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Rusty 610 Jigsaw
Posted: Wed Apr 14, 2021 12:56 am
by eagspoo
I recently bought a Shopsmith Mark V that I'm in the process of restoring. The main stand and headstock are looking good!
I also got a 610 Jigsaw with the deal and was pretty excited to tear it apart and get it cleaned up. Most of the lower looks ok - oil is completely dry but yoke slider still looks good, and everything is still sliding smoothly.
Unfortunately though, some moisture appears to have entered the upper housing and the cylinder and lock hold-down rod are very rusty and pitted. I tried cleaning both up with WD-40 and green scotch bright, and it does look quite a bit better, but the pitting is still pretty significant and I can't get either to budge from their seized locations. The spring mechanism inside the cylinder, maybe because of oil, still slides smoothly.
I currently can't adjust the tension or lock down the guide rod. Otherwise, this thing seems very fixable. Any suggestions for how to better remove the remaining rust and un-seize the cylinder and lock hold-down rod and get them cleaned up? I don't think either need to be perfect because they are just for adjustment, if I could just get them out without damaging them or the upper housing more, I feel like I could knock down the roughness, add wax and they'd work fine. Does that seem true?
I was considering filling the upper housing with Evapo-Rust (or something like that) and letting it soak until it came free, but not sure if that is a good idea here.
Thanks for any suggestions!
See attachments below. Neither of those pieces will budge currently.
Re: Rusty 610 Jigsaw
Posted: Wed Apr 14, 2021 9:36 am
by JPG
Flush out oil.
Fill with evaporust
Cover(it DOES evaporate)
Soak fer a day(maybe less)
If still stuck, soak in 50-50 acetone-ATF
Scotch Brite ok fer polishing, not so much fer rust removal
Re: Rusty 610 Jigsaw
Posted: Wed Apr 14, 2021 12:25 pm
by chapmanruss
A word of caution on rust removal and parts that have alloy castings attached to them. I do not know if Evaporust will affect the alloy castings attached to the upper cylinder but I have used another rust removal option, vinegar that damaged similar alloy castings on other parts. I haven't tried Evaporust on steel parts with these types of alloy castings attached to them to see if they are affected. I didn't want to damage any more parts. Remember the Jig Saw is no longer made and new replacement parts are mostly gone from Shopsmiths inventory and they are no longer making any parts for them.
Re: Rusty 610 Jigsaw
Posted: Wed Apr 14, 2021 12:37 pm
by JPG
Vinegar is an acid(Acetic).
Evaporust works by chelation. I do not know, but believe non steel(iron) parts are unaffected.
Re: Rusty 610 Jigsaw
Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2021 12:53 am
by eagspoo
I got the cylinder and guide rod out! They are both currently soaking more in evaporust.
After taking the internal spring mechanism inside the cylinder apart, I encountered a slightly torn and generally tired looking seal pump gasket (part number 502239). Do people have any ideas on where I might buy a replacement? Or how to fabricate it?
Thanks again
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Re: Rusty 610 Jigsaw
Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2021 11:00 am
by chapmanruss
It is one of the parts, like most, that are no longer available from Shopsmith. The best option is to make your own. I haven't made one for the 610 Jig Saw but have for the earlier A-34 Jig Saw made for the Model 10E and 10ER. I used a piece of leather from an old belt cut to size. Some careful cutting and forming and you should have a workable seal.
Re: Rusty 610 Jigsaw
Posted: Sat Apr 17, 2021 1:50 am
by ShoptimusPrime
I completely rebuilt two of these air pumps this year. You can use a 1" rubber washer with a carefully cut square notice in it for a gasket. Try and get a really thick washer or double up if you can. Then put the rubber washer between 2 metal washers and you've got a tight fitting gasket and blower assembly. Check out Ace hardware, they have them for less than a quarter.
The real fun now is to disassemble the lower housing and clean that part up really well. There is a small pin near the base of the tube/cylinder you can push out to separate the tube from the lower blower assembly. Be very careful with doing this. After the pin is pushed out the lower assembly will separate into two pieces. This is a great opportunity to really clean and polish the inside/outside of the tube. I used mother's polish on a paper towel and hooked it on a bowl and spun it around inside the tube for a few mins. Got it nice and smooth and polished.
There is a spring and two small nylon bbs in there that act as check valves. They will try and escape and fly/roll off of your bench. Do this step over a plastic bin or box to catch them. Clean this up well and make a new sandwich gasket from automotive gasket material. I lightly sanded the two mating surfaces and found these surfaces were no where near flat. I used CA glue and powdered aluminum (sand a piece of scrap aluminum for this) and filled in the low spots and sanded everything flat and smooth. Put the springs and bb's back in and reassemble. I used the same sewing machine oil to lubricate the rubber gasket and nylon bb's. Just don't use to much or it could leak out into the puffer tube and end up on your work.
The two units I restored were really pushing some air after this. I'll have to do a write up on this in a month or so with pictures. I'd like to try and measure the before and after air flow and pressure for comparison. Several of us have made replacement 3d printed yokes. Mine have been installed and working without issue for several years now. They can also be made from hard woods in a pinch if needed.
Re: Rusty 610 Jigsaw
Posted: Sat Apr 17, 2021 11:06 am
by eagspoo
ShoptimusPrime wrote: ↑Sat Apr 17, 2021 1:50 am
I completely rebuilt two of these air pumps this year. You can use a 1" rubber washer with a carefully cut square notice in it for a gasket. Try and get a really thick washer or double up if you can. Then put the rubber washer between 2 metal washers and you've got a tight fitting gasket and blower assembly. Check out Ace hardware, they have them for less than a quarter.
The real fun now is to disassemble the lower housing and clean that part up really well. There is a small pin near the base of the tube/cylinder you can push out to separate the tube from the lower blower assembly. Be very careful with doing this. After the pin is pushed out the lower assembly will separate into two pieces. This is a great opportunity to really clean and polish the inside/outside of the tube. I used mother's polish on a paper towel and hooked it on a bowl and spun it around inside the tube for a few mins. Got it nice and smooth and polished.
There is a spring and two small nylon bbs in there that act as check valves. They will try and escape and fly/roll off of your bench. Do this step over a plastic bin or box to catch them. Clean this up well and make a new sandwich gasket from automotive gasket material. I lightly sanded the two mating surfaces and found these surfaces were no where near flat. I used CA glue and powdered aluminum (sand a piece of scrap aluminum for this) and filled in the low spots and sanded everything flat and smooth. Put the springs and bb's back in and reassemble. I used the same sewing machine oil to lubricate the rubber gasket and nylon bb's. Just don't use to much or it could leak out into the puffer tube and end up on your work.
The two units I restored were really pushing some air after this. I'll have to do a write up on this in a month or so with pictures. I'd like to try and measure the before and after air flow and pressure for comparison. Several of us have made replacement 3d printed yokes. Mine have been installed and working without issue for several years now. They can also be made from hard woods in a pinch if needed.
I honestly was going to avoid opening all that up until I got it back together and saw how the air pump was working, leave well enough alone if it was working ok - but you are making me think I might as well go for it. Can you post pictures of the process?
Re: Rusty 610 Jigsaw
Posted: Sat Apr 17, 2021 11:14 am
by eagspoo
Also, I've gotten most of the jigsaw apart and cleaned everything up. Most of it looks pretty good apart from some pitting on the outside of the cylinder (which seems ok) and the hold down spring piece which is very pitted (also fine I think).
My question: I don't think I want to oil things up to keep them clean and rust free, and I know johnson's wax is preferred for lubing sliding surfaces (like the outside of the cylinder), so what do people recommend for things like that pitted hold down spring which seems likely to start rusting again right away but will also be getting a lot of dust?
(I also later disassembled the lower right piece with the two tubes in it, de-rusting those now)
Thanks!
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Re: Rusty 610 Jigsaw
Posted: Sat Apr 17, 2021 11:18 am
by JPG
JPW on the hold down.