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Bearing replacement

Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2021 10:52 pm
by dust
Good afternoon,
I am trying to restore my father's Shopsmith 10E model 228 bought new in the mid in Sydney Australia in the1950's.
It is running well but has a concerning bearing noise.
Is anyone able to pass on instructions on how to remove and replace the bearings?
Also are the bearings available in Australia?
Thanks Peter

Re: Bearing replacement

Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 12:34 pm
by rpd
Welcome aboard. :)
The post in this link has links to a lot of 10E/ER documentation and resources.
viewtopic.php?p=274502#p274502

The 10E and10ER have four bearings in the headstock. Two in the quill. This video shows how to replace them.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MbGbefGFDQ

And two in the drive sleeve
There is a grub screw (setscrew) on the back of the headstock that holds the drive sleeve in place. Mine also had some type of sticky/tar like substance holding it in the bore. With the quill removed, I put a stick of wood through from the quill end and tapped with a hammer to encourage it to come out.
The second picture in this post shows how to pull the bearings and spacer off the drive sleeve.
viewtopic.php?p=41515#p41515

Re: Bearing replacement

Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 1:29 pm
by chapmanruss
Peter,

The original brand of bearings are Fafnir at least in the US. For the quill bearings they are 202KLL3 and for the drive sleeve bearings they are 205KLL2. Fafnir is now part of Timken so look for them under that name too. Below are pictures of the 2 Bearings. Note that the part numbers are on the inner ring and the brand on the bearing covers.

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102-18 Bearing Fafnir 202KLL3.jpg
102-18 Bearing Fafnir 202KLL3.jpg (166.36 KiB) Viewed 1680 times
102-21 Bearing Fafnir 205KLL2.jpg
102-21 Bearing Fafnir 205KLL2.jpg (173.42 KiB) Viewed 1680 times
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Something to know about the Shopsmith Model 10E made in Australia is they are actually equivalent to a Model 10ER made in the US. When looking for parts you will want to use caution buying parts from a US Model 10E since not all parts are interchangeable individually. Some have to be changed as an assembly. There were between 1 to 7 versions of parts used in the Model 10E and 10ER between their introduction in 1947 through 1953 when it was replaced by the Mark 5.

Re: Bearing replacement

Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 4:06 am
by dust
Manty thanks for your quick responses.
I'll get onto it asap.
Regards Peter

Re: Bearing replacement

Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 4:15 am
by dust
Thanks rpd,
Understand how to get the bearings off the quill, but what about those at the pulley end?
Do I just tap the shaft out towards the pulley?
Regards Peter

Re: Bearing replacement

Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 11:31 am
by rpd
dust wrote: Thu Apr 15, 2021 4:15 am Thanks rpd,
Understand how to get the bearings off the quill, but what about those at the pulley end?
Do I just tap the shaft out towards the pulley?
Regards Peter
On the pulley end of the headstock there is a threaded hole on the top where the bolt that holds the upper belt guard goes. In line with that, on the back side of the headstock, is a set screw that tightens against the spacer ring on the drive sleeve and holds it in place. The drive sleeve is a slip fit in the headstock bore, but mine also had a sticky substance holding it in place.
drive sleeve retaining screw.jpg
drive sleeve retaining screw.jpg (452.41 KiB) Viewed 1609 times

Re: Bearing replacement

Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 11:47 am
by chapmanruss
In removing the Drive Sleeve from the headstock, pull it out after removing the set screw shown in Ron's picture above. Sometimes they need a little help getting out. Use a wood dowel around an inch in diameter from the quill side and tap with a mallet. Do not use metal objects directly against the Drive Sleeve Assembly to remove it as this can cause damage to its parts.

Re: Bearing replacement

Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 1:58 pm
by dust
Thanks Ron and Russ