Hello--
I have just inherited a ShopSmith from my grandpa that was sold to him in 1954--the serial number is 285849. It has green paint so I'm pretty sure it was the original model of the Mark V. It took some tuning up to get it running well again (it sat in storage for about 20 years) but I am impressed how nicely it cuts!
It was set up as a table saw and looks to have the ability to be used as a lathe, disk sander, borer, and drill press and has the scrollsaw attachment.
One problem that I have noticed right away is that there is no protection around the blade of the table saw--on top or on the bottom. This makes the saw pretty dangerous and also causes sawdust to fly everywhere whenever I use it.
I was thinking of purchasing the Upper and Lower Saw Guard Assembly but I started wondering if there was a package that I should be purchasing that might provide more features for the cost.
I'd love to get your feedback on what I should add to my ShopSmith to "bring it up to date". Would the 510 kit be a good idea?
Thanks!
Paul
Updates to an Original ShopSmith
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ppurington
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dusty
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Updates to an Original Shopsmith
You have what I would consider a "Treasure". As a tribute to your Grandfather, I recommend that you give serious consideration to the previous recommendation; upgrade your "Greenie" to a 520.
By all means, whatever else you do, make that puppy safe. You need upper and lower blade guards.
You also need to study some manuals so that you are able to care for this treasure as it should be cared for. If you don't have the manuals, most of the info is available on this forum or from http://www.shopsmith.com or http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/productmanuals.htm
but I would also recommend that you purchase the manuals. You won't find equipment any better documented than the Shopsmith.
Welcome to the Forum. Keep us posted on your progress. Call on us if there is anything else you need.
___________________
Making Sawdust Safely
By all means, whatever else you do, make that puppy safe. You need upper and lower blade guards.
You also need to study some manuals so that you are able to care for this treasure as it should be cared for. If you don't have the manuals, most of the info is available on this forum or from http://www.shopsmith.com or http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/productmanuals.htm
but I would also recommend that you purchase the manuals. You won't find equipment any better documented than the Shopsmith.
Welcome to the Forum. Keep us posted on your progress. Call on us if there is anything else you need.
___________________
Making Sawdust Safely
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chiroindixon
- Gold Member
- Posts: 233
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 1:42 pm
- Location: QCA Iowa
I did it...
Last year I rescued my neighbor's dads' original 1954 Magna. It was in sad shape but with the help of "Jan" at SS, it's all restored.
I upgraded straight to the 520. My first 520 I bought new in '98 so I wanted interchangeable parts/tables. I did however take my time and slowly hunted the parts off eBay. The only parts I bought from SS were a "square" 520 tube or two.
I just looked this morning for you....but the eBay cupboard was bare. Seems like a lot of other guys did a 520 upgrade recently. There are lots of older tables and carriages for sale. They are making a mistake. They make terrific adjustable infeed/outfeed/extension tables. I built two. One from the original Magna parts, then bought parts for second off eBay. I posted this suggestion here months ago.
One strong suggestion while you are repairing and upgrading.... Take the time and money to service the head stock completely. At that age, the belts are more than likely dry rotted, your inside will have dust and bugs, and a good cleaning and proper lube is in order. Mine certainly was. Original belts shredded with very short use and the speed controller was stripped out.
Having first serviced this old machine the hard way.....(the SS logo on those models does NOT swing open to help service), I found that it much easier to pull the entire head stock off the tubes, then place head stock on work table. Drop the pan....and it's open for much easier access. You'll be pulling the headstock off anyway should you make that 520 upgrade. The old carriage is replaced with a much larger one.
Another hint. Before I popped off the base (504144), jack and support those tubes. Then cut a piece of plywood to wedge between bench and way tubes to act as a spacer. It'll make the replacement of the headstock much easier.
Good luck and enjoy....Doc
HEY....Who finally put the spell check feature in?!! Hurray....and thanks.
I upgraded straight to the 520. My first 520 I bought new in '98 so I wanted interchangeable parts/tables. I did however take my time and slowly hunted the parts off eBay. The only parts I bought from SS were a "square" 520 tube or two.
I just looked this morning for you....but the eBay cupboard was bare. Seems like a lot of other guys did a 520 upgrade recently. There are lots of older tables and carriages for sale. They are making a mistake. They make terrific adjustable infeed/outfeed/extension tables. I built two. One from the original Magna parts, then bought parts for second off eBay. I posted this suggestion here months ago.
One strong suggestion while you are repairing and upgrading.... Take the time and money to service the head stock completely. At that age, the belts are more than likely dry rotted, your inside will have dust and bugs, and a good cleaning and proper lube is in order. Mine certainly was. Original belts shredded with very short use and the speed controller was stripped out.
Having first serviced this old machine the hard way.....(the SS logo on those models does NOT swing open to help service), I found that it much easier to pull the entire head stock off the tubes, then place head stock on work table. Drop the pan....and it's open for much easier access. You'll be pulling the headstock off anyway should you make that 520 upgrade. The old carriage is replaced with a much larger one.
Another hint. Before I popped off the base (504144), jack and support those tubes. Then cut a piece of plywood to wedge between bench and way tubes to act as a spacer. It'll make the replacement of the headstock much easier.
Good luck and enjoy....Doc
HEY....Who finally put the spell check feature in?!! Hurray....and thanks.
Paul;
I've got a Copper/Gold '61 and I'm slowly but surely finding the special purpose tools in the matching color scheme, those being the bandsaw, beltsander, etc. The only reason I've not upgraded to the 520 table/fence system is because I've got a lot of stand alone machinery and don't really need to. However, I'm planning on it one of these days just because I love my SS and occaisionally I'll just "Shopsmith out", meaning I use only my SS. One thing I will do when I upgrade to the 520 is take the new carriage and sandblast the modern grey paint off of it and repaint it in the Copper/Gold scheme so it matches the rest of my machine.
If you can't get the 520 system just yet (it is a bit pricey, wait for one of the good sales!!), then I would strongly urge you to get the Model 500 saw guard upgrade from Shopsmith. You can occaisionally find a complete set on eBay but, when it comes to safety I, personally, would much rather have something new with the OEM manual and installation instructions. I wouldn't want to take the risk of buying used safety apparatus that, while the seller may be completely honest, may not realize that he/she has not included all of the parts, etc. in the sale.
I've got a Copper/Gold '61 and I'm slowly but surely finding the special purpose tools in the matching color scheme, those being the bandsaw, beltsander, etc. The only reason I've not upgraded to the 520 table/fence system is because I've got a lot of stand alone machinery and don't really need to. However, I'm planning on it one of these days just because I love my SS and occaisionally I'll just "Shopsmith out", meaning I use only my SS. One thing I will do when I upgrade to the 520 is take the new carriage and sandblast the modern grey paint off of it and repaint it in the Copper/Gold scheme so it matches the rest of my machine.
If you can't get the 520 system just yet (it is a bit pricey, wait for one of the good sales!!), then I would strongly urge you to get the Model 500 saw guard upgrade from Shopsmith. You can occaisionally find a complete set on eBay but, when it comes to safety I, personally, would much rather have something new with the OEM manual and installation instructions. I wouldn't want to take the risk of buying used safety apparatus that, while the seller may be completely honest, may not realize that he/she has not included all of the parts, etc. in the sale.
Eric
Rock Creek Designs
Win if you can, lose if you must, but always cheat!
Rock Creek Designs
Win if you can, lose if you must, but always cheat!
Paul
Congrats, on the old Green ShopSmith. I too have just inherited a 1960 version, but am not a stranger to SS as we have had them in our garage since I was 2. My dad had an old green and recently got a 97 version. My aunt had a brown one which I got and an uncle had an old SawSmith. The one I pulled out of my aunt's basement was copper/brown and loaded with bandsaw, jointer, Magna scroll saw, Magna belt sander and Yuba mortise jig. Best of all, I got the original documentation for every piece. I have been going through tools one at a time before I run them up and start using anything. Cleaning and lubricating every moving component is my focus. Tonight after a 3 day weekend the bandsaw ran for the 1st time, the belt sander has been an issue though. I am interested to hear to hear what everyone has to say about restoration of the headstock. Mine works fine right now but is bound to have some of the same issues as the other tools I've tuned up and I am interested in keeping it original.
Fred
Congrats, on the old Green ShopSmith. I too have just inherited a 1960 version, but am not a stranger to SS as we have had them in our garage since I was 2. My dad had an old green and recently got a 97 version. My aunt had a brown one which I got and an uncle had an old SawSmith. The one I pulled out of my aunt's basement was copper/brown and loaded with bandsaw, jointer, Magna scroll saw, Magna belt sander and Yuba mortise jig. Best of all, I got the original documentation for every piece. I have been going through tools one at a time before I run them up and start using anything. Cleaning and lubricating every moving component is my focus. Tonight after a 3 day weekend the bandsaw ran for the 1st time, the belt sander has been an issue though. I am interested to hear to hear what everyone has to say about restoration of the headstock. Mine works fine right now but is bound to have some of the same issues as the other tools I've tuned up and I am interested in keeping it original.
Fred
Fred:
Like you I recently was given an older shopsmith, albeit a neglected one. I just finished re-building my '61 headstock, and armed with the info about changing a gilmore / poly-v belt, it was not terribly difficult. With regard to the quill / drive assembly, there were 3 bearings to replace (my year had the poly-v belt and single-bearing quill; earlier years have a gilmore belt drive that shopsmith recommends upgrading to the poly-v belt drive assembly). The motor has two internal bearings (see my posting about replacing motor bearings / cleaning in the recent motor thread). I did not feel the need to replace the bearings on my speed control / idler shaft.
Since one ends up dissassembling most of the machine anyways, it makes sense to take it all apart and clean everything. I used Boeshield T-9 and Rust Off to clean and protect the metal parts. Rusted / discolored shaft ends were cleaned up with a wire brush in my 6" grinder. I sent my headstock through the dishwasher (while my wife was asleep), and ended up repainting everything with rustoleum hammered gold and copper paints. Then I HAD to re-paint the chipped red on the logo plate, which meant I HAD to repaint the red on the speed control dial. As you can see, once started, it was hard to stop. If you like taking things apart, the whole project is a very enjoyable way to learn about the machine, and as a bonus, end up with a like-new headstock.
Of course, I couldn't put the re-built headstock on those rusty pipes and chipped castings and legs, and then there was the rust on the casters, and well ....a couple of weeks later..... I had everything de-rusted, repainted, and reassembled. I learned alot about using electrolysis for rust removal on the legs and pipes (GREAT system..and it removes loose paint, too). I love the gold/copper color scheme and am now thinking about moving on to my accessories.
The great thing about the Mark V is that it is VERY well documented in the owner's manuals, and shopsmith customer service is very helpful if you have any problems. Parts are readily available, both new and used, as well as info. They are beautifully designed machines.
Robert
Like you I recently was given an older shopsmith, albeit a neglected one. I just finished re-building my '61 headstock, and armed with the info about changing a gilmore / poly-v belt, it was not terribly difficult. With regard to the quill / drive assembly, there were 3 bearings to replace (my year had the poly-v belt and single-bearing quill; earlier years have a gilmore belt drive that shopsmith recommends upgrading to the poly-v belt drive assembly). The motor has two internal bearings (see my posting about replacing motor bearings / cleaning in the recent motor thread). I did not feel the need to replace the bearings on my speed control / idler shaft.
Since one ends up dissassembling most of the machine anyways, it makes sense to take it all apart and clean everything. I used Boeshield T-9 and Rust Off to clean and protect the metal parts. Rusted / discolored shaft ends were cleaned up with a wire brush in my 6" grinder. I sent my headstock through the dishwasher (while my wife was asleep), and ended up repainting everything with rustoleum hammered gold and copper paints. Then I HAD to re-paint the chipped red on the logo plate, which meant I HAD to repaint the red on the speed control dial. As you can see, once started, it was hard to stop. If you like taking things apart, the whole project is a very enjoyable way to learn about the machine, and as a bonus, end up with a like-new headstock.
Of course, I couldn't put the re-built headstock on those rusty pipes and chipped castings and legs, and then there was the rust on the casters, and well ....a couple of weeks later..... I had everything de-rusted, repainted, and reassembled. I learned alot about using electrolysis for rust removal on the legs and pipes (GREAT system..and it removes loose paint, too). I love the gold/copper color scheme and am now thinking about moving on to my accessories.
The great thing about the Mark V is that it is VERY well documented in the owner's manuals, and shopsmith customer service is very helpful if you have any problems. Parts are readily available, both new and used, as well as info. They are beautifully designed machines.
Robert
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ppurington
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sun Feb 11, 2007 10:38 pm
- Location: Shakopee, MN
Thanks!
Thanks for the great responses. I was wondering how I should clean it and I even got advice for that!
There are some challenges to maintaining the old model because the nameplate does not open and it looks like the headstock is one solid piece.
I will probably go ahead and buy the saw guards and then watch EBay or watch for sales to upgrade it to a 520.
There are some challenges to maintaining the old model because the nameplate does not open and it looks like the headstock is one solid piece.
I will probably go ahead and buy the saw guards and then watch EBay or watch for sales to upgrade it to a 520.
New
Hi,
I am just like several of you guys here. This is a great site and sounds like my kind of guys. I am a retired sheetmetal apprentice instructor who is willing to share my knowlege. Do not hesitate to ask...
I am familiar with Shopsmith but that is it. Last October I had the previlege to inherit a ER-10 which was purchased by Dr. Kenneth MacDonald of Iowa State. (sn# R47415) Since that time I have inherited 3/4 of another ER-10 and a Mark V. (sn#301941)
Both of the later need to be restored. They are sharing with a '46 chevy pickup and (2) elcaminos. I am happy to report there are no fighting among these occupants.
Robert (Bob)
drsmtl
I am just like several of you guys here. This is a great site and sounds like my kind of guys. I am a retired sheetmetal apprentice instructor who is willing to share my knowlege. Do not hesitate to ask...
I am familiar with Shopsmith but that is it. Last October I had the previlege to inherit a ER-10 which was purchased by Dr. Kenneth MacDonald of Iowa State. (sn# R47415) Since that time I have inherited 3/4 of another ER-10 and a Mark V. (sn#301941)
Both of the later need to be restored. They are sharing with a '46 chevy pickup and (2) elcaminos. I am happy to report there are no fighting among these occupants.
Robert (Bob)
drsmtl
Don't be put off too much by the absence of the removable nameplate. It is easy to slide the belt cover back to get into the machine, and it really isn't that difficult to drop the motor pan, especially if you have it in drill press mode (vertical). The motor drive belt is easy to take off if you follow the servicing instructions, and with the motor out of the way you can do a much better job of cleaning the interior of the casting.
I was a little gun shy about dissassembling the machine, but as noted elsewhere in the forum, the documentation on this machine is great, the shopsmith tech support people are great if you run into a problem, and people on this forum are a wonderful resource.
Sometimes the best way to learn is to jump in, knowing that there are others around who can "save" you if you feel like you are drowning! In this case, I would FIRST make sure you get the manuals and PTWFE mentioned above; you will be amazed at how helpful they are, both for the Mark V and the accessory tools.
I was a little gun shy about dissassembling the machine, but as noted elsewhere in the forum, the documentation on this machine is great, the shopsmith tech support people are great if you run into a problem, and people on this forum are a wonderful resource.
Sometimes the best way to learn is to jump in, knowing that there are others around who can "save" you if you feel like you are drowning! In this case, I would FIRST make sure you get the manuals and PTWFE mentioned above; you will be amazed at how helpful they are, both for the Mark V and the accessory tools.