Shopsmith Forums

HopefulSSer wrote: ↑Thu Oct 14, 2021 10:08 am I'm thinking about turning a flute but I don't know how I would go about boring it out. I've seen videos of flute-making on ordinary lathes where a hollow tailstock was used but that doesn't seem to be an option with SS.

How would you approach it?

Thanks!

So, for smaller diameter bits, the lamp drill that Ed (reible) recently posted would work.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26996

To do something like the setup in this video, I think you could make something that would sit in, or clamp to, the tailstock in place of the #2MT eccentric.

Thanks Ron! I like the copper pipe tail piece used in that video to guide the auger bits. Neat idea.

Interesting! That looks quite doable. Thanks!

Hi, OP here. I was kinda looking for how to do it with my Shopsmith, given that this is the Shopsmith forum.

Sorry to be mistrustful, but first-time poster resurrecting an old thread. Hmm. Do I smell processed meat?

Yup! Already on my watch list. Almost a universal SPAMER ploy. They all resurrect a years old post. Don't know why but that is a red flag when that is the first post.

May become spam (eventually) and fer sure bears watching.

And another 'indicator' is weird comments.

It became SPAM today. He added the link on 7 Aug. Reported.

HopefulSSer wrote: ↑Thu Oct 14, 2021 6:48 pm Cheers for the info! Ahead of you on the face shield! Right now I'm using the tools that came with the machine -- a set of old Craftsman turning tools (two sizes of spindle gouges, one or two skew chisels, and a parting tool) and a couple other random ones. They of course needed the rust cleaned off and sharpened but that's not an issue. I've used carbide cutters on metal lathes but not on a hand-held tool. (Though I've seen them used on PBS shows). Certainly something to consider. And I'm not against learning new skills so being able to use both wouldn't be the worst thing....

I'm waiting on some centers now (in addition to the replacement gilmer belt). With the machine I got a live tail center (frozen), a screw center (I used this for the peppermill knob), a Jacobs chuck (less key), and a router chuck. Not the most versatile kit. I have a feeling this machine might exacerbate my TAS (Tool Acquisition Syndrome)

Not to further exacerbate your TAS, but there's whole different way that you could tackle the boring part of the operation. It may or may not be cosmetically acceptable, but it's pretty foolproof.

Starting with a rectangular blank, rip it in two lengthwise in table-saw mode. Now, chuck up a core box router bit in your Shopsmith (or better yet a router table, if you have one). Machine matching semicircular grooves lengthwise along the inner surfaces, and then glue the workpiece back together in its original alignment. Done that way, the stock itself is the only length limitation on the bore, and you don't have to worry about drill-bit drift causing a step in the middle of the bore. The downside, of course, is that you'll have a couple of seams on the outside of your flute. But if you use a fine-grained wood and a thin-kerf saw blade, they may not be very noticeable.

While the glue is still wet, and the workpece in clamps, I'd push a damp wad through the bore to clean out the wet glue, like cleaning a gun barrel. When the glue is dry, I'd turn it between conical centers, just as you suggest. If you have a chuck, you could turn just one end between centers, and then chuck on that end to get more torque to the workpiece.

jsburger wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2023 2:20 pm It became SPAM today. He added the link on 7 Aug. Reported.

Surprise, surprise! ;-) Thanks for catching & reporting. I knew it was coming!

BuckeyeDennis wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2023 3:52 pm Not to further exacerbate your TAS, but there's whole different way that you could tackle the boring part of the operation. It may or may not be cosmetically acceptable, but it's pretty foolproof.

Starting with a rectangular blank, rip it in two lengthwise in table-saw mode. Now, chuck up a core box router bit in your Shopsmith (or better yet a router table, if you have one). Machine matching semicircular grooves lengthwise along the inner surfaces, and then glue the workpiece back together in its original alignment. Done that way, the stock itself is the only length limitation on the bore, and you don't have to worry about drill-bit drift causing a step in the middle of the bore. The downside, of course, is that you'll have a couple of seams on the outside of your flute. But if you use a fine-grained wood and a thin-kerf saw blade, they may not be very noticeable.

While the glue is still wet, and the workpece in clamps, I'd push a damp wad through the bore to clean out the wet glue, like cleaning a gun barrel. When the glue is dry, I'd turn it between conical centers, just as you suggest. If you have a chuck, you could turn just one end between centers, and then chuck on that end to get more torque to the workpiece.

Interesting ideas! Thanks!