New Shop- have a door question.

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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

backhertz wrote:Thanks guys. I should probably explain a little more. I'll have a set of double doors on the rear right side of the shop. I am trying to separate the rear of of what was only a single car garage from the work shop which could be considered a second car garage on the first one. I would like to keep the dust & chips in one area for the cheapest cost. I want to be able to use an insulated type of door being I will have an air conditioner to keep the shop cool.
Below is an depiction of the garage (g) & shop (s). d= front door location. ?= rear door location. D=rear double door.

ggdddddgg
g.............g
g.............g
g.............g
g.............g
g.............g
g.............g
g ????????g
s.............s
s.............s
D............s
D............s
s.............s
s.............s
s.............s
sssssssssss
I understood your situation before. All of the suggestions that I made are interior door applications, although some can be used as exterior doors as well. If you want an insulated door, I wood recommend an insulated version of the glass sliding door.:) None of the other doors that I suggested, and other members reinforced, will seal as well, except for regular hinged solid core doors.
Tim

Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
charlese
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Post by charlese »

Now that I see your diagram - Since it sounds that you have ample room to remove finished projects through your shop's outside (side) door, I recommend a small walk-through door, placed in a corner. I think they still make two foot wide doors. You can buy a hollow core door and add Styrofoam to both sides for sound insulation.

G G
G G
Gdd?????
S S
S S

This way you could mount a T.V. in the corner, above the door.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
iclark
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Post by iclark »

based on my father's garage, if you take Chuck's suggestion and go with a single door in the corner, I would move it out of the corner far enough so that you don't lose the storage/counter options on the long wall.

the key question that I don't see answered in your posting is: what do you plan to use this door for?

looking at your ascii sketch, it looks like the only entrances to the original garage is the front roll-up door and this new roll-up door into the workshop. there is no door into the house. the 2 ways into the shop are through the double doors on the side or through 2 roll-up doors. if the ???? door provides routine shop access, then you don't want to lose all your air conditioning (or heat) every time you go in or out. you might want to consider an airplane hanger / barn trick of a single door with a raised threshold embedded in a larger door. you could then side-hinge the larger door, treat it as an old-fashioned solid garage door with tracks, or top hinge it and crank it up against the garage roof with a pulley system when you need to open it. you could get a similar compromise by putting a bi-fold door on one side of the opening that rarely opens and a single door hinged to the other side of the doorway that latches against the edge of the bi-fold.

an additional approach that I haven't seen mentioned in this thread is the loading-dock plastic-strip door/barrier. last time I looked they were rather pricey but they don't use up much space (no ceiling or floor space beyond the doorway) and they are easy access. if you have a source of really heavy flexible plastic, one could probably build one as a workshop project
;)
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
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ryanbp01
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Post by ryanbp01 »

How much modification would you need to do in order to install pocket doors? Just a thought.

BPR
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grouser
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Post by grouser »

For my garage door I needed one tht was insulated, did'nt block lighting when raised and was cheap. Difficult to find all that at the outlet store so I came up with this,,, I built a vertical wood sectional door myself. Each section is removable and built with 2x6 framing material, so insulation is no problem. Each section is about 16 inches wide and has a cleat on the bottom that matches a 1x2 strip I bolted to the floor. The top is help in by a tight fit and bungee cord streched the entire width, but a little more secure would be a long board or pipe sitting in brackets with a lock on it. The sections go in and out one at a time so I can make the door as big as I need. I admit it's not TOTALLY user friendly, it's a little heavy for my wife to move the sections. But it does do all the things I needed it to do and was very cheap for me. Can post pictures if you like when I get home from work.
Mike, Northern Ca.
:D Just an old logger trying to keep his feet covered in wood chips
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