I am a bit unsure of this, but is not the nylon piece in the gilmer quill merely a dust cap?(or is that the model 10?)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
the piece is smooth on the inside, at both ends, so it is not "driving" anything. It may very well just be a "dust preventer" or "alignment assistant"....if anyone knows for sure, that would help me determine how I should proceed.
jadamowicz wrote:the piece is smooth on the inside, at both ends, so it is not "driving" anything. It may very well just be a "dust preventer" or "alignment assistant"....if anyone knows for sure, that would help me determine how I should proceed.
thank you!
Now that the model 10 has been eliminated, it fer sure is only a dust cap.
Broken? post a pix of the pieces. Maybe cya glue will be thy solution.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I would degunk it, wash with alcohol, then sparingly attempt to cya glue the cracks back together.
THEN using strips of heavy duty alumunum foil, glue the foil tight to the outside with glue between the layers of a spiral wrap.
May work.
Use acetone to get the glue off thy fingers.
Ya cannot hurt it much further.
If all fails. simply leave it off.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
You can run your Mark 5 without it. It is the Nylon Collar added to the Drive Sleeve about the time of the change to the "B" Headstock. It is Part Number B3408 and was listed in the 10-55 Manual's parts list but not shown in the exploded parts diagram until the 10-56 Manual.
In the 1974 Supplement to the Mark V Parts List it was explained as follows
In 1959, a nylon cap (3408) was added to the end of the (202100) Drive Sleeve Assembly. This was primarily a noise suppressor and did not materially change the mechanical operations.
Some of the changes by date were not always correct.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
I am wondering if a piece of heat shrink tubing would work to hold it together. Preferably the dual walled adhesive lined type.
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,