Shopsmith Forums

I set up my fence for horizontal boring so it supported table legs, with a boring operation for holes to hold adjustable feet threaded inserts. The miter gauge was locked in place so the bottom of the leg was, with table height adjustments, centered for the bore on the bottom. The depth was set on the quill stop and I used a brad point 1/2" bit (good quality and sharp). It's end-grain drilling, so I knew there'd be added force. However, the force would push the fence out of square by moving the rear of it back as I fed the bit with the quill. I adjusted it twice per the manual, and finally gave up and clamped a block on the right side of the extension table to support the table legs. Shouldn't the fence be stout enough to deal with this kind of force? The two phillips head screws were tight, and the far end fence hold was firm against the tube.

Horizontal boring puts a lot of force on the fence, especially with larger bits. I have the 520 fence and have experienced slippage and dealt with it by placing a clamp behind the fence, as you did. But adjusting the clamping force should be the solution.

I have run into this before on a 510. The quill feed is geared and exerts a lot of force when applied. I have often found it necessary to clamp a stop board down if not the board I am boring. I have not attempted to tighten the fence sufficiently to stop it from moving, I don't think it was intended to be clamped down that tightly.

Shouldn't the fence be stout enough to deal with this kind of force?

NO !! Plain and simple . JMO add a brace or support or a stop , a clamp , 2 clamps , or clamp a board across the back as a stop . a good fence does not a good stop make . I would be surprised if you didnt bow the fence . I would check it for straightness . JMO

Well maybe this is where a M5 or V 500 is gooder than later models.

I have done that often and have never had the rear clamp move.

The 500 clamp locks down quite a bit tighter. The body of the fence is a heavier on the 500, and for the shorter span is much stronger. As mentioned above, you could bend your 510 fence if you can tighten it enough to stand up to the quill. The 510 fence was certainly not made for that purpose. I don't know how well the 520 fence would hold up but I don't think it's a good idea to treat a good fence that way.

The manual says to use the fence as a backstop for stock 30" long or less. But it does say to use the safety grip on the miter gauge in conjunction with it. It's a 520 manual but the pics show a 510 fence. I think you'd want to apply some judgment here depending on how hard you're pushing on the quill feed. An alternative might be to raise the extension table a bit higher than the main and use the edge of the table as a backstop. If the length works. Probably best with extension tubes to minimize flex.

- David