My Growth Rings with Scott Markwood

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bainin
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Re: Scott's My Growth Rings youtube channel & website

Post by bainin »

Great video's Scott-thank you.


One thing that I think could be done with the miter slot to get square miter cuts-

after doing the fence alignment offset, then put a known square edge board on
the miter gauge and then adjust the miter gauge angle until it is flush with the fence.

The gauge offset should then match the fence offset--

b
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JPG
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Re: Scott's My Growth Rings youtube channel & website

Post by JPG »

bainin wrote:Great video's Scott-thank you.


One thing that I think could be done with the miter slot to get square miter cuts-

after doing the fence alignment offset, then put a known square edge board on
the miter gauge and then adjust the miter gauge angle until it is flush with the fence.

The gauge offset should then match the fence offset--

b
The miter gauge would ONLY be calibrated for use with that bandsaw(and that blade?)(or stop not set to match).
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E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
DLB
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Re: Scott's My Growth Rings youtube channel & website

Post by DLB »

bainin wrote:after doing the fence alignment offset, then put a known square edge board on the miter gauge and then adjust the miter gauge angle until it is flush with the fence.
I don't think that will work but I'm going to have a hard time explaining it without a drawing. The key is the workpiece needs to move through the blade at the drift angle. With the miter gauge, the work moves through the blade following the angle of the T-slot (slot, on cast iron tables). If you can picture the operation with a wide board, I think this will make sense. Say you set the miter gauge for 4 degrees in an attempt to offset for drift angle. You will end up just cutting a 4 degree miter, and still fighting the drift.

It's the same thing, or maybe the other side of the coin, that you ran into with a taper guide.

- David
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JPG
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Re: Scott's My Growth Rings youtube channel & website

Post by JPG »

DLB wrote:
bainin wrote:after doing the fence alignment offset, then put a known square edge board on the miter gauge and then adjust the miter gauge angle until it is flush with the fence.
I don't think that will work but I'm going to have a hard time explaining it without a drawing. The key is the workpiece needs to move through the blade at the drift angle. With the miter gauge, the work moves through the blade following the angle of the T-slot (slot, on cast iron tables). If you can picture the operation with a wide board, I think this will make sense. Say you set the miter gauge for 4 degrees in an attempt to offset for drift angle. You will end up just cutting a 4 degree miter, and still fighting the drift.

It's the same thing, or maybe the other side of the coin, that you ran into with a taper guide.

- David
YUP!!! I missed that (pesky detail).

I had not thought about the 'skew' but with the beveled wheel , the blade has to be off from the expected angle by about 2°. About 1/2" over 15". Too much to move table on trunion. And that is before blade 'drift'.



Gotta think this out!!!!
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thedovetailjoint
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Re: Scott's My Growth Rings youtube channel & website

Post by thedovetailjoint »

bainin wrote:One thing that I think could be done with the miter slot to get square miter cuts- after doing the fence alignment offset, then put a known square edge board on the miter gauge and then adjust the miter gauge angle until it is flush with the fence. The gauge offset should then match the fence offset--

b
I totally agree that doing that step would help. Eventually I will do an all-inclusive alignment video and will be sure to mention that step. There’s just so much to say! Thanks for watching and commenting. Scott
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Re: Scott's My Growth Rings youtube channel & website

Post by RonKlein »

I don't think that blade drift is a significant problem when cutting cross grain. so I wouldn't worry about trying to compensate for it when using the miter gauge.
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Re: Scott's My Growth Rings youtube channel & website

Post by DLB »

thedovetailjoint wrote:I totally agree that doing that step would help.
Hmm, interesting. Perhaps I'm not interpreting bainin's description correctly. I'm happy to go out to the shop, rip a board to measure drift and then saw the end off, but I'm pretty sure how I set that up would be biased by any misinterpretation I've made.

- David
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JPG
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Re: Scott's My Growth Rings youtube channel & website

Post by JPG »

OK, my thinking session has completed.

There are three factors that make getting square cuts using the miter gauge iffy.

Nominal blade orientation to the miter slot not parallel to the slot due to wheel bevel.

Individual blade drift.

Assuming the drift does not cancel out the blade orientation, the direction of travel(parallel to the miter gauge slot) is not what is required to accomplish a square end cut.

Lotta nits adding up.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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BuckeyeDennis
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Re: Scott's My Growth Rings youtube channel & website

Post by BuckeyeDennis »

JPG wrote:OK, my thinking session has completed.

There are three factors that make getting square cuts using the miter gauge iffy.

Nominal blade orientation to the miter slot not parallel to the slot due to wheel bevel.

Individual blade drift.

Assuming the drift does not cancel out the blade orientation, the direction of travel(parallel to the miter gauge slot) is not what is required to accomplish a square end cut.

Lotta nits adding up.
Keep in mind that the business edge of a bandsaw blade is wider than its back edge, due to the tooth set. So a slight misalignment between the blade body and the miter slot won't generally cause the workpiece to contact the side of the blade. Quite unlike a circular saw blade.

I'd argue that any cut-line deviation from parallel to the miter slot results from just two main factors:
1) the lateral force that the teeth generate when cutting (which may or may not be a strong function of blade orientation), and
2) the lateral stiffness of the blade & guides.

Once the lateral tooth force and the opposing blade-guide force is in balance, the cut line should stay parallel to the miter slot (assuming a consistent feed rate and workpiece material properties). But before that happens, there may be some "snipe" at the entry to the cut.
bainin
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Re: Scott's My Growth Rings youtube channel & website

Post by bainin »

I thought I had posted another question to the informed audience here-but I don't see it, or any answer to it...so I will ask again. Perhaps I dreamt it :)


On freehanding a board to determine the bandsaw drift, I'm always wondering if using a thin, soft piece of pine 2x4 affects the actual drift observed?

Normally-I do this step as above, then switch to resaw mode on something like 5" thick maple. Very different thickness/hardness than my setup board.

So- does the wood thickness/hardness affect drift? I haven't seen it mentioned in the short lists on causes of drift.


b
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