Shopsmith Forums

I have a 1-1/8 HP 1989 powerhead on what used to be 1955 Greenie. I was trying to use the table saw to cut some hickory boards to make threshold plate for the floors. The saw started to bog down so I backed up and reduced the height of the cut. After several bogs, it tripped the circuit several times, and now won't start up. Apparently there's no thermal overload on SS to reset. Am I screwed?

I do not know about the screw part, but the motor does NOT have an internal overload interrupter.

Can a thermal overload protection be added if I get another motor?

The first thing I would do is unplug it, pull the side cover, and measure resistance across the power switch. If it was switched off and on under heavy load, the contacts could simply be burned enough so they no longer supply power to the motor.
If you find that the motor isn't getting power, the switch is bad. If you find power through to the motor, then the motor has issues.

Won’t start is also an issue if the centrifugal motor switch is obstructed by some debris preventing it closing when it spins down. In that case the motor will hum but not start.

A good cleaning (with power unplugged) and end of motor end bell cleaned may be all you need.

You can see how free the motor bearings turn before you get it disassembled

If not burned up a fellow on eBay can rebuild your motor If beyond your knowledge. His handle is Simon-e as I recall.

Power cord condition, switch etc should be inspected

I use a mechanically sound and tight electrical outlet, dedicated circuit if available.

Waxing table, cleaning and waxing blades help cutting power through hard woods.

GE motors had a problem with wires leads inside the motor getting brittle

They can be replaced by someone who repairs motors

Good luck!

Everett

One thing to remember is these motors are made specifically for the Shopsmith and their mounting needs. Over the years motors have been supplied by G.E., Franklin and A.O. Smith. As Everett suggested you could check with simon_e on ebay, he is in Southern California or a local motor repair shop if you cannot resolve the problem yourself. Do try cleaning it out first and checking the power connections as suggested above.

I FOUND A COMPANY TO PURCHASE A NEW (STATIONARY SWITCH). THAT IS THE INTERNAL SWITCH THAT STARTS THE MOTOR.
THE COMPANY IS (IES), THE ID # IS ,FR-2021B.I ORDERED ONE TODAY.THEI'R SHIPPING IS A LITTLE HIGH BUT THE TOTAL COST IS AROUND $70 DOLLARS. HOPE THIS HELPS

MINE IS AN EMERSON MOTOR 1 1/8 HP

Do all the tests suggested here. What are your current symptoms?
1. Does the motor still trip the breaker?
Likely a bad motor
2. Is the motor dead when you try to switch it on?
Likely the power switch on the head
3. Does the motor hum when attempting to start?
Likely the internal start switch or the start capacitor

Last week I was in the middle of a project and mine failed to start when switched on. It simply hummed. Luckily, I have a spare headstock so I just switched headstocks and finished the project.

Today I took the failed motor apart and cleaned it. Once I did that, it ran again, so the problem was sawdust in the start switch so it couldn't close properly. I cleaned and vacuumed everything I could see and reassembled it, and it works again. So, my spare is back in the box waiting for the next time.

And, yes, the spring on the motor sheave is always fun.