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Once upon a time there was a pointed rod sticking out from the center of the carriage. There are two positions along the rod that in conjunction with the red button align the saw blade in either the saw blade insert or the additional saw blade slot.

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Thanks redleg,

Actually this Mark VII still has the the point rod sticking out of the carriage.

Not shown in your pix posted is the 'connecting rod' that resembles an arrow that has two grooves that that red thingie engages and serves a purpose similar to the bumper ring on a M5/V, but also locks the carriage to the headstock do they move in tandom. I am not sure what the second groove is for but it might be to set to the second blade slot. The 'arrow' is attached to the table carriage and penetrates the headstock so the red thingie can engage it.

The dayton reversing switch is a PO addon. The voltage is irrelevant. That switch makes more sense with a 3 phase motor.

You are right the rod is positioning and the two grooves in the rod are for the two table slots.

I’m thinking of add this to my collection it a model 10 that my boss bought but never use.
It got stuck in the barn and forgot about. I’m thinking it’s a 10 ER it I could be wrong.

It IS an ER. Wonder how the speed changer worked?????

Used long enough(by somebody) to require replacing the power switch.

Salvageable!

If you look to the left of the serial number you should see Model ER on it. That would make it a Model 10ER. I have never heard the actual reason Magna went from 10E to ER to 10ER on the Serial Number/Logo plate. My best guess has been Magna didn't want to redesign the layout of the plate when they changed from 10E to 10ER. Later they did redesign the Serial Number/Logo Plate which has 10ER on it. Around half of the Model 10ER's have just ER on the plate.

chapmanruss= You where right about the Model ER to the left of serial #. How did I miss that when taking the pictures.

JPG asked

Wonder how the speed changer worked?????

I have to wonder too. It looks like the Speed Changer crank would hit the switch box. Hopefully while restoring it you can go back to an original style switch and get rid of the switch box. Another helpful change when restoring the Speed Changer would be to switch the crank screw anchor lugs to the outboard side to give more clearance from the way tube lock. Later Speed Changers were assembled that way which is shown in the picture below.

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Russ thank for the tip. It looks easy enough to do. Just flip over and good enough to go..