Shopsmith Forums

The rip fence is a 10E version with the rear clamp/mortising hole upgrade. Yes it originally used the wooden aux table.

Since your Shopsmith was upgraded to the Metal Extension Table I would expect it to have the Fence with the rear lock built in too. Having the original wood extension table parts it makes sense you have the fence for the wood extension table. With both fences you wouldn't need the add on lock. Of course that would be true if the upgrade kit was used for this Model 10 instead of piecing together the Metal extension table parts to upgrade it. Having the fence you do with the rear lock add on gives you a rarer fence set up since that rear lock add on is not very common. Because yours is a demonstrator it is likely that fence was kept to show the add on rear fence lock and a nice bonus it still has the wood extension table too.

Some more pictures of progress Speed changer torn down repainted speed changer close up of changer old fences and ex table Rear lock finished another pic headstock and other pictures All for now working on motor and an new cords (plug ins) DO Weaver INDY

Coming along very nicely.
re the speed changer, If you mount the crank assembly to the left of the "ears", instead of to the right, it will give you more clearance between the crank handle and the headstock lock lever.
Early ones were shipped the way you have it assemble, but later ones to the other side.

Ron: I had it that way at first, and everything seems real close. the adjustment screw between the changer and headstock seem to be to short for this purpose . and on this ER. all is much smoother . It took me awhile to find this but on page 11 in my ass. catalog ,or owners manual. this was the correct way ? DOWeaver INDY

DOWeaver wrote: ↑Sat Nov 28, 2020 3:26 pm Ron: I had it that way at first, and everything seems real close. the adjustment screw between the changer and headstock seem to be to short for this purpose . and on this ER. all is much smoother . It took me awhile to find this but on page 11 in my ass. catalog ,or owners manual. this was the correct way ? DOWeaver INDY

I am not sure what that means. However, Ron is correct. There were two versions of the instructions for the speed changer. The early one shows the adjustment crank on the head stock side and the later one shows it on the side away from the head stock.

There is no difference in the speed changer itself. It will work equally well either way. The difference is there is no interference with the crank and head stock lock with the crank to the left.

Attached are both instruction manuals. The first is the early one with the crank to the right. The second one is the later one dated 1953 with the crank to the left.

I took my placement of the crank handle from the picture of the speedchanger in the owners guide on page 22 Sorry for the wrong page number before. sometimes i get ahead of my self on wanting to post when i have new pictures. I will do better I have three more to work on DOWeaver INDY

It is coming along nicely. Looks great with your paint scheme. It makes me reconsider the original gray color but I tend to be a traditionalist.

As for the Speed Changer consider Ron and John's comments about the screw assembly location. In operation having it away from the headstock side will not interfere with the speed adjustments even though the one picture you posted would have the pulley arm hitting it. In operation the pulley arm will not go that high and the early scale you have 0-8 was replaced buy a 0-5 scale since that is all the further it goes on either one for proper use. It looks like the floating pulley assembly still needs to have the width between the sheaves set as they appear a little wide still.

If you are going to use the wood extension table and tailstock than I recommend putting washers under the wing nuts as is OEM to hold the bracket in place better.

Another interesting thing I have noticed in the recent pictures is your upper blade guard being the 3rd/last and less common version.

Looking forward to the next update.

IIUC you have the 0-8 speed changer, but with a 0-5 sliding sheave.

FWIW the 0-5 version calibration is the same as the 0-5 on the 0-8 version.

P.S. When possible, I always use a flat washer under nuts that secure sliding parts.

To Do List
1. Change speed changer to left side of ears. TY
2. Put on upper safety cover , older one with with lip around edges .TY (clean and paint)
3. ? What is the difference of the sliding sheave from 0/5 or 0/8 . speed changer
Not sure what i'm going to use as far as tail stock and extension,, maybe used as desplay (the wooden one) Thinking about useing #24616 as drill press. Would you take apart the wall to install extra stud support ? A little nervous hanging weight on wall.
JSB The screw I was talking about is the one to adjust the distance between changer and headstock .(all will be OK because the sheaves wont go that low or high ) TY ALL I thought this was going to be so easy. Really not that bad . TY DOWeaver Indy