Shopsmith Forums

Hi,

my jointer inherited from my father-in-law had dull blades. I took the blades off to sharpen them using the sharpening tool. I end up taking a bit too much and then trying to correct the mistake. It seems the blades are not the exact same height across the length of the blades anymore.

I found the conical sander and device that holds the blades against the fence for sharpening that way. I did try to sharpen. However, I think the height is still not consist. When reinstalling in the jointer and running, jointing isn't very smooth anymore. I did use a straight edge to be sure the blades were set correctly.

Sounds almost "jerky", especially when trying to do the face of a board. I'm guessing this has to do with the blades and I'd be better of buying new blades?

I would try to correct the height using the sharpening tool again, but it was pretty tough to keep the adjustment gauge set correctly.

Just wanted to check here before I purchase new jointer blades.

You'd do yourself a favor by just biting the bullet and getting new blades which I believe you can buy only from Shopsmith (I know of no other source).

The correct blades have a taper that is necessary and is not typical.

I have never tried sharpening my own jointer or planer blades, but using the conical disc and the sharpening jig, I would expect it to work out well if you can hold the blades in position across the length of them. If you can get them completely straight across the cutting edge, they should work well again. The Shopsmith jointer has a nice setup for adjusting the height of the blades using the screws under the blade so a slightly shorter blade should still adjust right and work right.
But, as stated, I've never tried it. I don't have the conical disc or the sharpening jig. I take the easy way out and take them to somebody who has the equipment to do it for me.

Two things I can think of that could be causing you problems. If the blades are not set correctly than you have less cutting edges contacting the wood at the correct height. This can be corrected by resetting the blades in the cutter head. Remember the adjustment screws are used to set the height. The other possible problem is the cutting surface in not even across the blades or the angle is wrong. If you think you need new blades you can order them here on the website.

I use the Planer/Jointer Knife Sharpener (shown below) for sharpening my Planer and all Jointer Knives including the old 2-1/2" Knives from the Model 10 era Jointer Head. Sharpening Jointer Knives on this makes the job very easy. All three knives can be done at the same time since the jig is made to take the 12" Planer knives. It must be used with the Conical Sanding Disk. Unlike most operations with the Conical Sanding Disk you DO NOT tilt the table 4 degrees. This setup gives you the proper bevel angle for the Blades. If you have the Planer/Jointer Knife Sharper but not the instructions you can buy the instructions from SS. Order part number 845274 which is currently $4.95. Sorry this is a current item and SS owns the rights to sell or otherwise distribute the instructions so it would be a copyright infringement for me to make you a copy or post it here.

https://mywoodcutters.com/Replacement_K ... h_Jointer_

$20

RC
Thanks for the link. It is now bookmarked.
Bill V

Before considering aftermarket replacement blades, make sure they are tapered like the factory ones. The last thing you want is to throw a blade up in your face at full rpm.
I don't understand how the carbide blades can be sharpened on 4 sides and you simply turn them 90 degrees to use a new edge. No matter how I turn them 90 degrees in my mind, they won't fit back in the cutter head. Maybe 180 degrees, but not 90.

garys wrote:Before considering aftermarket replacement blades, make sure they are tapered like the factory ones. The last thing you want is to throw a blade up in your face at full rpm.
I don't understand how the carbide blades can be sharpened on 4 sides and you simply turn them 90 degrees to use a new edge. No matter how I turn them 90 degrees in my mind, they won't fit back in the cutter head. Maybe 180 degrees, but not 90.

I think they're talking about the carbide inserts in the Shelix spiral heads -- not the carbide straight jointer knives.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:

garys wrote:Before considering aftermarket replacement blades, make sure they are tapered like the factory ones. The last thing you want is to throw a blade up in your face at full rpm.
I don't understand how the carbide blades can be sharpened on 4 sides and you simply turn them 90 degrees to use a new edge. No matter how I turn them 90 degrees in my mind, they won't fit back in the cutter head. Maybe 180 degrees, but not 90.

I think they're talking about the carbide inserts in the Shelix spiral heads -- not the carbide straight jointer knives.

Actually they are talking about the straight jointer knives. Price has gone up. https://mywoodcutters.com/Carbide_Blade ... h_Jointer_ I have looked at getting a set of the regular knives for awhile. Since they have a place to ask questions on their website, I asked if they have the taper.

thunderbirdbat wrote:

BuckeyeDennis wrote:

garys wrote:Before considering aftermarket replacement blades, make sure they are tapered like the factory ones. The last thing you want is to throw a blade up in your face at full rpm.
I don't understand how the carbide blades can be sharpened on 4 sides and you simply turn them 90 degrees to use a new edge. No matter how I turn them 90 degrees in my mind, they won't fit back in the cutter head. Maybe 180 degrees, but not 90.

I think they're talking about the carbide inserts in the Shelix spiral heads -- not the carbide straight jointer knives.

Actually they are talking about the straight jointer knives. Price has gone up. https://mywoodcutters.com/Carbide_Blade ... h_Jointer_ I have looked at getting a set of the regular knives for awhile. Since they have a place to ask questions on their website, I asked if they have the taper.

Huh?