Shopsmith Forums

I'm hoping someone on the Forum can help me with a bandsaw tracking problem. I have had my bandsaw for more than 10 years and have never had a minutes trouble with the tracking (purchased new in 1996). In that 14 years I have always used 1/4" and 1/8" blades. Recently I needed to do some resewing and so switched to a 1/2" blade. Since then it has been nothing but problems -- the blades works its way off the upper wheel in a matter of 5-10 rotations.
The manual mentions that when switching from a 1/2" blade to narrower blades it may be necessary to manipulate the upper wheel by simultaneously pushing in at the top and pulling out at the bottom to release "tension" that has built up from running a wide blade.

I tried that manipulation with no success. I also tried the reverse (pulling at the top and pushing at the bottom). No matter what I do the upper wheel throws the blade. When I go back to a narrower blade things work just fine.

Has anyone else had this problem? If so, has anyone found a solution?

Thanks.

-Erik

I am sure the real smart ones here will be able to help you figure this out. The first question I would have is- what is the new blade you are using? Is it a Shopsmith brand or some other? Do you have another 1/2 blade to try? This blade length cut be slightly off.

#1, what do you consider correct tracking to be? Regardless of the blade size, the spine of the blade should ride about 1/4" from the back EDGE of the wheel.

Good question re blade length. If not 72" ± 1/2" all bets are off.

This has the attributes of insufficient cant of the upper wheel. An earlier 'test' for correct tracking/cant is to place a straight edge against the upper wheel spanning top to bottom, and observing how far from the lower wheel the extended end of the straight edge clears the lower wheel top. About 1/4" was thought necessary.

If it does not, the cant angle is insufficient. Push top/pull bottom is a method for correcting, but creates the possibility of bending the wheel. Sufficient force need to be applied so as to 'twist' the arm upon which the upper wheel shaft is located. A better method is to the remove the wheel, slip a pipe over the shaft and apply the torque upward with the pipe. Key word there is torque!

The straight edge 'test' can be used to check for effect.

The reason the 1/2" blade is slipping off whereas the smaller blades are not is that the increased tension required for the larger blade is torquing the arm and reducing the effective cant.

P.S. Leaving the blade tensioned when the saw is not being used for extended periods of time can cause the arm to twist and reduce the cant angle.

Hi Stew & JPG,

Thank you so much for the advice! I think I was too timid when I did my initial push-pull of the upper wheel: after reading your suggestions I measured the cant at about 1/8". I just gave the upper wheel a more forceful push-pull and now the offset is appproaching a 1/4". More importantly, the 1/2" blade now tracks perfectly.

As for my blade, I picked up 3 new "Premium" Shopsmith blades last year when they were on sale. The 1/2" blade is from that purchase.

I appreciate the good advice. I'm using the bandsaw to resaw 2" maple into thinner boards for making 3D-tumbling-block cutting boards. I made one before Christmas and it turned out really well. I thought I would go ahead and make a couple more while I wait for the Coronavirus to settle down.

Cheers,

-Erik

As JPG said,

P.S. Leaving the blade tensioned when the saw is not being used for extended periods of time can cause the arm to twist and reduce the cant angle.

Another thing to watch is over tensioning the blade. That force has to go somewhere. Remember the tension indicator is adjustable by loosing the screw just below the pivot shaft. If it is out of adjustment you can be over or under tensioning the blade.

chapmanruss wrote:

If it is out of adjustment you can be over or under tensioning the blade.

How wood ya know it's out of adjustment?

beeg wrote:

chapmanruss wrote:As JPG said,

If it is out of adjustment you can be over or under tensioning the blade.

How wood ya know it's out of adjustment?

"JPG" did NOT say THAT!
However the back edges of the overlaying piece(with the scale) should be even with the back edge of the spring bar at rest.

JPG, thanks for adding the adjustment information since I only stated a problem. Bad on me especially since I just reassembled, a couple of days ago, a 1956 (est.) Band Saw that I restored.

Don't you just hate it when things are "edited" incorrectly. It's like being quoted on the news.

chapmanruss wrote:JPG, thanks for adding the adjustment information since I only stated a problem. Bad on me especially since I just reassembled, a couple of days ago, a 1956 (est.) Band Saw that I restored.

Don't you just hate it when things are "edited" incorrectly. It's like being quoted on the news.

Missing or inaccurate context is the gremlin. I was responding to Beeg's question.

My wheels are properly aligned using a straight edge and the back of my saw blade touches the auto-track roller bearing (as directed) BUT....

1. The saw blade aligns to the middle of each wheel
2. The saw blade does NOT touch the back of the "lower blade Guide Roller bearing (as directed) the back of the blade sits about 1/8 in front of the guide roller. Since the front / back of the roller is not adjustable, I am not sure what to do next.

The tires are in great shape.

Todd