Shopsmith Forums

This afternoon I used the 510 for routing. Hadn't used it in a while, as have been using the router table and the OPR. This was for the drawers for my phone chair project. I elected to use the Mk 5 to rout the inter-locking corner joints and grooves for the plywood bottoms. Gotta say this worked out very well!!!!:)

I was pleasantly surprised how well the dados rabbets and grooves turned out, and how accurately this system could be set up. I used a 1/4" spiral bit, the SS 1/4" router chuck, and the 510 fence with 3/4" plywood scrap on top of the table to keep the router chuck from going low enough to touch the fence. Once the quill was set to 1/4" and the table adjusted it was clear sailing just a little bit slower than using a router, but no burns.

I had to use a spacer between the fence and the drawer pieces to mill the rabbets. I used the adjustable stop collar to adjust the table.

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charlese wrote:This afternoon I used the 510 for routing. Hadn't used it in a while, as have been using the router table and the OPR. This was for the drawers for my phone chair project. I elected to use the Mk 5 to rout the inter-locking corner joints and grooves for the plywood bottoms. Gotta say this worked out very well!!!!:)

I was pleasantly surprised how well the dados rabbets and grooves turned out, and how accurately this system could be set up. I used a 1/4" spiral bit, the SS 1/4" router chuck, and the 510 fence with 3/4" plywood scrap on top of the table to keep the router chuck from going low enough to touch the fence. Once the quill was set to 1/4" and the table adjusted it was clear sailing just a little bit slower than using a router, but no burns.

I had to use a spacer between the fence and the drawer pieces to mill the rabbets. I used the adjustable stop collar to adjust the table.

Hi Chuck,
Were the drawer sides, sans the bottoms, also plywood? Or some other material?

Oops! Sorry! The sides fronts and back are from scrap red oak.

charlese wrote:Oops! Sorry! The sides fronts and back are from scrap red oak.

I am glad that you had good results. Did you make the cuts in one pass or how many?

Charlese,
Thanks for the input on using the router. I was contiplating using it to do some rounding on my next project. I want to see the cuts as I go and my existing table cuts from the bottom side and I can't see until it is done. Any hints on holding the bits in place. I have heard folks say they dropped into the wood during a cut. I plan to use the teflon tape on the set screw like Nick had mentioned to keep it from backing out, I did that on my middle position of the tool rest and have not had the set screw fall out yet.

Tim - I made three passes to get 1/4" depth on the first couple of dados. On the last few, I did the cut in one pass. For me, it was an exercise in getting used to the feel of the slow rotating router bit. After gaining a feel of how the bit cut and how fast to move the wood, there was no problem in increasing to 1/8" cuts and then taking a cut of 1/4"X 1/4". For anyone else, (in fact for me the next time) I will always recommend very small cuts until you(I), are(am) confident of what the results will be.

There was no tear out difference between making three passes and one pass. The worst experienced was a very small amount of grain raising. That's because I was using a (up?) cutting spiral, which lifts the shavings up out of the workpiece.

Jim - I really don't know how to answer your question, except to say I have never had a problem at all with a router bit coming loose from the chuck and plowing into the wood. Using Shopsmith's 1/4" router chuck part (514632) is the only option for routing with the Mark V while using a 1/4" bit. There is the set screw to hold the chuck onto the spindle - then there are two smaller set screws to hold the bit in the chuck. I've always tightened these screws firmly. In fact so much so that there are small indentations on the shaft of the bits from this use. These dents have had no issues when using these bits in a router.

One other thing - If you are going to do some rounding - FIRST GET A SPLIT FENCE! This is so most of, or half of the bit is behind the fence. You can make one by coping Nick's plan from the Sawdust sessions, or buy the Shopsmith "Shaper/Drum Sander Fence Kit". I have both, and will recommend the Kit. Part No. (555113).

However you do this rounding operation on the Mark V - you don't ever want to put the workpiece between the SS fence and the bit. This is asking for a mishap that can be bad.