Shopsmith Forums

Suggestions for putting a finish on turned pens please. I have no clue about the types and methods of applying a finish on wood turned pens.

Bob
San Diego

I don't know if this is the best finish but it works for me. I go thru the following process: The blanks have to be prepared, meaning that I sand, thru grits 150, 240, 320, 400, 600.

I then use a product called EEE-Ultra Shine. It is a cut and polish wax that as advertized will take a 400 grit finish to 2000 grit! It produces a brilliant shine, when worked with pressure. Pennstate carries it.

Special note: I do not use cloths to polish or shine when working on the lathe. It is a safety factor, fearing that the cloth could get caught in the turning process. What I use is paper towels, folded over a couple of times.

I also use a blue rubber like tape (can't find the name of it) that I wrap around my first finger tip! This allows me to apply a little pressure, and endure the heat build up longer while using the EEE-Ultra Shine, and the below final finish. I set the SS to the "L or M" setting for both the EEE-Ultra Shine, and the below finish, and keep my finger moving over the blank.

Finally, I apply Mylands High Build Friction polish. I have found that this gives a hard and durable finish to the pens. I apply about three to four coats to each pen.

Again, it works for me....just don't know if its the best method.

Good Luck
FlashbacPT
John:)

I like to use either paste wax or the friction finish made by HUT.

BPR

Bob:

Let me echo John's advice on his pen finishing methods, especially the use of EEE Cream. I have tried a host of different products and regardless of what your final finish is, no product is any better that the prep that goes into what lies underneath. I also go through 600 paper and then use 0000 steel wool. I use the wool only because I was introduced to it in the Kip & Rex DVD. Beyond that, I also consider the EEE Cream to be the cream of the crop prior to your final coating. I have also used the Mylands Friction Polish and you will not find a better product, however, at present, I am using Hut Crystal Coat and really can't decide which is better. It's all a personal choice. Experiment and use what works best for you.

John as I have, has probably suffered the misfortune of a rag accident so please heed his advice. You can't go wrong with a paper towel. Also gun cleaning patches work well but don't go to the expense of buying them if you don't have them just lying around.

I have used my Shopsmith for pen turning, however, it seems that the older I get, the more irritable I become and the constant hlgh noise level bothers me. I'm currently using a VS baby lathe because it is almost silent and also becasue I can roll it out on the patio in good weather.

For sharpening, I use the Wolverine System which I dearly love but sometimes in pen turning when it gets down to the nitty gritty and other small pieces, I have found that Shopsmith's Strip Sander with attached sharpening accessory and 600 belt produces an unbelieveable edge which makes turning of small pieces a pleasure rather than a chore.

Arno

I use a mixture of equal parts of BOILED LINSEED OIL, ALCOHOL and BULLS EYE SHELLAC as the final finish to my pens. A couple of drops on a paper towel held to the spinning pen for a few moments gives a good durable finish.

ldh

I was at a woodworking shop a couple of weeks ago. Craft Supply http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/ was there and had mini lathes set up and you could turn a pen. They were using a four step finish, after sanding they applied 1-Mylands Cellulose Sanding Sealer, 2-EEE Wax, 3-Mylands Friction Polish, 4-Renaissance Wax. It produces a very nice finish.

I have also tried Oil/CA, with the lathe turning apply a coat of oil either BLO or Pure Tung Oil or your favorite oil and apply pressure with a paper towel to heat it up, then with the paper towel against the underside of the pen using light pressure dribble Medium CA into the gap on the front side and the spinning of the lathe will spread the CA out. Again finish by using a paper towel with heavier pressure to set the CA and buff it out. You could try applying EEE then renaissance Wax over this.

The stick finishes like Hut also work.

I read a post a while back on a wood-turning forum from a guy who uses Plexiglas's as a finish, I think he dissolves it in Acetone.

Some woods like Cocobolo contain a lot of wax or oil making them difficult to apply a finish to. I have just buffed Cocobolo and it turned out nice, see the Beall Buff system http://www.bealltool.com/products/buffing/buffer.php op Penn State sells a cheap system http://pennstateind.com/ also pen kits.

How durable do you want the finish to be? Try several different finishes to find the one that works well when you use it.

same a jim above. sand thru 400, sanding sealer, sand with 400 again, then EEE cream, then shellawax or mylands friction polish, then wax be it johnson's paste wax (which is always nearby as a shopsmith owner) or ren wax.

Keep in mind that not all woods react the same way to the same finish. Someone mentioned using boiled lindseed oil, but that can turn some woods reddish, especially lighter colored woods including maple burl (know from experience).

Some woods have so much oil in them naturally that it is sometimes best just to use wax, though that is not very durable when used on pens that get used frequently.

If you use steel wool while finishing, make sure it doesn't get caught in between the bushings and the wood on the pen mandrel. It can hurt if it gets pulled out of your fingers while the lathe is running. It is best to use steel wool while the lathe is turned off.