Hi every one;
I recently purchased the sharpening guide and have attempted to sharpen 12" planer knives and 6" jointer knives. I was careful to put equal pressure on the fence and table top with the guide to make sure it was fed into the conj. disc in a straight maner. However, the ends of each knife had more metal removed than did the center of the knives. Each end is now slightly rounded for a distance of about 1/4" to 3/8". The rest of each knife is straight and true.
Can somebody tell me where I might have gone wronge?
jointer/planer knife sharpening guide
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s.henderson
- Silver Member
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:55 am
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s.henderson
- Silver Member
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:55 am
jointer/planer knife sharpening guide
Hi Hal;
Thanks for the reply. The differance in measurement of the width at the ends of the blade compared to the center of the blade is 0.5 mm not a big difference. But just to eyeball the blade, it looks realy bad. I had considered sharpening the knives for a little extra pocket change ( to buy more assess. for the ShopSmith). But I would realy like to get this problem corrected first.
Regards; Scott
Thanks for the reply. The differance in measurement of the width at the ends of the blade compared to the center of the blade is 0.5 mm not a big difference. But just to eyeball the blade, it looks realy bad. I had considered sharpening the knives for a little extra pocket change ( to buy more assess. for the ShopSmith). But I would realy like to get this problem corrected first.
Regards; Scott
try featherboards?
Hi, Scott- I haven't used that sharpening accessory yet, but I was having a similar problem when using the conical sanding disk to sand the edges of pieces of plywood. It would take off a bit extra on the leading and trailing edges of the board. I think the problem was my technique- I wasn't holding the board against the fence at the beginning and end of the cut with the same pressure that the disk was holding it against the fence in the middle of the cut. (Did that make any sense at all?)
Anyway, I solved my problem by using the conical disk up though the center of the table (with the insert removed), and using featherboards in the left-hand miter slot, both on the infeed and outfeed sides of the disc. The featherboards prevented me from letting the board "sag" at the beginning and end of the cut. And I could concentrate on just pushing the board through, instead of having to hold it against the fence as well.
Does the sharpening attachment have a flat surface that featherboards could push against?
Gary
Anyway, I solved my problem by using the conical disk up though the center of the table (with the insert removed), and using featherboards in the left-hand miter slot, both on the infeed and outfeed sides of the disc. The featherboards prevented me from letting the board "sag" at the beginning and end of the cut. And I could concentrate on just pushing the board through, instead of having to hold it against the fence as well.
Does the sharpening attachment have a flat surface that featherboards could push against?
Gary
I have only used mine once to sharpen my 4" jointer blades, with no problems. However, I can imagine that with longer blades it could be easy to rock the ends out a little unless you are real careful. Unless you can tell that the guide is defective, then I would have to agree with the earlier post that said it's probably technique. So as not to ruin the knives further, can you find a strip of metal to practice with? Also, although I don't think this is your problem, for anyone reading this that has a sharpening guide, remember that the table must be tilted 4 degrees left for the conical sanding disk to work correctly. That goes for sharpening and sanding.
Jointer/Planer Knife Sharpening Guide
I haven't seen the Shopsmith guide, but I know that on my knife grinder, I have to ensure that the knife is flat when clamped in the fixture to avoid these symptoms. Dirt ,sawdust etc between the knife & the fixture clamping surfaces will cause the knife to be bowed somewhat, affecting the sharpening geometry.
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s.henderson
- Silver Member
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- Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:55 am
sharpening guide
What a great response. I really appreciate the advice and ideas.
The fence must be used, not feather boards. The guide is about 12" long with three replaceable plastic inserts on it's back side that run up against the fence. There is always at least two plastic discs in contact at any one time and of couse all three when the guide is in the center of the table. I was wondering if these discs may be of slightly differant thicknesses.
Also the table is to be left level according to the instuctions. This puts a 4 degree secondary bevel on the cutting edge of the knife. But to be honest, I did tilt the table 4 degrees in order to regrind the cutting edge to remove a nick caused by hitting a nail in a board, nasty nails!!.
I also wondered if I might have had the guide too close to the disc. The edges would be sanded down but the middle of the knife might have ridden up in the disc.
As I mentioned before, it is only 0.5 mm off. I think I will get my hands on some steel to practice with as batg4 had sudjested. I will also use the vernier calipers to measure the width of the guide at each plastic disc location, from front side to back ( those of you with one will know what I mean by this)
By the way Hal it is definately worth getting this guide. It is not expensive but it can save time and money to have your knives sharpened. Even if you already sharpen them yourself, I cannot imagin a faster way. It does not take a lot of set up time, and once set up, it only takes a few passes.
Thanks guys I am going to take some measurements and practice some more.
Regards; Scott
The fence must be used, not feather boards. The guide is about 12" long with three replaceable plastic inserts on it's back side that run up against the fence. There is always at least two plastic discs in contact at any one time and of couse all three when the guide is in the center of the table. I was wondering if these discs may be of slightly differant thicknesses.
Also the table is to be left level according to the instuctions. This puts a 4 degree secondary bevel on the cutting edge of the knife. But to be honest, I did tilt the table 4 degrees in order to regrind the cutting edge to remove a nick caused by hitting a nail in a board, nasty nails!!.
I also wondered if I might have had the guide too close to the disc. The edges would be sanded down but the middle of the knife might have ridden up in the disc.
As I mentioned before, it is only 0.5 mm off. I think I will get my hands on some steel to practice with as batg4 had sudjested. I will also use the vernier calipers to measure the width of the guide at each plastic disc location, from front side to back ( those of you with one will know what I mean by this)
By the way Hal it is definately worth getting this guide. It is not expensive but it can save time and money to have your knives sharpened. Even if you already sharpen them yourself, I cannot imagin a faster way. It does not take a lot of set up time, and once set up, it only takes a few passes.
Thanks guys I am going to take some measurements and practice some more.
Regards; Scott
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s.henderson
- Silver Member
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:55 am
sharpening guide
What a great response. I really appreciate the advice and ideas.
The fence must be used, not feather boards. The guide is about 12" long with three replaceable plastic inserts on it's back side that run up against the fence. There is always at least two plastic discs in contact at any one time and of couse all three when the guide is in the center of the table. I was wondering if these discs may be of slightly differant thicknesses.
Also the table is to be left level according to the instuctions. This puts a 4 degree secondary bevel on the cutting edge of the knife. But to be honest, I did tilt the table 4 degrees in order to regrind the cutting edge to remove a nick caused by hitting a nail in a board, nasty nails!!.
I also wondered if I might have had the guide too close to the disc. The edges would be sanded down but the middle of the knife might have ridden up in the disc.
As I mentioned before, it is only 0.5 mm off. I think I will get my hands on some steel to practice with as batg4 had sudjested. I will also use the vernier calipers to measure the width of the guide at each plastic disc location, from front side to back ( those of you with one will know what I mean by this)
By the way Hal it is definately worth getting this guide. It is not expensive but it can save time and money to have your knives sharpened. Even if you already sharpen them yourself, I cannot imagin a faster way. It does not take a lot of set up time, and once set up, it only takes a few passes.
Thanks guys I am going to take some measurements and practice some more.
Regards; Scott
The fence must be used, not feather boards. The guide is about 12" long with three replaceable plastic inserts on it's back side that run up against the fence. There is always at least two plastic discs in contact at any one time and of couse all three when the guide is in the center of the table. I was wondering if these discs may be of slightly differant thicknesses.
Also the table is to be left level according to the instuctions. This puts a 4 degree secondary bevel on the cutting edge of the knife. But to be honest, I did tilt the table 4 degrees in order to regrind the cutting edge to remove a nick caused by hitting a nail in a board, nasty nails!!.
I also wondered if I might have had the guide too close to the disc. The edges would be sanded down but the middle of the knife might have ridden up in the disc.
As I mentioned before, it is only 0.5 mm off. I think I will get my hands on some steel to practice with as batg4 had sudjested. I will also use the vernier calipers to measure the width of the guide at each plastic disc location, from front side to back ( those of you with one will know what I mean by this)
By the way Hal it is definately worth getting this guide. It is not expensive but it can save time and money to have your knives sharpened. Even if you already sharpen them yourself, I cannot imagin a faster way. It does not take a lot of set up time, and once set up, it only takes a few passes.
Thanks guys I am going to take some measurements and practice some more.
Regards; Scott
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dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21371
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
jointer/planer knife sharpening guide
I don't have the experience that you all have with the guide but as I read this thread I remember something that was said at Traveling Academy.
Rick, the instructor, recommended that sharpening (with the guide) be done with the main table moved clear to the right side of the Shopsmith allowing the operator to move to the end. This made possible a long uninterrupted sweep of the blade across the conical disc while at all times firmly pulling the guide (that's why it has two handles) against the fence and across the conical disc.
The wide arc sweeping motion with constant pressure pulling toward the fence seemed to be the secret to the technique.
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Making Sawdust Safely
Rick, the instructor, recommended that sharpening (with the guide) be done with the main table moved clear to the right side of the Shopsmith allowing the operator to move to the end. This made possible a long uninterrupted sweep of the blade across the conical disc while at all times firmly pulling the guide (that's why it has two handles) against the fence and across the conical disc.
The wide arc sweeping motion with constant pressure pulling toward the fence seemed to be the secret to the technique.
___________________
Making Sawdust Safely
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s.henderson
- Silver Member
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:55 am
sharpening guide
Hi dustywooworker;
You are right about the positioning of the table and your stance at the and of the ShopSmith. This was my tecnique. It allows one single motion across the disc. I will keep practicing and let you all know what I have found to be my wronge doing.
I am just wondering what I am going to do with a bunch of 8-12 in. long pieces of flat steel sharpened to a keen edge. Do you suppose I could use them as scrapers? Maybe I could rip some hardwood strips and practice on them.
You all have a great weekend.
Regards; Scott
You are right about the positioning of the table and your stance at the and of the ShopSmith. This was my tecnique. It allows one single motion across the disc. I will keep practicing and let you all know what I have found to be my wronge doing.
I am just wondering what I am going to do with a bunch of 8-12 in. long pieces of flat steel sharpened to a keen edge. Do you suppose I could use them as scrapers? Maybe I could rip some hardwood strips and practice on them.
You all have a great weekend.
Regards; Scott