jointmatic repair and reassembly

[JPG]

Back to 'normal' assembly.

The dust port mounting plate has counter sunk holes for the hose coupling mounting screws. The router mounting plate has similar countersunk holes in varying hole patterns for different routers.

DUST PORT MOUNT TO PLATE.jpg

The dust port attaches to the plate and the plate attaches to the slide.
ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg
ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg

The router mount plate attaches to the slide - router added last.
ADD ROUTER MOUNT PLATE.jpg

Now for the tricky part. The slide height screw ASSEMBLY.


The sequence of parts attachment to the lead screw.
SLIDE HEIGHT ADJ SCREW ETC.jpg

The large nylon washer goes on the threaded shaft first. It provides a low friction bearing for the bottom of the top of the lead screw.

Then the screw with washer attached is put through the hole in the top rail.
feed screw 1.jpg
feed screw 1.jpg
Under the top rail the small nylon washer is sandwiched between two thin metal washers and slipped unto the rod.
feed screw 2.jpg
feed screw 2.jpg
The nut and lock nut are threaded up to a few inches.
feed screw 3.jpg
feed screw 3.jpg
The knurled threaded bushing and spring washer must be run up on to the rod a few inches.
feed screw 6.jpg
feed screw 6.jpg

The free end of the rod needs to be inserted into the hole in the top of the slide.

BUT first the new parts need to be put in their slot.
feed screw 5.jpg
feed screw 5.jpg
The last part needs to be placed in the recess for it under the slide hole.
feed screw 7.jpg
feed screw 7.jpg

Then the rod assembly is slipped into the hole and the bottom part threaded onto it.
feed screw 8.jpg
feed screw 8.jpg
The nut and lock nut are run up to the washer trio and snugged up and jam nutted.

The crank is mounted on the top of the threaded rod with the set screw on the flat.

Final positioning of the parts in the slide hole is attained when final alignment is done.


A screw takes the place of the original knob for clamping the slide to the stuff on the bottom of the screw. It is not something that will be adjusted often. I think only once will suffice if done correctly and nothing else changes.

Finally a router mounted. I got lucky - the router hole pattern was time relevant for the mounting plate.

add router.jpg

I have fixed that verbage.

[JPG]

Well I seem to have things considerably mucked up.

If this were not "my" thread I would clean it up.

Since it IS, I will leave it as a testament to my lack of being perfect!

[JPG]

Well a problem 'developed'. Der gorilla(or some monkey) caused some hairline cracking. It is barely discernible in the pix.

gorilla strikes.jpg (283.4 KiB) Viewed 564 times

So a fix was added.

gorilla fix1.jpg (192.29 KiB) Viewed 564 times

gorilla fix 2.jpg (209.44 KiB) Viewed 564 times

Note I removed the small projection on the back of the slide after previous pix were taken.

And finally an added preventative measure. Scott Markwood recommended a board mounted with double sided tape to eliminate the stuff that hides under the jointmatic from interfereing with the table and causing damage. I implemented a more 'elegant' solution.

scott fix3.jpg (84.99 KiB) Viewed 564 times

The wood is a scrap piece of underlayment. The screws are 1/2" long and jam into the screw securing the vertical slide support from the rear.

Now to actually start using it!

[RonKlein]

JPG
That doesn't look too bad and is an easy fix. I had similar cracks in mine. Remove the hardware in the area of the cracks. Clamp the cracks tightly, and add a drop or two of thin cyanoacrylate glue. It needs to be the thin type, like water. I let mine sit overnight before removing the clamps, and it has held up very well. The cyanoacrylate seems to work very well with the material used in the slide.
Ron

[rpd]

Haven't had the need to use mine yet. Would it be possible to add a piece of aluminum angle along the top between the knob and the cracked plastic to reinforce it and spread the load,.

[JPG]

Haven't had the need to use mine yet. Would it be possible to add a piece of aluminum angle along the top between the knob and the cracked plastic to reinforce it and spread the load,.

If all else fails, a good alternative. Round hole and notch might be a bit tricky.