If you want stuff to last live in Arizona. If you want life to be 'interesting' live in Florida. But you will hafta deal with something anywhere you live.
Refurbishing a MkV 510
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Re: Refurbishing a MkV 510
Ed from Rhode Island
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
- chapmanruss
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3488
- Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:16 pm
- Location: near Portland, Oregon
Re: Refurbishing a MkV 510
Ed, so true,
John4337,
Your continued efforts are looking great. Have you thought about upgrading to the 3" casters at some point? If so, now would be a good time to add the extra mounting holes to the legs. That way you can simply un-bolt the retractable caster assemblies, replace the casters with the new 3" ones and re-bolt the retractable caster assemblies back on the legs in the new upper holes. If you decide not to add the new holes now it is not a difficult job to do it later when upgrading.
Have you dried out yet from the heavy rains in the Northeast? Hopefully much of it didn't get to you.If you want stuff to last live in Arizona. If you want life to be 'interesting' live in Florida. But you will hafta deal with something anywhere you live.
John4337,
Your continued efforts are looking great. Have you thought about upgrading to the 3" casters at some point? If so, now would be a good time to add the extra mounting holes to the legs. That way you can simply un-bolt the retractable caster assemblies, replace the casters with the new 3" ones and re-bolt the retractable caster assemblies back on the legs in the new upper holes. If you decide not to add the new holes now it is not a difficult job to do it later when upgrading.
Russ
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
Re: Refurbishing a MkV 510
We did well this time, thank you for asking. The rain was heavy but no extreme winds that could have led to loss of power. And we the previous hurricane, Henri, bypassed us altogether so the ground wasn't saturated and the waterways weren't already inundated. I used to be Ed from New York and I understand what a disaster it was down in NYC and parts of New Jersey and Connecticut.chapmanruss wrote: ↑Fri Sep 10, 2021 12:29 pm Have you dried out yet from the heavy rains in the Northeast? Hopefully much of it didn't get to you.
Ed from Rhode Island
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
510 PowerPro Double Tilt:Greenie PowerPro Drill Press:500 Sanding Shorty w/Belt&Strip Sanders
Super Sawsmith 2000:Scroll Saw w/Stand:Joint-Matic:Power Station:Power Stand:Bandsaw:Joiner:Jigsaw
1961 Goldie:1960 Sawsmith RAS:10ER
Re: Refurbishing a MkV 510
Thanks. The Evaporust has been incredible, all the castor parts were just covered and they came out great. I had ordered a new set of regular casters before I saw the 3 inch, perhaps down the line I’ll upgrade.chapmanruss wrote: ↑Fri Sep 10, 2021 12:29 pm Ed, so true,
Have you dried out yet from the heavy rains in the Northeast? Hopefully much of it didn't get to you.If you want stuff to last live in Arizona. If you want life to be 'interesting' live in Florida. But you will hafta deal with something anywhere you live.
John4337,
Your continued efforts are looking great. Have you thought about upgrading to the 3" casters at some point? If so, now would be a good time to add the extra mounting holes to the legs. That way you can simply un-bolt the retractable caster assemblies, replace the casters with the new 3" ones and re-bolt the retractable caster assemblies back on the legs in the new upper holes. If you decide not to add the new holes now it is not a difficult job to do it later when upgrading.
Re: Refurbishing a MkV 510
Big step, I have a base assembly.
Re: Refurbishing a MkV 510
BTW, does anyone know the measurement between the base legs, or do I adjust to the way tubes when I get there?
Thanks.
Thanks.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 34643
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Refurbishing a MkV 510
What measurement?
The bench tubes should be inserted into the base castings so the end of the tube touches a small stop rib.
The bench tube separation is determined by side motion stops in the base casting. The clamp pushes the tubes out against the stops.
The bench tubes should be inserted into the base castings so the end of the tube touches a small stop rib.
The bench tube separation is determined by side motion stops in the base casting. The clamp pushes the tubes out against the stops.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Refurbishing a MkV 510
The end with the tie bar lock has stops, the other base piece didn’t.
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21371
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Re: Refurbishing a MkV 510
Measure the depth of insertion on the other end and match it.
The real test comes when you put the way tubes in. Sink them all the way into the castings, check for square and level (not twisted) and then lock it down. If the locking mechanism isn't smooth you might need to loosen those legs and tweak but I don't expect that will be necessary.
This is the time to be real fussy about about dimensions. Square, plumb, level and tight. It will be easier now because the headstock and carriage are out of the way. It will payoff later when you do the alignments.
Nice work thus far. Don't rush to the end.
BTW - the measurement that you ask about will be very close to 48 3/8" as will be the way tubes.Whatever they are, measure the diagonals for equality.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Re: Refurbishing a MkV 510
[/quote]
Measure the depth of insertion on the other end and match it.
The real test comes when you put the way tubes in. Sink them all the way into the castings, check for square and level (not twisted) and then lock it down. If the locking mechanism isn't smooth you might need to loosen those legs and tweak but I don't expect that will be necessary.
This is the time to be real fussy about about dimensions. Square, plumb, level and tight. It will be easier now because the headstock and carriage are out of the way. It will payoff later when you do the alignments.
Nice work thus far. Don't rush to the end.
BTW - the measurement that you ask about will be very close to 48 3/8" as will be the way tubes.Whatever they are, measure the diagonals for equality.
[/quote]
Thanks very much, gives me a great starting point. The way tubes are cleaning up nicely, some staining, but no pitting, so I think they’ll be good. I still have to dive into the headstock. Based on the S/N, looks like the machine dates to 1984, so I’m sure there’s a lot of work in there.
Measure the depth of insertion on the other end and match it.
The real test comes when you put the way tubes in. Sink them all the way into the castings, check for square and level (not twisted) and then lock it down. If the locking mechanism isn't smooth you might need to loosen those legs and tweak but I don't expect that will be necessary.
This is the time to be real fussy about about dimensions. Square, plumb, level and tight. It will be easier now because the headstock and carriage are out of the way. It will payoff later when you do the alignments.
Nice work thus far. Don't rush to the end.
BTW - the measurement that you ask about will be very close to 48 3/8" as will be the way tubes.Whatever they are, measure the diagonals for equality.
[/quote]
Thanks very much, gives me a great starting point. The way tubes are cleaning up nicely, some staining, but no pitting, so I think they’ll be good. I still have to dive into the headstock. Based on the S/N, looks like the machine dates to 1984, so I’m sure there’s a lot of work in there.