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Need your thoughts on how to tackle my SS jointer. I watched Scott Markwood video on removing rust on jointer and did it with my bandsaw table. But, I got impatient and broke out the wire wheels on my drill which worked great for the tough spots. Is there a negative to the wire wheel approach? How about sandpaper with ROS? If so, what grit to start with and end?

Large parts can be difficult to remove rust from. In this case I would take the Jointer apart the rest of way. You can then work on it much easier. Make a place to put the Infeed or Outfeed/base table in with some rust remover. If the rust remover you use does not effect plastic lay down a piece and put blocks around it to form a tray. Add rust remover and the table, let soak. You can put rust remover directly on the surface as a option. Once the rust is gone you can clean up the surface with a wire wheel or light sanding. In any case it is important to keep the tables flat and a matching plane across them. Wax the bare metal surfaces to protect them with furniture paste wax.

Below is one I restored showing the tables finished and the fence still needing work. The tables were worse than the fence.
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chapmanruss wrote: Sun Jan 10, 2021 2:46 pm Large parts can be difficult to remove rust from. In this case I would take the Jointer apart the rest of way. You can then work on it much easier. Make a place to put the Infeed or Outfeed/base table in with some rust remover. If the rust remover you use does not effect plastic lay down a piece and put blocks around it to form a tray. Add rust remover and the table, let soak. You can put rust remover directly on the surface as a option. Once the rust is gone you can clean up the surface with a wire wheel or light sanding. In any case it is important to keep the tables flat and a matching plane across them. Wax the bare metal surfaces to protect them with furniture paste wax.

Below is one I restored showing the tables finished and the fence still needing work. The tables were worse than the fence.
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IMG_0157r.jpg

Did you use Evapo-rust or Navel jelly?

My preference would be evaporust(if not doing it by electrolysis).

I think FLOOR past wax is what one should use.

Thing to keep in mind is that pits(localized) are not a problem if left(one does not need to scrub(grind) all the way down to the bottom of the pits). A reasonably flat surface is what is needed.

Watch out for floor waxes. Many of them now contain non-slip additives, which you don't want on any surface involving sliding. That is why many of us still recommend the original JPW.

RonKlein wrote: Sun Jan 10, 2021 11:30 pm Watch out for floor waxes. Many of them now contain non-slip additives, which you don't want on any surface involving sliding. That is why many of us still recommend the original JPW.

YEP!!!!

Also only abrade for 'polishing'.

Gio800,

You asked

Did you use Evapo-rust or Navel jelly?

I don't recall now what I used for the rust removal in this case but I have not used Navel Jelly on my restorations. Evapo-rust works very well, doesn't take long and can be reused in most cases. As said before, finishing the job by waxing the bare metal parts. The following information is from a Mark 5 owner's manual on the subject and explains why to use the recommended wax type.

Maintenance: Waxing

CAUTION

Use paste floor or furniture wax. Do not use car wax or spray furniture polish. Car wax, although it offers good protection for metal it is extremely hard and has little value as a lubricant. Spray furniture polish isn’t hard enough. Paste floor or furniture wax protects and lubricates. Johnson Paste Wax, Original Formula works well.

As was already discussed, the use of paste floor wax may no longer be a good option. Original JPW or similar wax is preferred.