Chessboard
Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 10:42 am
My daughter and her boyfriend have gotten into chess big time. For Xmas she is giving him a fancy House of Staunton set of of chess pieces but, to save $$, I volunteered to make the board. The project is relatively easy and fun.
After jointing and planing stock in two contrasting species, set your rip fence to your preferred square size (mine are 2.25") and rip 4 dark and 4 light strips to width. Leave your rip fence where you set it while you glue up the strips into a zebra (alternating) dark/light pattern. I used the Shopsmith double bar clamps for that.
After the glue is dry, get one of the edges that's 90 degrees to the direction the strips are running nice and square to the direction of the stripes. This will be your reference edge (I used a track saw) and then go back to your table saw and and using the same rip fence setting as before, put your reference edge against the fence and rip your board into 8 strips -- making sure you are cutting across rather than with the zebra stripe pattern. Assemble your strips back in the order you cut them and the rotate every other strip, and voila, you have alternating light and dark squares. Glue it up again and you are done except for the final sanding and finish.
Mine is made from maple and what I believe is bubinga (donated by a brother in law some years ago). It came out ok. During final glue up a couple of piece got off set a fraction -- perhaps 1/64th to 1/128th of an inch so if you stare at some of the corners where those squares meet, it isn't perfect. I also ended up with a slight arch in the center of the board despite using the Shopsmith double bar clamps. At over 17 inches wide, I don't have any practical way to plane this flat (I'm terrible with hand planes and so I'm going to live with it. With the arch up the board sits flat and doesn't rock and the arch isn't pronounced.
Here it is sanded but not yet finished.
It will get some varnish.
I'd like to put either felt or flocking on the bottom of the board. Anyone have any recommendations on how to do that?
After jointing and planing stock in two contrasting species, set your rip fence to your preferred square size (mine are 2.25") and rip 4 dark and 4 light strips to width. Leave your rip fence where you set it while you glue up the strips into a zebra (alternating) dark/light pattern. I used the Shopsmith double bar clamps for that.
After the glue is dry, get one of the edges that's 90 degrees to the direction the strips are running nice and square to the direction of the stripes. This will be your reference edge (I used a track saw) and then go back to your table saw and and using the same rip fence setting as before, put your reference edge against the fence and rip your board into 8 strips -- making sure you are cutting across rather than with the zebra stripe pattern. Assemble your strips back in the order you cut them and the rotate every other strip, and voila, you have alternating light and dark squares. Glue it up again and you are done except for the final sanding and finish.
Mine is made from maple and what I believe is bubinga (donated by a brother in law some years ago). It came out ok. During final glue up a couple of piece got off set a fraction -- perhaps 1/64th to 1/128th of an inch so if you stare at some of the corners where those squares meet, it isn't perfect. I also ended up with a slight arch in the center of the board despite using the Shopsmith double bar clamps. At over 17 inches wide, I don't have any practical way to plane this flat (I'm terrible with hand planes and so I'm going to live with it. With the arch up the board sits flat and doesn't rock and the arch isn't pronounced.
Here it is sanded but not yet finished.
It will get some varnish.
I'd like to put either felt or flocking on the bottom of the board. Anyone have any recommendations on how to do that?