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Well, after doing some research on what I thought was a 10er (thank you Everett Davis for the files on this forum), I believe that this machine is actually a 10e. The primary reason for this to be the case is that the extension table top is made of plywood rather than metal. It would be interesting to know which eastern plant made this if that is indeed the case.

On a related note, I think I should stick to taking pictures with my my camera rather than using the phone.
BPR

ryanbp01 wrote:Well, after doing some research on what I thought was a 10er (thank you Everett Davis for the files on this forum), I believe that this machine is actually a 10e. The primary reason for this to be the case is that the extension table top is made of plywood rather than metal. It would be interesting to know which eastern plant made this if that is indeed the case.

On a related note, I think I should stick to taking pictures with my my camera rather than using the phone.
BPR

Yes, it is a 10E not an ER. Other things besides the extension table are the label says 10E, the morse taper in the tail stock is not adjustable, the stops on the table tilt trunion are 10E, the fence does not have the front (back?) table lock and the saw guard is slotted on the sides.

A nice looking machine in any case. A great find.

It looks like I am going be able to start on my restoration project after getting other things done, like yard work and getting the first batch of leaves raked and burned in the garden. However, I do need to get the headstock off and it seems to be rusted tight to the waytubes. I am going to use penetrating oil to attempt getting the headstock to loosen up. In case it needs more "persuasion", what do you recommend?
BPR

ryanbp01 wrote:It looks like I am going be able to start on my restoration project after getting other things done, like yard work and getting the first batch of leaves raked and burned in the garden. However, I do need to get the headstock off and it seems to be rusted tight to the waytubes. I am going to use penetrating oil to attempt getting the headstock to loosen up. In case it needs more "persuasion", what do you recommend?
BPR

I have had success wicking Evaporust into the joint instead of penetrating oil. Also try loosening the setscrews on the pivot base and the tie bar so that you can work on the way tubes individually. ie rotate, and hit the ends (use a wooden block of course) . Clean up the exposed parts of the tubes first so that when it does start to move it goes onto clean territory

Follow Ron's ideas but to help in getting something into the Headstock holes for the way tubes put in in Drill Press position. You can use the table's carriage locked up against the Headstock to keep it in place in case it "brakes" free. Hopefully the carriage is moving okay on the way tubes. I would recommend removing the Headstock's way tube lock before trying to de-rust the holes. If your locks are brass the chemicals may not hurt them but if they are the alloy ones some chemicals will damage them. I do not know how they react to Evaporust since I have not had any locks I wanted to possibly sacrifice to try it. I do know that alloy parts attached to steel on the Jig Saw are damaged by using vinegar as a rust remover. Soaking parts in vinegar is slower as a rust remover than Evaporust but cheaper. Evaporust will work better for this part removal since it would be hard to soak the Headstock on the way tubes in vinegar. I only mentioned vinegar since I know it can damage alloy parts.

The first lock wedges for the Model 10E's were machined brass but soon changed to cast alloy lock wedges. I do not know if any of the Model 10E's made in the Eastern plant had brass lock wedges.

I know it has been awhile, however after getting other projects out of the way I have started to work on restoring this machine. I have a favor to ask of those who have done this: I need a wiring diagram to show how the headstock is wired to the motor. The cord was cut connecting the motor to the headstock and I am unable to figure out how the power cord is/was connected from the motor to the headstock and to and to the outlet. I looked at what Everett Davis had posted and was wondering if there was something I overlooked.
BPR

the green ground wire can be attached to the headstock ( I do not remember wear)

ryanbp01 wrote: . . . I am unable to figure out how the power cord is/was connected from the motor to the headstock and to and to the outlet. . . .
BPR

Outlet?????

JPG wrote:

ryanbp01 wrote: . . . I am unable to figure out how the power cord is/was connected from the motor to the headstock and to and to the outlet. . . .
BPR

Outlet?????

Wall socket.

ryanbp01 wrote:I know it has been awhile, however after getting other projects out of the way I have started to work on restoring this machine. I have a favor to ask of those who have done this: I need a wiring diagram to show how the headstock is wired to the motor. The cord was cut connecting the motor to the headstock and I am unable to figure out how the power cord is/was connected from the motor to the headstock and to and to the outlet. I looked at what Everett Davis had posted and was wondering if there was something I overlooked.
BPR

The thread in this link covers the rewiring in detail, should answer all your questions.
https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/main ... 22280.html