What's a few thousands!

[rocke1]

I'm between projects right now and so you will understand why the pokeing around with runout and deflection of the Mark V. How about saw blades being true. Using the Forrest woodworker II as a reference I measured .002 runout, a Freud rip blade at .004 and the thin kerf SS combo blade at .006.

Nick had one of his tips on SS table rotatation and as many of us know using the aux. table and tubes it is rock solid. The table not only twists but will deflect if a heavy board is cross cut or if you lean down on the miter gauge.

How much? About .005 of twist and .010 down. You may wonder what magic was used in these measurements. I have a magnetic base holder for the dial indicator that keeps the hands off the table. Since the table is an aloy , a plate of steel was layed on the table (the platen of the belt sander is good) and the magnetic base held fine.

But are working in wood and that material compresses, relaxes and who cares about one 250th of an inch.

Rock
VB VA

[dusty]

I'm between projects right now and so you will understand why the pokeing around with runout and deflection of the Mark V. How about saw blades being true. Using the Forrest woodworker II as a reference I measured .002 runout, a Freud rip blade at .004 and the thin kerf SS combo blade at .006.

Nick had one of his tips on SS table rotatation and as many of us know using the aux. table and tubes it is rock solid. The table not only twists but will deflect if a heavy board is cross cut or if you lean down on the miter gauge.

Rock
VB VA

If I understand your post properly, you are saying that you are very satisfied with the performance of your Mark V and especially if you stabilize the main table by utilizing extension tubes and an extension table (along with the main table) in the setup.

I think you should be exceedingly satisfied with your test results because they also indicate a very accurate drive shaft and three very good saw blades. The runout on all of them is IMHO very good.

When the Forrest II has been resharpened too many times to do it again, you might want to save it for use as an alignment reference plate.

[rocke1]

Dusty

Yes I am satisfied with my SS. Bought it in 1990 and have built most of the furniture in the home, lots of toys and many turned legs using the lathe duplicator. All my work is with soild rough stock so the jointer and planner have raised mountains of dust.

Rock

[reible]

Hi,

When you measure a blade static you might get one set of numbers but what really matters is what happens when you are cutting. Many more things come in to play so what you see one place might turn out to be quite different when measured differently. One way to see the whole shooting match is to mount the blade just like you're use to, take the miter gauge and put something that is really stable like MDF against the miter gauge... now make a cut into but not through the MDF. The kerf is the actual error you see from everything. When the slot is measured it is what it is... even try it a few times if you like. If the blade is new and they say it is .097" wide then anything above is the results of something else happening. The hard part then is to find what is causing the kerf to be off by .xxx". Not an easy task but sometimes that is what it takes to know what is going on. However in most cases the amount is so small that it doesn't matter. If you satisfied with the results you're getting then it's good enough.

I was working on a project this summer trying to make very thin strips. What is required is that you move the fence over by the kerf width plus the thickness of the strip you want to cut. So if you wanted a strip at say .005" thick and the kerf measured .109" the fence needs to move .114". If I had used the manufactures blade width and added the runout at static it would not have given me the correct measurements. Yes I was making .005" thick strips... but it worked better when I made them .007". If you want more details go to:

http://www.ssug.org/index.php?option=com_fireboard&Itemid=33&func=view&id=9579&catid=1#9579

I didn't catch the Nick table issue posts, must have been while I was away. However back a while ago I posted results and information about going with a 4 post or 6 post set up.

.... some time has passed...

OK found it:

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=789

It was from 9/24/07 and it took me a while to come up with the right things to search for. I also check to make sure the picture is still active and it is.

Can some one find me the Nick post? Having problems finding a key word that doesn't me piles and piles of results.

I think to back when I was at home and used the "old" power tools even at that time... so think really really old now. I use to claim the table saw had a bent shaft when my cuts didn't come out right... but it would some how fix itself for other cuts. The old steel blades you hand filled and set with a hammer... I wonder how far off that stuff was???? Interesting we could do any woodworking at all back then.

Ed

[dusty]

Hi,

I think to back when I was at home and used the "old" power tools even at that time... so think really really old now. I use to claim the table saw had a bent shaft when my cuts didn't come out right... but it would some how fix itself for other cuts. The old steel blades you hand filled and set with a hammer... I wonder how far off that stuff was???? Interesting we could do any woodworking at all back then.

Ed

Ed

Back when I think you are talking about, when they tuned blades with a hammer, I believe we measured with a ruler and not micrometer. Therefore, we were able to build to the drawings even though we could not cut a .109" kerf.

Those were "the good old days"????

[reible]

Back when I think you are talking about, when they tuned blades with a hammer, I believe we measured with a ruler and not micrometer. Therefore, we were able to build to the drawings even though we could not cut a .109" kerf.

Those were "the good old days"????

Yea I remember when I got a ruler that was all the way down to 1/16" and got rid of my yard stick, yep sanding off all those confusing numbers so you could use it as what they now call a "story stick". I think the blades were special varible width ones being wider at the start of ripping the 8' oak board and getting narrower as you finish. Ah the smell of fresh burned oak... no I mean fresh cut oak. And remember those smooth cuts, almost no need to plane the egdes for glue ups... yea right those were the days.

Ed

[dusty]

Yea I remember when I got a ruler that was all the way down to 1/16" and got rid of my yard stick, yep sanding off all those confusing numbers so you could use it as what they now call a "story stick". I think the blades were special varible width ones being wider at the start of ripping the 8' oak board and getting narrower as you finish. Ah the smell of fresh burned oak... no I mean fresh cut oak. And remember those smooth cuts, almost no need to plane the egdes for glue ups... yea right those were the days.

Ed

No, Ed. I have no recollection of the day when no planing was required before glue up. You must have tuned your blades a lot better than I did.

[charlese]

...But are working in wood and that material compresses, relaxes and who cares about one 250th of an inch.

Rock
VB VA

Rock - you are a man after my heart! You have said what I've been trying to say for years.

Ed - The post where Nick cut down on table twist is actually a short video. He did the same thing you described doing in your retrieved post. Here it is -

As you may have missed all of these short videos - I gave you the link to all of them. You will find the one named "No Room for Wiggle" 4th from the bottom on the left side. http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Tips.htm

[reible]

Thanks Chuck I'll take a look maybe even later tonight.

Ed