Shopsmith Forums

Greetings all, thank you for letting me in the group.

I’m taking on a long overdue rehab of my father’s MkV. Sadly he passed in 1993, but I couldn’t let it go, so its been sitting since. Now that I’ve retired and have the time, I’m going to get it running again. The first order of business it to tackle the rust on the various parts, mostly the bench and way tubes and table tubes. Perhaps someone who’s done this will have a suggestion for a good way to go at it. Here’s a photo of the table tubes, which seem to be the worst.

Thanks in advance.

John

Evaporust. Buy a gallon at Harbor freight. Buying quarts at auto store is too $$$$$.

You might want to explore electrolysis rust removal.

For way tubes there is the pvc pipe/evaporust approach.

P.S. resist the urge to use abrasives except for polishing.

As JPG suggested Evaporust works very well. I have used it with great success. It can be reused which reduces the cost per use. The PVC pipe he suggests is simply a length slightly longer and is slightly larger inside diameter than a tube you wish to remove rust from. I have an 1-1/2" PVC pipe I use to remove rust from way tubes on restorations of older Shopsmiths. Some like using electrolysis for rust removal. I have not done it myself but have seen others having good results with it. I have used vinegar for rust removal which is less expensive than Evaporust but slower.

As for abrasives, very fine ones can be used for polishing the tubes after the rust is removed depending on the original finish of the tube or part you are working on. Way Tubes are polished metal so they can be polished with very fine abrasives. Bench Tubes have been either painted or chrome. Other tubes vary from polished or chrome. After they have been cleaned up, and polished for bare metal tubes, a good coat of Johnson's original formula paste wax or equivalent will help protect them and provide lubrication for them having parts sliding on them. Example - the Headstock sliding on the way tubes.

Thanks. I’ll pick some up tomorrow.

None of you want to read this because it goes against almost everything that has been posted. I had blackened tubes on a 510 and used Bartenders Friend to remove it and restore it. You don't need to buy BTF, just get some Oxylic Acid and make your own. It's the same stuff and WAY cheaper. I diluted with olive oil but you can probably use water. Wax on wax off, well rub and rub and rub on then just wipe off. It meets the CFB (cheaper, faster, better) requirement seldom found. I have about three pounds of Oxlyic acid that cost less than a can of BTF. Try it. Mikey likes it.

db5,

I remember someone (maybe you) talking about using BTF before but I haven't tried it yet so I didn't mention it. I have a pair of Model 10E table posts that have been blackened but not rusted so I may give your suggestion a try. Thanks for the reminder.

Took my first shot at the table tubes with the Evaporust, not bad. Used a scotch pad, they look a lot better, and importantly feel smooth, the dark areas appear to be stains. I’ll keep at it.

FWIW you soak stuff in evaporust. When did you use the scorch brite abrasive?

I soaked some rags on them for a bit, the a soft scotch brite.

John4337 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 31, 2021 10:45 pm I soaked some rags on them for a bit, the a soft scotch brite.

Best if you can immerse them, I think a lot more can come off. Maybe use saturated towels and wrap it in plastic. Even in immersed it will probably take an hour or more to get all of that out. Rubbing off any heavy oxide can worsen scratches and pits but the EvapoRust will eventually dissolve all the oxide and you'll know for sure anything left is a stain or something that's not base metal or oxide.