Shopsmith Forums

I looked at the Aussy site and they don't show the 1.5mm just 1.6mm and thicker.

Jack

claimdude wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 8:57 am I looked at the Aussy site and they don't show the 1.5mm just 1.6mm and thicker.

Jack

Did you go to this link? It is 2mm thick.
https://magnet.com.au/products/neodymiu ... ive-3m-vhb

I have to agree with what David and John have said above. I have a set of 520/M7 tables with the magnetic strips and a set without. Mostly it tells me which set of tables belongs to which Shopsmith, the Mark V 520 or the Mark 7. As for using it I still rely on a steel ruler for checking the cut width. The ruler for the magnetic strip shown in the picture in my previous post usually sits aligned on the magnetic strip and is useful for a rough setting of the fence on the main table followed by using a ruler between the blade and fence to check it for accuracy. My Table saw, which I haven't use in years, has a built in ruler but I have always checked cut widths separately to confirm. Part of that measure twice, cut once rule of woodworking.

chapmanruss wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 1:58 pm I have to agree with what David and John have said above. I have a set of 520/M7 tables with the magnetic strips and a set without. Mostly it tells me which set of tables belongs to which Shopsmith, the Mark V 520 or the Mark 7. As for using it I still rely on a steel ruler for checking the cut width. The ruler for the magnetic strip shown in the picture in my previous post usually sits aligned on the magnetic strip and is useful for a rough setting of the fence on the main table followed by using a ruler between the blade and fence to check it for accuracy. My Table saw, which I haven't use in years, has a built in ruler but I have always checked cut widths separately to confirm. Part of that measure twice, cut once rule of woodworking.

Russ, David, John,

You guys are probably ahead of the curve for me on this and I do appreciate the feedback. This may be a fools errand for me to try to make mine work.
So, is there anyone that has been able to use the 520 rulers for ripping...I mean other than for making birdhouses? So I had two thoughts on how I "might" use the Shopsmith rulers, but I may be deluding myself. The first case is the occasional rip where exact width is not needed. This wouldn't apply to projects like furniture that I build where I need more precision, but rather the case for outdoor items that I sometimes work on, e.g. fencing, flower pots, etc. The second thought that I had was using the Shopsmith ruler as a coarse measurement for setting up a DRO where it is the fine measurement. I still haven't settled on a suitable means for attaching one, yet, but the idea is that if I could then the Shopsmith ruler would be a sight guide before switching over to the DRO to finalize the rip setup. This may be a pipe dream, but hey it is fun to have dreams right?

RFGuy wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 2:23 pm

chapmanruss wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 1:58 pm I have to agree with what David and John have said above. I have a set of 520/M7 tables with the magnetic strips and a set without. Mostly it tells me which set of tables belongs to which Shopsmith, the Mark V 520 or the Mark 7. As for using it I still rely on a steel ruler for checking the cut width. The ruler for the magnetic strip shown in the picture in my previous post usually sits aligned on the magnetic strip and is useful for a rough setting of the fence on the main table followed by using a ruler between the blade and fence to check it for accuracy. My Table saw, which I haven't use in years, has a built in ruler but I have always checked cut widths separately to confirm. Part of that measure twice, cut once rule of woodworking.

Russ, David, John,

You guys are probably ahead of the curve for me on this and I do appreciate the feedback. This may be a fools errand for me to try to make mine work.
So, is there anyone that has been able to use the 520 rulers for ripping...I mean other than for making birdhouses? So I had two thoughts on how I "might" use the Shopsmith rulers, but I may be deluding myself. The first case is the occasional rip where exact width is not needed. This wouldn't apply to projects like furniture that I build where I need more precision, but rather the case for outdoor items that I sometimes work on, e.g. fencing, flower pots, etc. The second thought that I had was using the Shopsmith ruler as a coarse measurement for setting up a DRO where it is the fine measurement. I still haven't settled on a suitable means for attaching one, yet, but the idea is that if I could then the Shopsmith ruler would be a sight guide before switching over to the DRO to finalize the rip setup. This may be a pipe dream, but hey it is fun to have dreams right?

You would have the same issue with a DRO as there is with the SS rulers. If you change blades or arbors or move the quill the DRO calibration is out the window.

jsburger wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 2:29 pm You would have the same issue with a DRO as there is with the SS rulers. If you change blades or arbors or move the quill the DRO calibration is out the window.

John,

The DRO is far easier...move fence next to sawblade, push a button and it is zero'ed. Much easier to calibrate than a Shopsmith ruler.

Even though my tapes are losing their magnetic characteristics, I have not found the "rip scale" to be all that ineffective.

Now I don't move the quill setting much so the only time I have to re-zero is when I move either the carriage or the headstock. When that happens just relocate the ruler (zero the ruler) and use it. Yes, it is now ready to rip or to use as a stop for cross cuts.

If I didn't the the rip scale I certainly would not be fusing about finding replacement tapes.

The MAG-DRO also works and will remain in the top drawer of my tool chest along with the SuperBars. With my digital caliper (and I suspect all others) it is zeroed when you turn it on. This works unless you are trying to make specific measurements rather than monitor relative differences (like doing depth measurements).

The best part of the discussions here are seeing different perspectives on how things are accomplished.

chapmanruss wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 7:15 pm The best part of the discussions here are seeing different perspectives on how things are accomplished.

Thanks Russ. Yeah, I never took the time to see if I could use my 520 rulers because I noticed how easily they were bumped or knocked off on mine. Dusty has indicated he has had some success using his, so I think I will try to order some stronger magnet tape and give it a go again. I know it has to be re-calibrated whenever a changeover is performed, quill moved, etc., etc. Maybe I am oversimplifying it, but I figured calibration could be easy with a 1-2-3 block placed between the fence and the sawblade then move the ruler to the appropriate width to match. Maybe insufficient for very precise work, but perhaps okay for most rips? Who knows...once I get it working, I still may not like it as others have alluded to here on this thread.

I have been noodling on a DRO solution for the 520 table for some time now...mainly bouncing ideas around in my head but not really coming up with a solution previously. A lot of DRO's won't easily work on the 520 table because of the front rail extrusion and how the encoder, display and scale have to mount on many brands. I think I have a solution now that might work and be practical in mounting, etc. to the Shopsmith table. Just debating whether I want to modify my existing table or try to find a used one somewhere to experiment on. IF I can make it work, I will post it on the forum sometime in the future.

chapmanruss wrote: ↑Fri May 07, 2021 7:15 pm The best part of the discussions here are seeing different perspectives on how things are accomplished.

I have a Wixey DRO on my 52" PM200 cabinet table saw. It was a cool tool, but I almost never use it. It is dead on accurate when calibrated. I use a steel rule. On the other hand I have a Wixey DRO height gauge adapted to my SS pro planer. It is dead on accurate and I use it all the time.