Shopsmith Forums

I recently bought another 10ER for AU$50. I think it was mainly used for turning. I want it as a dedicated drill, as I already have a well maintained 10ER which I'll keep for turning, circular sawing and sanding. This new acquisition wasn't maintained very well. I have removed the quill in order to re-engage the return spring on it's anchoring nipple, as it had come free. Before I removed the quill, the up and down movement seemed to vary from a stiff section, to just about loose enough. Now that I have the quill removed, I am finding it really difficult to re-engage the splines for reassembly. It seems that it is only the first inch where it is stiff (cos putting the spline into the 'wrong' end allows it to freely travel up to about an inch short of the end. Is there a deliberate taper so that one has to knock it onto the end. I am desisting on doing anything like that unless I know for sure. The splined rod and housing seem to be true and straight. Or is it just a question of continuously touching it up with needle files, then removing the filings, rinsing in diesel, until it smoothly slides on with minimal effort? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks,
Daniel

It seems that any filing need be done to the drive sleeve internally(that inch). I would continue trying insertion from the opposite end as 'burrs/whatever are filed away.

I definitely do NOT encourage forcing.

Enjoying summer???

Daniel,

As JPG said the filling needs to be done on the Drive Sleeve. First try putting this quill in you other 10ER to see if it fits okay and at the same time you could try putting the other 10ER Quill in this new-to-you 10ER's Drive Sleeve. If the results are the same work on the end of the Drive Sleeve where the Quill splines are not passing through. I have had this same problem on a Model 10 I restored. You need to file a little around the splines of the Drive Sleeve than check - repeat - until the Quill splines move freely in the Drive Sleeve. It can be a little tedious to do but will work. The hardest part is knowing which surface of the splines needs the most filing so use care doing this. Go slow and check often. You want the parts to end up working together but without adding any "play" between them.

Many thanks for both your replies. Pretty much as I thought but great to get your confirmation and endorsement. JPG: Summer? What summer...
Thanks again.

Yer NOT 'down yonder"? [AU$50]