Start trips breaker

[JACOBEIS]

I have gotten it to work for about 30 seconds by taking off the belt opening the motor Sheaves with my hand putting a small piece of wood to keep it separated closing the upper Sheaves putting the belt back on the motor took out the wood and turned it on.
then it ran for about 30 seconds before the motor Sheaves began to close and the circuit trips

As some one asked I don not have it on a GFCI it wired straight thru to my Electrical Panel with a 20 Amp Breaker I even bought a new breaker as I heard if a breaker trips too often you have to change it.

And as for my Electrical Cord it in good condition, and with no belt on my motor it runs for ever and is very quiet.

I have been using 3 in 1 oil to oil all shafts and any hole and the bearings.
what would changing the Motor bearings have to do with the Motor Sheaves separating. When the Motor Sheaves close the belt riding over the top of the Sheaves but JUST A TOUCH

What is the first thing I should change the Belt, or the Motor Bearings or the bearings on the upper Poly V belt, any other suggestion?

I would like to thank all of you for your suggestions.

[dusty]

I wish I had something intelligent to offer. You have done most all of what I might do with no success.

If I had to solve this, my next step would be "to a motor shop" (someone who can measure field current under load).

[Hobbyman2]

JMO . in my experience with belts , when they go bad they slip , even smell burnt . when the sheaves are open that should be slow speed . when they are closed that should be high speed , you say your sheave closes on its own ? or am I not understanding the situation ?? they should be open when you start the machine "dial set on slow" . the high speeds are for routing and shaping and not so much for sawing . pretty sure the manual says start the machine on slow , when you are done cutting adjust the speed control to slow before you shut it off . jmo

[Hobbyman2]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H792xf78loU

[DLB]

I have gotten it to work for about 30 seconds by taking off the belt opening the motor Sheaves with my hand putting a small piece of wood to keep it separated closing the upper Sheaves putting the belt back on the motor took out the wood and turned it on.
then it ran for about 30 seconds before the motor Sheaves began to close and the circuit trips

Something here is abnormal. The sheaves should have closed to contact the belt as soon as you took out the wood block. Then they should not have moved again except in response to a speed change. If it is not closing to contact the belt as soon as you remove the wood block that is most likely excessive friction between motor shaft and floating sheave. If lubrication didn't solve it, I would remove the sheaves and clean/polish the motor shaft and clean bore inside floating sheave. Inspect everything. Reassemble and lubricate shaft. If it is closing to contact the belt then moving more 30 seconds later, is the control sheave on the idler shaft moving, either in response to a speed change or on its own?

As some one asked I don not have it on a GFCI it wired straight thru to my Electrical Panel with a 20 Amp Breaker I even bought a new breaker as I heard if a breaker trips too often you have to change it.

And as for my Electrical Cord it in good condition, and with no belt on my motor it runs for ever and is very quiet.

I have been using 3 in 1 oil to oil all shafts and any hole and the bearings.
what would changing the Motor bearings have to do with the Motor Sheaves separating. When the Motor Sheaves close the belt riding over the top of the Sheaves but JUST A TOUCH

Belt position you are reporting is in relation to Idler or Motor sheaves, just to be clear?

What is the first thing I should change the Belt, or the Motor Bearings or the bearings on the upper Poly V belt, any other suggestion?

With the motor turned off but belts on, can you turn the headstock by hand using only the knurled knob on the quill spindle? Is it quiet when you do so? This is an attempt to rule mechanical resistance in or out as a contributor or cause.

I would like to thank all of you for your suggestions.

What age and version is your machine, and how long have you had it? Mostly I'm just wondering 3/4 HP or 1-1/8 HP motor, but others may be wondering for other reasons and this is just good to know for background.

Unfortunately, a problem like this can be caused by excessive mechanical resistance, excessive electrical resistance, the motor itself, or outside factors. Mechanical resistance seems to me to be the easiest to eliminate or confirm, though its still subjective.

- David

[dusty]

JMO . in my experience with belts , when they go bad they slip , even smell burnt . when the sheaves are open that should be slow speed . when they are closed that should be high speed , you say your sheave closes on its own ? or am I not understanding the situation ?? they should be open when you start the machine "dial set on slow" . the high speeds are for routing and shaping and not so much for sawing . pretty sure the manual says start the machine on slow , when you are done cutting adjust the speed control to slow before you shut it off . jmo

To avoid confusion you must be specific!!! Which sheaves?

[john_001]

I have gotten it to work for about 30 seconds by taking off the belt opening the motor Sheaves with my hand putting a small piece of wood to keep it separated closing the upper Sheaves putting the belt back on the motor took out the wood and turned it on.
then it ran for about 30 seconds before the motor Sheaves began to close and the circuit trips

Why are the motor sheaves closing if the speed control is set on slow? On slow, the upper sheaves should be pretty much fully closed with the belt riding at the rims and the motor sheaves open to the point where the belt rides at the bottom of the sheaves. Are you saying that with the speed set on slow and the upper sheaves closed, the motor sheaves start closing up on the belt by themselves? When the breaker trips, how tight is the belt? You should be able to flex the belt about 1/4" with a finger. If the upper and motor sheaves are both closed, the belt would be rock hard and too tight.

[dusty]

I could probably read the thread and find the answer but this is the easy way.

With the belt installed on the sheaves and the power plug removed -- have you tried turning the speed control while simultaneously spinning the saw blade (or preferably a sanding disk)? If you can do this and the belt changes position in the sheaves, move the belt to about half way (mid-range on the speed dial). Now plug it in and turn it on. Does it run?

[dusty]

JACOBETS

A couple questions (as I again reread this thread):

1. When you remove the belt, where do you have the speed control set?

2. When you have the belt on and the speed control set to "slow", how wide apart are the lower (floating and fan) sheaves?

3. You say that with the motor sheaves pulled apart manually it will run until the motor sheaves close. How do you run it while holding the sheaves apart? The spring should expand immediately (closing the motor sheaves on the belt) when the manual force that is holding it open is relaxed.

As a word of caution, when pulling the motor sheaves apart do not let them close abruptly. Allow them to close "SLOWLY". If they close under full force of the spring there is a possibility of damage.

[JPG]

The floating sheave travel should be about equal to the belt width. Dusty's drawing shows 9/16" travel.

I posted that not realizing the 5th page existed. Still true!

As has been pointed out, the floating sheave should close immediately when released.

IF it is taking 30 sec to close then the floating sheave is not free, but dragging(binding).

IF when the floating sheave closes the breaker trips, that indicates the motor cannot deliver sufficient mechanical power to the drive train(idler shaft etc. and quill etc.).

As has been requested, what motor do you have(3/4 or 1 1/8)?