Used SS Planer cheap find but dirty

doug45601 · Post by **doug45601** » Wed Dec 03, 2008 8:53 pm

Have been on the hunt for a SS Planer and captured one from an estate auction. Lots of SS stuff at the auction that went fast but I was the only bidder on the planer! Got it for 250.00 but it was stored in an unheated barn/workshop under a tarp for years.

Yep, light surface rust on the table, bolt heads and wheel assemblies. Drive chain and table lift screws were clean as it appeared the previous owner did make an attempt to maintain it.

Got it home and opened up the hood, Cutter head was slightly starting to rust, blades felt sharp but when testing out the planer on wood. It made the cut shinney... indicating dullness.

After tearing down the stand, I was able to start taking the planer apart for a more detailed look and cleaning. BTW this planer was made in 1992 so I can give you some idea on what to expect under the hood.

Removed the feed motor assy. Under there you will find, dry gears, wood shavings and crud of sawdust mixed with old grease. Gears were in good shape but lots of sawdust wedged between the teeth. With access to the cutter head bearing, it was also loaded with crud.

Removed the belt guard and pully. Nearly the same as the feed motor side... more crud but nothing broke or damaged.

Checked the feed roller. Tip, check for loosness of the little allen screws that are on each end of the feed roller. I find one loose and it allowed the roller pieces to slide sideways and rub the housing.

Overall the planer is in good shape, needs some TLC but for the sake of maintenance for you planer owners. Pull the feed motor assy off the check the gear box for accumulated crud.

I'll be sanding and steelwooling for awhile but satisfied with my cheap find.

Now for all you planer owner experts. How many times can you sharpen the blades? Ive got the blade sharpener attachment and the conical disk but have never used it so, which grit paper should I use?

And, as far as the rusty bolts and screws, after cleaning them with my rotor scotchbrite wheel on the drill press, has anyone ever coated them with "gun blueing"? Open to suggestions..

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Wed Dec 03, 2008 9:11 pm

Good find, and buy, Doug!
As for your sharpening question, I can only refer to sharpening SS jointer blades, as my planer is not SS. If the SS planer blades are as heavy as the planer blades (which it appears they are) they will go through more sharpening than you would want to count. Use fine sandpaper.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 3:15 am

How many is obviously a function of how much you have to take off each time to get a clean edge. Chips in the blade mean fewer sharpenings so avoid chipping the blades. Thin cuts...inspect stock before planing. I hardly ever surface plane wood from packing crates, etc for this reason.

I don't know how many but I have sharpened my either 5 or six times and I can see doing that many more easily.

Don't drop a blade on the concrete floor. I have seen that done. Not a pretty sight.

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 4:10 am

Hi,

The planer blades will have a minimum width listed in the owner's manual. I believe it is 11/16" but would need to check.

They should take several sharpenings, but I know last year I worked on an old Magna Jointer where the blades had been taken too narrow.

Have fun!

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 4:21 am

Here's also a good older post on blade sharpening. I had the same experience as Chuck on the last entry - had to make sure the washers inside the sharpening jig didn't keep the blade from seating level:

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=242

doug45601 · Post by **doug45601** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 5:08 pm

Thanks for the lead to the sharpening discussion.. I'll be giving it a shot soon.
Over the last couple days I've torn down this planer, cleaned and re-painted it. Didn't go as far as doing any table height adjustments as I didn't remove the chain. Did however remove the bolts from the side plates, (one side at a time for painting) and when I removed the feed motor side it opened up enough for the chip deflector to fall off.. Probably a good thing it did as it was caked with pitch.. A single chip couldn't have gotten between the deflector and drive spindle.

Put it all back together, done some light lube work and fired it up.. The cleaning really seemed to help along with the now proper belt adjustment and re-tune as this thing now "sings along".. Blades are next as I think I'm going to build a honing jig and try honing the blades first before removal.

BTW, I used "gun blueing" to retreat all the screws, bare metal parts and caster wheel rods. Really came out good!