1995 Shopsmith 510 Purchase

[KCollins]

Also everyone is saying wax it. Do I just use that Paste Wax that I use on the Way Tubes to keep them from rusting?

[KCollins]

Also on the top of the headstock where the screw is to release the quill is the filler of some kind. Is that just a piece of plastic I dig out of there or is there a trick?

[Majones1]

Also on the top of the headstock where the screw is to release the quill is the filler of some kind. Is that just a piece of plastic I dig out of there or is there a trick?

There is a ShopSmith Sawdust Session where Nick Engler shows how to remove the quill, and he calls that filler “ackumpucky”, and yes, it’s just a filler that you have to pick out of the hole. It still being there obviously indicates that the quill had never been removed. That screw is used as a stop for the quill extension and it does not get tightened down, it just rides in the groove on the top of the quill. After you reinstall the quill, you will need to adjust the screw so that it does not put pressure on the quill, but will perform as the extension stop.

Yes, Johnson Paste Wax is used on the quill. As I recall, there is only one place on the ShopSmith where a very small amount of grease is suggested to be used, and that is on the spline that sticks out the back of the quill, which slides into the drive shaft as you reinstall the quill. You’ll need to turn the shaft a little bit so they re-engage as you retract the quill.

[DLB]

Also everyone is saying wax it. Do I just use that Paste Wax that I use on the Way Tubes to keep them from rusting?

Johnson's Paste Wax (JPW) Original or equivalent from other makers. Protection and lubrication, pretty much everywhere with metal-to-metal or metal-to-wood sliding contact where you want the parts to move easier. For example for your table height issue, you'd do the tubes and the bores on the carriage. I wax the headstock and carriage way tube bores but pretty rarely, only if I have them off for some reason.

Yes, just dig the gunk out of the quill setscrew. I drilled one once with a small bit and that made it easier just to get it started, but I still had to scrape the small bits out with a pick. There is also a setscrew on the top of the depth stop for the quill that usually has the same treatment. If you use a drill select a bit that just fits inside the setscrew and only drill the soft stuff. And keep the drill square so you don't ding the threads.

JPG might have meant a pic of the rear wedge lock taken from the outside of the headstock. It's easy to see if it is going to the unlocked position there.

- David

[KCollins]

Not to over think this but apply the wax liberally or lightly? Leave it on after application or wipe it off?

I'll get the pic from the outside of the headstock for the lock wedge. Hang on a sec.

[KCollins]

Ya know looking at this you can see marks on the lock lever where someone put some channel locks or something to really tighten that down.

IMG_3864.jpg (137.31 KiB) Viewed 1190 times

The wedge on my other SS isn't sucked in near as far at this one is.

IMG_3863.jpg (211.66 KiB) Viewed 1190 times

[DLB]

The rear lock isn't in the unlocked position in that pic. The wedge part would be proud of the casting, like your front one is. IIWM I'd try cleaning it around the edges with a pick or scribe and compressed air, then pop it in the center with hand or mallet again while unlocked. If that doesn't work, maybe soak with penetrating oil and try again.(?) I've never had one that didn't release when I popped it with my palm, this is new territory for me. So if someone else has a better idea listen to them.

Channel locks weren't the best approach. Possible that the wedge locks weren't preset right when installed(?) and weren't locking right.

When I wax I use a small amount and rub it in pretty well, then buff by hand as soon as it dries (maybe five minutes). If using a powered buffer you can let it dry more, but I usually buff by hand.

- David

[KCollins]

Okay so tap it on the lever (front) side to push the back wedge out so it's proud like the lever side?

[DLB]

Okay so tap it on the lever (front) side to push the back wedge out so it's proud like the lever side?

Yes, with the headstock lock as loose as possible. It likely will loosen more if/when the rear wedge-lock breaks free.

Congratulations on your new Mark 7.

- David

[KCollins]

Well I went and stepped in it. LOL.... I was finally able to get the headstock lock loose and move the headstock. So I turned my attention to the Quill. Came out like a breeze. But the assembly that moves the quill is still very tight and has to be forced to move. That's when I saw the filler cap for another set screw above the depth gauge for the drill press. So I unscrewed it... 3 turns and to my horror I hear the spring unwind on the shaft. It didn't break anything but I undid something. I hope it's nothing too difficult to get back together. I tried pulling the shaft out but it is catching on something and I'm not seeing what that could be in the diagram in the owner's manual. Do I need to take that spring assembly off before I can pull that shaft out?