Shopsmith Forums

There are some small boards (6” x 6”) that I want to round over the edges, so I decided to make a router table that I can place on my ShopSmith. I’m just going to do the top for now, so I can finish this other project, but I’m going to complete it with a decent fence and some dust collection. It’s going to be collapsible so I can put it away when I’m not using it, which will likely be most of the time. This will also allow me to make a better top in the future.

In progress:

nice job !

Hobbyman2 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 28, 2021 9:28 pmnice job !

Thank you. More photos are coming soon, as I get closer to completing this project.

While my intention is for this router table to be a temporary solution, until i can either afford a quality table or have the time and money to build something better, I know from experience that temporary can mean 10 or 15 years. It just happens. Anyway, with that in mind, I’m building a simple table that can serve my for an unknown length of time. I’m mostly using scraps I have around or buying bargain scraps or off-cuts from my local hardwood store.

The table top is a 24” x 32” piece of 1” MDF; the front and back table cross-supports are 3/4” x 4” pine; and the mid-table supports are 3/4” cabinet grade plywood (I think).

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I have gotten to use several of my ShopSmith tools that I haven’t used before: my dado saw blade set to make grooves the mid-table support grooves I cut in the bottom of the pine supports; and the adjustable hole cutter I used in drill press mode to cut the bottom half-circle slots in the mid-table supports that fit onto the way tubes.

Last night I drilled, glued, and screwed the front and back cross supports to the bottom of the table.

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Next step will be building the collapsible mid-table support structure. Not exactly sure how I’m going to connect them. I was considering using hinges to connect a back wall to the two vertical support boards, but I’m now thinking about other methods to connect them so they can be easily disassembled. Any suggestions?

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Question: I’m going to finish the table to harden the MDF a little, and then wax it so the wood loses on it. I’ve read that some people like to use a couple coats of shellac for the finish. While I don’t have any shellac I have tung oil finish and was thinking of putting 3 coats of that. What are your thoughts on the finish for this? I’m trying to keep it simple, but also want the table to last as long as I may need it.

Thank you for your help.

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Marc - More info on your plan would help for advising here. I would consider bringing the SS main table closer in and shifting the router table to the 'right' using the SS table system for mid support near the heavy part. But it depends on what type fence you will use. I think your current approach may interfere with many commercial fences. Mine, a JessEm, would interfere with the main table which is why I bring this up. But my guess is you've already thought about this and there is a reason you have the tables the way you have them, just not obvious to me.

One thing I'd advise is to deepen the dados so the MDF rests on the plywood. Your MDF may be better, but SS router table sometimes warp over time due to the weight of a router and the relative weakness caused by cutting the opening for the plate/lift. Mine is one of those. This probably does not happen with router tables like yours that will be installed horizontally only when in use, but it seems like a good practice anyway.

- David

Very nice looking. Very sturdy looking. Very heavy looking too, so I assume you are still young. I know I'll need a real router table some day, and something large like you've made would have to mount on the Shopsmith. Could the main table and an extension table be sufficient support without the two plywood uprights? There is a wider 500 style extension table you could use for a little more support on the right end. In my case I can add floating tables.

Another consideration for only using the tables for support is the Speed Increaser that could make a 500 headstock into a half decent router/shaper. Frankly though, you can buy a very good fully decent router for less than than the cost of that accessory.

It looks great but would be out of the question for me. I doubt that I could mount and un-mount it anymore.

In line with what DLB suggested, also add cross support at the ends to provide support to the mdf top all the way around. NEVER MIND! It is already tight to the tables!

Why attach the mid supports at all? They will work as is(though a bit tricky to set it all up).

Thank you all for the suggestions, I’ll try to answer your questions about my thoughts and design. First, I appreciate that you understand why I posted here in the Beginning Woodworking section; as a newbie I’m still trying to figure out how things work and best practices. At the same time, I like to figure out and design solutions to physical challenges, and in this case with restrictions on both space and money. And yes, I am still a young whippersnapper about to turn 61 in four days. I’m hoping to have an actual workshop with a little more space for a stand alone router table in a few years, when I can retire. I’m trying to keep the weight down while also keeping the top sturdy enough to stay flat over the next few years. That’s why I’m separating the mid-table support structure from the table. I just want the table to sit flat on the plywood supports to support the weight of my Bosch 1617 EVS router.

As for the fence, my immediate plans for the current project is to just clamp some wood to the table so I can round over the edges of a couple of 6” x 6” square boards. Later I plan on either routing slots for sliding bolts or grooves for T track, so I can attach and adjust the fence. I have a fence design I like from Popular Woodworking that I’m currently thinking about building. That will happen after I finish a couple of other projects that have been put on hold.

I am not planning on attaching the mid-table support structure to the table, the table will just sit tightly on the supports. I do plan on notching the tops of the plywood so these supports sit flat on the bottom of the table. I didn’t want to cut the dados any deeper because I’m using the front and back 3/4” pine boards to add structural strength to keep the table flat. I also notched those boards to grip the router table to the ShopSmith tables, which keeps it from sliding in the x-y axis. What I do want to connect are the two plywood support structures to each other so they are easier to setup under the table. That is one reason I want to put a back on it, mailing a three sided box that collapses flat for storage. Therefore I was thinking of using either hinges or a tenon/mortise type of jointer. For my immediate use, to complete the current “on hold” project, I just plan to set them up as shown in the photos above, although fitted a little better than they are now.

I still have a couple of questions:
1. What finish should I use on the top to harden it and make it smoother? I will wax it after finishing to make things slide better. Like I said in my previous post, I currently have Old Masters Tung Oil Varnish and Watco Danish Oil, are either of those good for my needs? I’ve read that many people like to use shellac, but I would need to get some. Your thoughts?

2. Less immediate need; what are your thoughts about how to join the mid-table support structures three sides? Hinges, tenon/mortise style jointery, or something else. Ultimately I plane on completely enclosing the box to add under-table dust collection. The fence design will have dust collection built into it also.

Shellac isnt known for its hardness, it goes on thin is pretty easy to scuff and is not water resistant. On the upside-it is easy to re-apply.

If I were attempting to harden a partially-porous surface like that MDF , I would go with a wood hardener, or a marine epoxy.

b