Mark VII Caster Interference

[miken]

. . . about the only thing I could find that might fit with a 2" wheel is at the link below. . .

Thanks again, that wheel looks very similar to the double wheel low profile 01PO20AB8191YY from CasterCity.

I wasn't really looking for a project or to "reinvent the wheel" (pun intended), but that's what I got. I just wanted to complete the Mark VII with the correct equipment. Somehow the caster assembly I purchased have the wrong wheels. For now I am using the foot lever, rod and cams with my homemade design for the wheel mounting, here: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=25392&p=283521#p283521 which works somewhat, but not as well as it did with my wood lever and blocking device which held the wheel much more rigid. I can always go back to that if I have to. I think if I can re-drill the axle location and move the wheel over closer to the stem centerline some they could work, but that isn't my first choice. I will send some emails and see what they say.

I remember thinking (a year ago), if I can just get this motor working again I will be satisfied", ha ha

Mike -

[JPG]

The 3/8" swivel radius is de 'problem'.

M VII caster dimensions.jpg (377.15 KiB) Viewed 854 times

The 'spacer'/'plug' (509603) appears to be a 10mm hole punch "swarf".

[miken]

The 3/8" swivel radius is de 'problem'.

Well, I figured I didn't really have anything to lose as I can't use the wheels as they are so I cut one down, re-drilled and relocated the wheel. I think it looks pretty close to the picture you posted. I haven't tried mounting it yet, hopefully it will work.
Mike -

Wheels2.jpg (43.03 KiB) Viewed 847 times

[Edit] It's going to work. I mounted it, appears to be plenty of clearance now. I just need to turn some new axle pins.
Thanks for the pictures and dimensions JPG, and I appreciate the replies and links from RF Guy as well.
Mike -

Wheel3.jpg (29.99 KiB) Viewed 839 times

[JPG]

Looks good to me!!!!

[RFGuy]

Mike,

Looks good to me. Just curious where you got the replacement wheel and axle? I didn't think to mention this earlier, but if you can't find a suitable caster replacement, one option is to just replace the wheel. I did that recently on some suitcases that were abused by airport baggage handlers. I was surprised to find many replacement wheels in various sizes that come with two part replacement axles making the repair easy. The hard part was cutting out the old wheel and axle. I just thought I would mention it in case anyone is looking for a caster replacement and having trouble finding one. Just measure the wheel size and try to find a match. Then rebuild the caster instead of a full replacement.

[miken]

. . . Just curious where you got the replacement wheel and axle? . . .

Hi RF Guy, excellent option/suggestion. They are the same wheels that came with the kit I bought off ebay. They just had the wrong part that holds the wheel, but the critical dimension from top of shoulder to bottom of wheel was correct at 2.4 inches, so I just cut off part of it and re-drilled new axle holes closer to the stem centerline. I had to grind off one side of the axle to remove the wheel. I will just make new axles on the metal lathe and either peen the end, or cut a groove for an E clip.
Mike -

[Edit]

Axle

Axle.jpeg (40.99 KiB) Viewed 800 times

Finished Caster

Wheel-Left.jpg (27.91 KiB) Viewed 800 times

Decided to use a snap ring, the E clips were too big.

Wheel-Right.jpg (35.77 KiB) Viewed 800 times

[bstanfield]

Hello everyone. I’ve not posted here, or if I have, don’t remember and its definitely been a while. As I’ve now retired and begun restarting my Shopsmith use I installed the upgraded casters. It came with the metal bar used for proper placing of the new holes in the legs. Being particularly careful, they are exactly as specified. I love the easier rolling and that’s fine. However, my new concrete floor is not dead flat. Unless you do a lot of super close work, most concrete in workshops is not necessarily perfectly level. Mine is not perfect but very, very close. What I’ve found is that the clearance between the bottom of the legs and the concrete is insufficient to clear in some selected spots. It’s not noticeable and if I put a straight edge on it, maybe 1/16” or less. The wheels apparently are not lifting the legs enough as they just barely clear even on a dead flat surface. Since I’ve already drilled holes for the new casters and the difference is not enough to redrill, (it will result in a rounded/wobbled out hole), can the casters or other components be adjusted to lift a tad higher? I don’t have access to check for myself until next week. The Pinterest link back to this forum is welcome and I’d forgotten about signing up long ago. Now that I’m back, any help or pointers on how to remedy the leg dragging will make it easier and safer. I’m afraid of toppling the Shopsmith if I hit a snag.

[JPG]

The Mark 5/V casters should raise the SS off the floor by 1/8" and 1/4" in the two raised positions respectively.

There is no adjustment other than the location(mounting holes).

1/16" indicates severe mis placement???????? That IS the second position??? That implies no clearance in the first position????

[dusty]

Hello everyone. I’ve not posted here, or if I have, don’t remember and its definitely been a while. As I’ve now retired and begun restarting my Shopsmith use I installed the upgraded casters. It came with the metal bar used for proper placing of the new holes in the legs. Being particularly careful, they are exactly as specified. I love the easier rolling and that’s fine. However, my new concrete floor is not dead flat. Unless you do a lot of super close work, most concrete in workshops is not necessarily perfectly level. Mine is not perfect but very, very close. What I’ve found is that the clearance between the bottom of the legs and the concrete is insufficient to clear in some selected spots. It’s not noticeable and if I put a straight edge on it, maybe 1/16” or less. The wheels apparently are not lifting the legs enough as they just barely clear even on a dead flat surface. Since I’ve already drilled holes for the new casters and the difference is not enough to redrill, (it will result in a rounded/wobbled out hole), can the casters or other components be adjusted to lift a tad higher? I don’t have access to check for myself until next week. The Pinterest link back to this forum is welcome and I’d forgotten about signing up long ago. Now that I’m back, any help or pointers on how to remedy the leg dragging will make it easier and safer. I’m afraid of toppling the Shopsmith if I hit a snag.

I would sure like to see a drawing with dimensions of that metal bar (drill guide).

I would suggest that you install one or two flat washers on each of the caster stems. This would raise the Mark by the thickness of the installed washers at each of the positions (including full down).

In the full down position the wheels on mine actually contact the floor but do not support any weight. I can rotate the casters by hand without moving the Mark.

I hope this helps.

[techy2493]

Hello everyone. I’ve not posted here, or if I have, don’t remember and its definitely been a while. As I’ve now retired and begun restarting my Shopsmith use I installed the upgraded casters. It came with the metal bar used for proper placing of the new holes in the legs. Being particularly careful, they are exactly as specified. I love the easier rolling and that’s fine. However, my new concrete floor is not dead flat. Unless you do a lot of super close work, most concrete in workshops is not necessarily perfectly level. Mine is not perfect but very, very close. What I’ve found is that the clearance between the bottom of the legs and the concrete is insufficient to clear in some selected spots. It’s not noticeable and if I put a straight edge on it, maybe 1/16” or less. The wheels apparently are not lifting the legs enough as they just barely clear even on a dead flat surface. Since I’ve already drilled holes for the new casters and the difference is not enough to redrill, (it will result in a rounded/wobbled out hole), can the casters or other components be adjusted to lift a tad higher? I don’t have access to check for myself until next week. The Pinterest link back to this forum is welcome and I’d forgotten about signing up long ago. Now that I’m back, any help or pointers on how to remedy the leg dragging will make it easier and safer. I’m afraid of toppling the Shopsmith if I hit a snag.

I would sure like to see a drawing with dimensions of that metal bar (drill guide).

I would suggest that you install one or two flat washers on each of the caster stems. This would raise the Mark by the thickness of the installed washers at each of the positions (including full down).

In the full down position the wheels on mine actually contact the floor but do not support any weight. I can rotate the casters by hand without moving the Mark.

I hope this helps.

Sorry to necro an old thread but I just found this on a search and am having the exact problem above, with the exception that I bought a Shopsmith Mark V with the upgraded casters installed and find they're not quite in the right place on one side. I wanted to thank you for making such a great and simple suggested solution. I'll try this myself this week!