clean and polish my quills on my MK 7 but there are other ways.

Yes, my plan is to completely disassemble the entire thing and clean/polish everything. But, I can't actually get the quill out. It doesn't want to go any further. Are you saying to just keep forcing it?

That's a nice looking cleanup job...

No never force anything. Retract the quill so the spring is relaxed and remove the pinion shaft. Maybe the quill teeth have some big crud in them. Also you can remove the head stock an look in the bottom and see the quill teeth.

Thank you. These machines really clean up nicely regardless of the condition you find them in. They were built in a time when things were built with pride and superb workmanship and made to last. That is not true today with most things throw away after a few years.

[Chriss]

Ok, I was about to ask if I could remove the pinion shaft first. I'll give that a try. Looks like I just need to remove the snap ring, then I can start pulling parts (loosening set screws on collars) and pull the shaft out. Correct?

[wa2crk]

Hey John I was wondering if you supported the end of the quill with the tailstock when you were polishing? The setup just looks a bit chancy like the quill might jump out of the chuck.
Bill V

[jsburger]

Ok, I was about to ask if I could remove the pinion shaft first. I'll give that a try. Looks like I just need to remove the snap ring, then I can start pulling parts (loosening set screws on collars) and pull the shaft out. Correct?

Yes.

[jsburger]

Hey John I was wondering if you supported the end of the quill with the tailstock when you were polishing? The setup just looks a bit chancy like the quill might jump out of the chuck.
Bill V

No I didn't. The chuck tightened up very well. HOWEVER, a light hand was used. I didn't think the length of the quill body was long enough to warent the use of the tail stock. However, when I cleaned/polished the table tubes that was a different story. First I didn't use the Nova chuck and the tubes were a lot longer so I used the tail stock.

The arbor on the left was (I think) a 3/4" SS drum sander arbor. On the right is a tapered wood plug I turned and a SS live center.

[Chriss]

Ok, the snap ring is off, various parts off the front side, spring tension released. I can't get the collar off the back side (the one circled below). It's loose. I pulled the set screw out and it appears there may be a burr on the shaft from the set screw. I can move the collar around in all directions, but not far enough to get it to completely clear the markings on the shaft from the set screw, if that makes sense.

Are there any good ways to remove a burr with the only access being in the set screw hole?

[jsburger]

Ok, the snap ring is off, various parts off the front side, spring tension released. I can't get the collar off the back side (the one circled below). It's loose. I pulled the set screw out and it appears there may be a burr on the shaft from the set screw. I can move the collar around in all directions, but not far enough to get it to completely clear the markings on the shaft from the set screw, if that makes sense.

Are there any good ways to remove a burr with the only access being in the set screw hole?

Not that I know. Burs are not a problem nor are set screw dimples. The burs can be removed and the dimples don't affect anything normally. Just try and rotate the collar back and forth and pull on the shaft. That will wear down the bur. and then the collar can be pulled off. The bur is on the shaft so once you get the collar past the bur it will not damage the shaft. Then the bur can be filed down and the shaft cleaned and polished.