Parts for "new" 1987 510

[SteveMaryland]

Here are photos of the McMaster 4698T91 t-rail connector. Shown next to the Shopsmith standard connector.

Holes are sloppy in both connectors because they are designed to clear a "nominal" 3/4" Schedule 40 pipe, which is actually 1.05" OD. Shopsmith rail is 1.00" OD tubing. Setscrews take up the slop, so keeping them tightened up is important for safety.

Note that the vertical bore on the standard connector (the bore that the leg plugs into) is stopped but is a thru bore on the 4698T91. So on the 4698T91 connector, the leg can block the horizontal bore if not properly positioned.

Note the difference in setscrew location and quantity. Will this ever pose a problem?

Also a photo of the improved rubber foot on the Shopsmith 514529 telescoping leg.

Have not used these on a job yet, but I was never a fan of wobbly outboard legs, and I think these are improvements that will add more rigidity and safety in outboard setups and operations.

[larryhrockisland]

Here are photos of the McMaster 4698T91 t-rail connector. Shown next to the Shopsmith standard connector.

Holes are sloppy in both connectors because they are designed to clear a "nominal" 3/4" Schedule 40 pipe, which is actually 1.05" OD. Shopsmith rail is 1.00" OD tubing. Setscrews take up the slop, so keeping them tightened up is important for safety.

Note that the vertical bore on the standard connector (the bore that the leg plugs into) is stopped but is a thru bore on the 4698T91. So on the 4698T91 connector, the leg can block the horizontal bore if not properly positioned.

Note the difference in setscrew location and quantity. Will this ever pose a problem?
It looks like the set screw is in top of the solid tee. That could create burrs that might drag in the 520 rails. I try to keep my rails oriented the same and any burrs are on the side where there is no contact with 520 rails when tightened.

Also a photo of the improved rubber foot on the Shopsmith 514529 telescoping leg.

Have not used these on a job yet, but I was never a fan of wobbly outboard legs, and I think these are improvements that will add more rigidity and safety in outboard setups and operations.
Do you think the solid tee would be an issue when the table is tilted? Might be handy to have both types for either scenario.

[SteveMaryland]

I suppose that is what the swivel tee is for - outboard leg support when table is tilted. So keep the swivel tees around for use in such (blessedly rare) cases.

The best of both worlds would be a swivel tee that could be setscrew-locked at any angular position. I just don't like those swivel tees wobbling around while I am sawing long work, and 99 percent of my long work (where I might need outboard support) is done with the table level. And roller stands used wherever possible.

[JPG]

If one desires a larger foot print, crutch tips will fit(BTDT) Use washer to prevent hollow tube from embedding in the tip.

[larryhrockisland]

I bought two of these at Lowe's. I will change the rivet to get a less sloppy fit. The set screws are very big but the price was right.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SteelTek-3-4-i ... 1000494939

I got my version of Geoff Baker’s “Shopsmith Speedleg” done using the swivel tees from Lowe’s.

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