Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
We have strayed pretty far afield from the original subject of the thread.
I think you have now ventured into the word "quoin" which is pronounced "coin". In addition to the architectural corner pieces of a building, it is also used to describe things that wedge or level something such the type letters in printing, or the leveling of a barrel on a cannon.
As far a table inserts go, I guess they can be coined, quoined, or just plain old bent (even the wrong way as I have experienced with one of my inserts).
Dennis
Hi Dennis,
Well that certainly explains my architectural question, and maybe the inserts as well! Thank you!
Tim
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I have always thought(for the past almost 1/2 century) that the inserts were concave upward so that when the screws in each end are tightened down all(most) of the surfaces mating between the insert and the table are near zero clearance. This eliminates any vertical movement(independant of the table itself) of the insert under load.
Consider if the "bow" was in the opposite direction(center up). When passing material across the "elevated" center position it would raise stock being cut slightly or at the very least cause some vertical movement above the table depending on the weight of the stock thus causing depth of cut to vary.
As to the "instructions" to tighten one screw to flush then other screw to flush the other end, I think is a well intentioned attempt to over come the intentional design decision to make the insert SLIGHTLY below the table top. If it was "higher" than the table top, it would cause an interference as the stock being cut is advanced from table to the front end of insert(always). The lower back end is only a problem if cutting SMALL stock.
It makes no sense to me to leave the retaining screws "loose"
The table TOP is the plane of reference for all cuts, not the insert unless cutting very small pieces!.
If "flush" fit of insert to table is an absolute need, shim it!:D
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Reible, The insert you made a while back, see post #9. I seem to recall you did these on your CNC machine. I was showing these to a friend at work. He said he could make me some, if he had the CAD file. Do you have the CAD file, and could I possible get this from you?
Pat
Oregon
1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
Sorry I hand did the work using the old OPR... I do have a model in sketch-up but I can not say how close to the real size that is as I most likely just used a tape measure to keep it close.
When I built mine I used transfer punches to get the hole spacing right. Used the front hole as a datum to reference all other measurements. I wouldn't think it would take to much to have someone with a cad package generate the drawing and output the CNC file.
Ed
shydragon wrote:Reible, The insert you made a while back, see post #9. I seem to recall you did these on your CNC machine. I was showing these to a friend at work. He said he could make me some, if he had the CAD file. Do you have the CAD file, and could I possible get this from you?
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
shydragon wrote:Reible, The insert you made a while back, see post #9. I seem to recall you did these on your CNC machine. I was showing these to a friend at work. He said he could make me some, if he had the CAD file. Do you have the CAD file, and could I possible get this from you?
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
The word "Coining" regards a type of metal forming.
Per Wikipedia, "Coining is a form of precision stamping in which a workpiece is subjected to a sufficiently high stress to induce plastic flow on the surface of the material. A beneficial feature is that in some metals, the plastic flow reduces surface grain size, and work hardens the surface, while the material deeper in the part retains its toughness and ductility. The term comes from the initial use of the process: manufacturing of coins.
Coining is used to manufacture parts for all industries and is commonly used when high relief or very fine features are required. For example, it is used to produce coins, badges, buttons, precision-energy springs and precision parts with small or polished surface features.
Coining is a cold working process similar in other respects to forging, which takes place at elevated temperature; it uses a great deal of force to elastically deform a workpiece, so that it conforms to a die. Coining can be done using a gear driven press, a mechanical press, or more commonly, a hydraulically actuated press. Coining typically requires higher tonnage presses than stamping, because the workpiece is elastically deformed and not actually cut, as in some other forms of stamping. The coining process is preferred when there is a high tonnage."
The inserts to my Shopsmith Mark V 500 [S/N 102878] are cast aluminum, with a machined top surface. I suspect that they were first cast, then machined, and finally cold pressed or "coined" to infuse the slight upward "bend" at the ends. The coining process elastically deforms the piece being coined.
