Shopsmith Forums

Inherited machine from a relative in pretty good shape, although it has largely sat unused the last 10-15 years.

So, the first thing I did when I saw it was grab the speed dial and run it up and back down without the machine on.

Then I read the manual and realized my mistake.

Got the motor case off so I can oil and check bearings and general operation, when I found the damage to the belt as shown in the photo.



Should I replace it?

The bearings seem to be in good shape. There is plenty of motor noise, but my question is about the slight bit of metal rattle. It goes away at higher speed settings. Just part of these motors, or something that needs to be addressed?

Here it is running at low speed: https://youtu.be/itN3HsBUyJY Couldn't adjust the speed because my other hand was holding the phone.

Resting my hand on it, I feel surprisingly little vibration at any speed.

Lastly, this bearing seems fine, and the grease is still soft enough to easily mush around with a finger tip, but I thought I would throw it up here in case I am overlooking anything.

Noise not unusual.

Leaky bearing likely ok(time will tell).

Belt marks likely from extended no run time.

You likely did no damage since you went up then down.

I think your first order of business is to oil the movable sheaves.

Rattle likely caused by wear of the sheaves/keyway etc.. No action needed until it gets far worse.


Oh welcome!

Awesome, that is good news.

I have already oiled the sheaves, following Jacob Anderson's how-to and 3-in-1 oil for motors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPOfNdYM8j0

Got some rust here and there I want to get halted, but for the most part this thing appears to be in decent shape.

ERWebster wrote:Awesome, that is good news.

I have already oiled the sheaves, following Jacob Anderson's how-to and 3-in-1 oil for motors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPOfNdYM8j0

Got some rust here and there I want to get halted, but for the most part this thing appears to be in decent shape.

Be careful derusting the black oxide parts. Fine steel wool and oil will do nicely.

Are you aware of evaporust and electrolysis?

I used PB Breaker and #1 steel wool on the inside of the housing, seemed to work pretty good. Faint outline of a rust stain left, but with the inhibitors and oil, it should be good for a long while.

I've got the bandsaw table soaking in PB, then I'll go out and scrub it.

I do have concern about taking the steel wool near moving parts, what with it's ability to get into everything. Especially that exposed grease. Was thinking of using PB Blaster sprayed on 800 grit sandpaper for that.

I have never heard of evaporust before. I have heard of electrolysis, did it once on some silver, using detergent, baking soda, and aluminum. Never tried it to remove iron rust.

ERWebster wrote:I used PB Breaker and #1 steel wool on the inside of the housing, seemed to work pretty good. Faint outline of a rust stain left, but with the inhibitors and oil, it should be good for a long while.

I've got the bandsaw table soaking in PB, then I'll go out and scrub it.

I do have concern about taking the steel wool near moving parts, what with it's ability to get into everything. Especially that exposed grease. Was thinking of using PB Blaster sprayed on 800 grit sandpaper for that.

I have never heard of evaporust before. I have heard of electrolysis, did it once on some silver, using detergent, baking soda, and aluminum. Never tried it to remove iron rust.

There is a Scothbrite grit range that compares to 0000 Steel Wool or 000 etc that I am particularly fond of. It doesn’t leave fragments of steel wool behind which I strive to warn folks about with motors and magnetic fields. There I prefer crocus cloth strips in a 800 - 2000 grit range to keep material removal to a minimum on motor or sheave shafts, idler shafts and so on.

In the Large Format Drawing Post under a link titled My Google Drive you will find under the Rust and Paint folder a PDF titled “God Rust?” that covers the spectrum of rust removal techniques and procedures geared to Shopsmith.

Sounds like you have a solid machine to start with and are on the path to making it reliable and in proper alignment.

Everett