Hello All,
I've had my ShopSmith for 4 months and use it primarily to turn wooden bowls. I have completed 5 or 6 but my 7th and 8th would not true up? The vibrations were so bad that it bounced the machine across the floor. My spindle has a little play in it 1/3 of an inch. Do you think that is my problem? Also does anyone have an idea of my parameters on bowl size? These last two were very large blocks of wood. Green Walnut with a 12- 14 inch diameter and 5 inches thick. Is this too large for a 500? Should I get my unit refurbed? Who would you recommend? Thanks all
Out of center bowl blanks
Moderators: HopefulSSer, admin
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gilamonster
- Gold Member
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:15 am
- Location: Pine, Arizona
Bags of ready-mix!ggurgiolo wrote: The vibrations were so bad that it bounced the machine across the floor.
No Kidding -- I used 2 or 3 90-lb bags of ready-mix on the pedestals and way-tubes when that happened to me. I was beginning to turn a fairly good size, out-of-round blank of maple, and the SS was walking across the shop. (Speed reducer would help somewhat with this problem, I believe, but I don't have one).
I looked around for something to hold it down...and spied the bags of concrete.
They did the trick, and solved the problem that day, but I don't necessarily recommend using them often. If the bags tear, they totally lose their integrity, and you make a concrete-dust mess!:eek:
Perhaps sandbags would help. Or, those large, couple-gallon laundry detergent jugs, filled with water, with a rope between them, slung over the way tubes.
Another idea I have been playing with: making wooden cabinets with drawers, to fit under the machine (kinda like the red, mechanics cabinets SS made, but have now discontinued. Mine would be afixed to the lower set of way tubes, killing two birds with one stone: storage and added weight.
DOUG in PINE
My Dad's 1956 Greenie upgraded with Bandsaw, Jigsaw, Belt Sander, SpeedIncreaser, 1-1/8hp Emerson motor and 510 tables.
My Dad's 1956 Greenie upgraded with Bandsaw, Jigsaw, Belt Sander, SpeedIncreaser, 1-1/8hp Emerson motor and 510 tables.
When you put a heavy block of wood on any lathe it will be out of round and the RPM is most likely to fast for your wood. Putting some weight on the SS will help. Some use sand bags to hold the lathe down. Your best bet is to purchase a Speed Reducer. With weight and speed reducer you should be able to turn.
The out of alignment problem may be caused by the tailstop. It has an adjustment that may have moved. Re-align the tailstop and slow the lathe down. As your wood gets balanced increase the speed.
James
The out of alignment problem may be caused by the tailstop. It has an adjustment that may have moved. Re-align the tailstop and slow the lathe down. As your wood gets balanced increase the speed.
James
ggurgiolo wrote:Hello All,
I've had my ShopSmith for 4 months and use it primarily to turn wooden bowls. I have completed 5 or 6 but my 7th and 8th would not true up? The vibrations were so bad that it bounced the machine across the floor. My spindle has a little play in it 1/3 of an inch. Do you think that is my problem? Also does anyone have an idea of my parameters on bowl size? These last two were very large blocks of wood. Green Walnut with a 12- 14 inch diameter and 5 inches thick. Is this too large for a 500? Should I get my unit refurbed? Who would you recommend? Thanks all
Who did you buy it from? How old is it? What speed do you start out with? The spindle shoult NOT have that much play.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
ggurgiolo
Welcome to the forum. What part of the country do you live in? A couple of responses to your questions - Your most definitely should get the speed reducer if you are going to be turning bowls that size. I have one and it makes a huge difference, with a blank that big, no problem. Without one, you can put weight on the SS to help a little, however you are still going to get some vibration. Also you need to be starting out at a very slow speed until you get the blank rounded and balanced. You didn't mention the age of your SS, however I don't think you should have the play in the spindle you are mentioning. If it is an older machine you may want to consider upgrading to the two bearing quill. I also try to round my blanks on the bandsaw which helps reducing the vibrations versus an unbalanced rough blank. Hope this helps some.
Welcome to the forum. What part of the country do you live in? A couple of responses to your questions - Your most definitely should get the speed reducer if you are going to be turning bowls that size. I have one and it makes a huge difference, with a blank that big, no problem. Without one, you can put weight on the SS to help a little, however you are still going to get some vibration. Also you need to be starting out at a very slow speed until you get the blank rounded and balanced. You didn't mention the age of your SS, however I don't think you should have the play in the spindle you are mentioning. If it is an older machine you may want to consider upgrading to the two bearing quill. I also try to round my blanks on the bandsaw which helps reducing the vibrations versus an unbalanced rough blank. Hope this helps some.
Ron from Lewisburg, TN
Hi,
First wood is organic so having several pieces be reasonable balance and then finding pieces that are not is reasonable to expect. Even if you attempt to center the piece physically the true center might be somewhere else. If you like you can attempt to find a more balanced locating before you start turning.
The bouncing is due to the wood being way out of balance. Slower speed helps, a stock shopsmith will have a low end of around 700 rpm, with the speed reducer this will go down to 100 rpm. If you want to turn bowls I'd put this at the top of the list as something to buy.
Bouncing around is not good for you or the machine. You could add some weight but there are good ways and bad ways of doing this. I have never done the "sand box" but I understand that might be the best way to control vibration, and to raise the height of the shopsmith...
If you really see a 1/3" play things are bad and you might want to stop using the equipment until you can get it repaired. If you have an older shopsmith with the single bearing quill the run out will be around .005" plus a bit for wear but no where near .333". Depending on what machine you have it can be a simple plug in replacement to a bit larger job on the older systems.
If you can give us more information we can give you more information.
Ed
First wood is organic so having several pieces be reasonable balance and then finding pieces that are not is reasonable to expect. Even if you attempt to center the piece physically the true center might be somewhere else. If you like you can attempt to find a more balanced locating before you start turning.
The bouncing is due to the wood being way out of balance. Slower speed helps, a stock shopsmith will have a low end of around 700 rpm, with the speed reducer this will go down to 100 rpm. If you want to turn bowls I'd put this at the top of the list as something to buy.
Bouncing around is not good for you or the machine. You could add some weight but there are good ways and bad ways of doing this. I have never done the "sand box" but I understand that might be the best way to control vibration, and to raise the height of the shopsmith...
If you really see a 1/3" play things are bad and you might want to stop using the equipment until you can get it repaired. If you have an older shopsmith with the single bearing quill the run out will be around .005" plus a bit for wear but no where near .333". Depending on what machine you have it can be a simple plug in replacement to a bit larger job on the older systems.
If you can give us more information we can give you more information.
Ed
ggurgiolo wrote:Hello All,
I've had my ShopSmith for 4 months and use it primarily to turn wooden bowls. I have completed 5 or 6 but my 7th and 8th would not true up? The vibrations were so bad that it bounced the machine across the floor. My spindle has a little play in it 1/3 of an inch. Do you think that is my problem? Also does anyone have an idea of my parameters on bowl size? These last two were very large blocks of wood. Green Walnut with a 12- 14 inch diameter and 5 inches thick. Is this too large for a 500? Should I get my unit refurbed? Who would you recommend? Thanks all
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Hi,
Don't want to put a damper on you ready-mix idea but I'd keep that stuff away from the shopsmith... the bags normally are not sealed that well and the dust is not a shopsmith friendly substance... no kidding.
Ed
Don't want to put a damper on you ready-mix idea but I'd keep that stuff away from the shopsmith... the bags normally are not sealed that well and the dust is not a shopsmith friendly substance... no kidding.
Ed
gilamonster wrote:Bags of ready-mix!
No Kidding -- I used 2 or 3 90-lb bags of ready-mix on the pedestals and way-tubes when that happened to me. I was beginning to turn a fairly good size, out-of-round blank of maple, and the SS was walking across the shop. (Speed reducer would help somewhat with this problem, I believe, but I don't have one).
I looked around for something to hold it down...and spied the bags of concrete.
They did the trick, and solved the problem that day, but I don't necessarily recommend using them often. If the bags tear, they totally lose their integrity, and you make a concrete-dust mess!:eek:
Perhaps sandbags would help. Or, those large, couple-gallon laundry detergent jugs, filled with water, with a rope between them, slung over the way tubes.
Another idea I have been playing with: making wooden cabinets with drawers, to fit under the machine (kinda like the red, mechanics cabinets SS made, but have now discontinued. Mine would be afixed to the lower set of way tubes, killing two birds with one stone: storage and added weight.
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Thanks
Hey Guys thanks for the info. I was worried that the bouncing had bent my spindle. I will melt the wax off the set screw and see it that is the problem with the play. I think Ed had it right. 1/3 of this particular blank is of the light walnut sap wood which would make it not turn true. I have it roughed out and it still bounces. I'll check the alinment with the end stock as that could be a problem as well.
has anyone had their headstock refurbished? Is it worth the 100 bucks? How much should I pay for a speed reducer?
Thanks to everyone for the help
has anyone had their headstock refurbished? Is it worth the 100 bucks? How much should I pay for a speed reducer?
Thanks to everyone for the help
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RobertTaylor
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 560
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:28 am
- Location: North Canton, Ohio
"has anyone had their headstock refurbished? Is it worth the 100 bucks?"
that answer would be different for each individual. myself i would not pay someone to do something that i can do myself. there is enough info available that if you are the least bit mechanically inclined you can do it.
that said there are people that should not attempt it as they know they are not able to change a tire or put brakes on their car. just no mechanical abilities.
in general no one person can do everything. therefore to some it would be wise to let someone else do things that they are uncomfortable doing.
the $100 you are talking about is the labor charge. don't forget shipping both ways and of course parts. total cost would be more like $400+
that answer would be different for each individual. myself i would not pay someone to do something that i can do myself. there is enough info available that if you are the least bit mechanically inclined you can do it.
that said there are people that should not attempt it as they know they are not able to change a tire or put brakes on their car. just no mechanical abilities.
in general no one person can do everything. therefore to some it would be wise to let someone else do things that they are uncomfortable doing.
the $100 you are talking about is the labor charge. don't forget shipping both ways and of course parts. total cost would be more like $400+
Bob
1954 greenie, 1963 anniversary edition now a mini,
1984 500, 1985 510, 1987 510, pro-planer, bandsaw, dust collector
1954 greenie, 1963 anniversary edition now a mini,
1984 500, 1985 510, 1987 510, pro-planer, bandsaw, dust collector
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dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21371
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
How do you come to that $400 figure?
Shipping will increase cost (but by how much)? Parts cost is a function of parts needed. May be nothing, may be a lot.
A motor costs about $250.00 without replacing any thing else. What if it is bad?
I think you have to be able to put hands on in order to make a reasonable estimate.
BTW, who estimates $100 and what do they propose to do for that $100?
Shipping will increase cost (but by how much)? Parts cost is a function of parts needed. May be nothing, may be a lot.
A motor costs about $250.00 without replacing any thing else. What if it is bad?
I think you have to be able to put hands on in order to make a reasonable estimate.
BTW, who estimates $100 and what do they propose to do for that $100?
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.