jointmatic repair and reassembly

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JPG
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jointmatic repair and reassembly

Post by JPG »

Before I start this I need to shout a THANK YOU to Reible, Majones1, RonKlein, and Chapmanruss for their help in my gaining understanding of what I had and also of those parts I did NOT have in earlier threads!!!

So I acquired a jointmatic that I realized was damaged(A very common condition). From the pix at E-Bay thought I could 'fix' the damage.

So here is the journey to that end and reassembly afterwards.

The top of the slide has a hairline crack. I tried to get thin CA to penetrate. Not sure I succeded.
table top damage.jpg
table top damage.jpg (390.11 KiB) Viewed 1084 times

Table damage is obvious, but the stuff missing is not. A copy of the manual and help from this forum remedied that.
table damage 2.jpg
table damage 2.jpg (254.49 KiB) Viewed 1073 times

A tentative first cut to remove the damaged area using an old 1/4" carbide router bit and the M5.
table damage cut 1.jpg
table damage cut 1.jpg (252.35 KiB) Viewed 1072 times

Setting final depth using a SS part intended for another purpose. The od is the same as parts that normally reside there.
table damage cut 2.jpg
table damage cut 2.jpg (208 KiB) Viewed 1071 times

Early cutting pass.
table damage cut 3.jpg
table damage cut 3.jpg (259.01 KiB) Viewed 1070 times

After final pass.
table damage cut 4.jpg
table damage cut 4.jpg (328.96 KiB) Viewed 1069 times

Oak to the rescue. 1/2"x 7/16" x 3+" sanded to size using a MVII conical disk and the M5 table/rip fence with saw blade slot. BTW the MVII conical disk bevel is about 1.5°.
oak to the rescue.jpg
oak to the rescue.jpg (94.61 KiB) Viewed 1068 times

First need to drill holes for the screws that attach the oak to the slide. It will be used as a reference/locator for subsequent operations.The hole is through the oak.Sorry about the 'focus'.
drilling locating hole.jpg
drilling locating hole.jpg (115.51 KiB) Viewed 1066 times

Now to locate for a partial hole that the clamping screw threads engage. Originally this was a molded in brass insert. using a transfer punch locating on the original insert hole(part or which remains on the slide).
lock hole locating.jpg
lock hole locating.jpg (191.79 KiB) Viewed 1065 times

Using drill bit to center the quill center axis on the dimple just created with the transfer punch.
setting quill location.jpg
setting quill location.jpg (197.05 KiB) Viewed 1064 times
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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JPG
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Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Post by JPG »

Milling a partial hole in the oak using that old 1/4" carbide router bit.
MILL TNUT HOLE.jpg
MILL TNUT HOLE.jpg (257.51 KiB) Viewed 1060 times

The notch in the slide hole requires a similar notch in the oak.
notch required.jpg
notch required.jpg (98.39 KiB) Viewed 1060 times

Less said about the method to create the notch the better, but here it is.
oak1.jpg
oak1.jpg (146.89 KiB) Viewed 1060 times
Those observant will have observed the pix sequence does not exactly match the text.

Another view of the oak.
oak 2.jpg
oak 2.jpg (112.31 KiB) Viewed 1058 times

And another.
oak 3.jpg
oak 3.jpg (121.96 KiB) Viewed 1058 times

Last one.
oak 4.jpg
oak 4.jpg (92.01 KiB) Viewed 1058 times

OK now what is going to replace the threaded insert? Raw material for that.
NEW SLIDE CLAMP THREADS.jpg
NEW SLIDE CLAMP THREADS.jpg (420.36 KiB) Viewed 1057 times

After some alterations. Narrow to fit in the slot and shortened to clear the top.
SLIDE THREADS SCALPED.jpg
SLIDE THREADS SCALPED.jpg (97.39 KiB) Viewed 1057 times

Then fit into the slot in the oak.
SLIDE THREADS MODIFIED.jpg
SLIDE THREADS MODIFIED.jpg (347.38 KiB) Viewed 1056 times
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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JPG
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Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Post by JPG »

Now about that missing gibb. Raw material = 1/2" EMT coup[ling.
gibb raw materiel.jpg
gibb raw materiel.jpg (288.93 KiB) Viewed 1055 times

Performing a crude harvesting.
gibb coming.jpg
gibb coming.jpg (203.59 KiB) Viewed 1055 times

After refinement a test fit.
gibb slip fit.jpg
gibb slip fit.jpg (227.04 KiB) Viewed 1055 times
That threaded part in the hole is one that belongs there. The fit is acceptable.

Another pix somewhat out of sequence, but it shows the fit of the gibb. The radius of the gibb is slightly smaller that the part(s)itclamps against - that is good - distributes the force over a greater area.
GIBB FIT.jpg
GIBB FIT.jpg (219.39 KiB) Viewed 1054 times

REASSEMBLY BEGINS



So what does all the parts look like. Some 'new' screws are included. Other embellishments will be revealed later.
START REASSEMBLY.jpg
START REASSEMBLY.jpg (476.11 KiB) Viewed 1052 times

First reattach the miter gauge slot extrusion. Simply snug results in a good fit. To much gorilla and the miter gauge bar will jam.
MOUNT MITER GAUGE SLOT.jpg
MOUNT MITER GAUGE SLOT.jpg (318.99 KiB) Viewed 1052 times

The two vertical slide guide bars are attached first. Note the bar holes are offset. Correct orientation is required. Merely snug at this time.
SLIDE GUIDE.jpg
SLIDE GUIDE.jpg (63.98 KiB) Viewed 1051 times

Next the top horizontal bar is attached. After the top bar is tightened, the vertical bar screws can be tightened. I do not think it is necessary to use a square here. The slide fit is sloppy.
add top rail.jpg
add top rail.jpg (316.12 KiB) Viewed 1047 times

The slide has a projection on the front. Screws and spacers retain it from the rear. Another pix out of sequence.
SLIDE RETAINER.jpg
SLIDE RETAINER.jpg (128.85 KiB) Viewed 1044 times

Height scale is added on the left side. Two screws original, I will use screws in all 4 slots.
ADD HEIGHT SCALE.jpg
ADD HEIGHT SCALE.jpg (75.38 KiB) Viewed 1043 times

An embellishment - Use unused threaded hole to store router chuck wrenches.
ROUTER WRENCH STORAGE.jpg
ROUTER WRENCH STORAGE.jpg (186.92 KiB) Viewed 1043 times

And another unused hole on the right =side to store a small 5/32 hex wrench. A magnet simply attaches to both the bar and the wrench. Pushing the wrench back from the front moves it away from the magnet so it can be removed.
HEX KEY STORAGE.jpg
HEX KEY STORAGE.jpg (191.61 KiB) Viewed 1042 times
Hmmmmm. Somebody posted the pix upside down! :o
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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JPG
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Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Post by JPG »

When I attempted to add pix to the lead screw assembly below, i stumbled over the attachment limit or some other cockpit issue.

A (hopefully) coherent post is

viewtopic.php?p=295465#p295465
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Back to 'normal' assembly.

The dust port mounting plate has counter sunk holes for the hose coupling mounting screws. The router mounting plate has similar countersunk holes in varying hole patterns for different routers.
The attachment DUST PORT MOUNT TO PLATE.jpg is no longer available

The dust port attaches to the plate and the plate attaches to the slide.
The attachment ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg is no longer available

The router mount plate attaches to the slide - router added last.
The attachment ADD ROUTER MOUNT PLATE.jpg is no longer available

Now for the tricky part. The slide height screw ASSEMBLY.


The sequence of parts attachment to the lead screw.
ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg
ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg (263.83 KiB) Viewed 1037 times
The large nylon washer goes on the threaded shaft first. It provides a low friction bearing for the bottom of the top of the lead screw.

Then the screw with washer attached is put through the hole in the top rail.
ADD ROUTER MOUNT PLATE.jpg
ADD ROUTER MOUNT PLATE.jpg (337.77 KiB) Viewed 1037 times
Under the top rail the small nylon washer is sandwiched between two thin metal washers and slipped unto the rod.
add router.jpg
add router.jpg (234.88 KiB) Viewed 1037 times
The nut and lock nut are threaded up to a few inches.
NEW STUFF(SLIDE CLAMP).jpg
NEW STUFF(SLIDE CLAMP).jpg (195.53 KiB) Viewed 1036 times
The knurled threaded bushing and spring washer must be run up on to the rod a few inches.
feed screw 3.jpg
feed screw 3.jpg (157.81 KiB) Viewed 908 times

The free end of the rod needs to be inserted into the hole in the top of the slide.

BUT first the new parts need to be put in their slot.
feed screw 2.jpg
feed screw 2.jpg (170.61 KiB) Viewed 908 times
The last part needs to be placed in the recess for it under the slide hole.
feed screw 1.jpg
feed screw 1.jpg (145.44 KiB) Viewed 908 times

Then the rod assembly is slipped into the hole and the bottom part threaded onto it.
feedscrew 4.jpg
feedscrew 4.jpg (82.94 KiB) Viewed 908 times
The nut and lock nut are run up to the washer trio and snugged up and jam nutted.

The crank is mounted on the top of the threaded rod with the set screw on the flat.

Final positioning of the parts in the slide hole is attained when final alignment is done.


A screw takes the place of the original knob for clamping the slide to the stuff on the bottom of the screw. It is not something that will be adjusted often. I think only once will suffice if done correctly and nothing else changes.

Finally a router mounted. I got lucky - the router hole pattern was time relevant for the mounting plate.
The attachment add router.jpg is no longer available
I will be fixing that verbage.
Attachments
DUST PORT MOUNT TO PLATE.jpg
DUST PORT MOUNT TO PLATE.jpg (203.82 KiB) Viewed 1037 times
SLIDE HEIGHT ADJ SCREW ETC.jpg
SLIDE HEIGHT ADJ SCREW ETC.jpg (175.48 KiB) Viewed 1035 times
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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JPG
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Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Post by JPG »

Left this out above.
STOP ADDED.jpg
STOP ADDED.jpg (230.86 KiB) Viewed 925 times
This is a home made mitre gauge stop rod. By removing the short rod it mounts to the right vertical rail using an otherwise unused tapped hole. Uses set screws with 5/32 hex socket.


Height adjustment screw assembly pix coming.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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chapmanruss
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Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Post by chapmanruss »

Very nice on the creative problem solving in this restoration. I had an opportunity to buy a JointMatic a few years ago but passed on it knowing some of the problems they have. You have inspired me to reconsider buying one should the opportunity arise again.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E's S/N's 1076 & 1077 oldest ones I have restored. Mark 2 S/N 85959 restored. Others to be restored.
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miken
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Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Post by miken »

Excellent break down of the repair JPG. I especially like your milling machine. ;)

Mike -
ShopSmith Mark VII (406982), with Band Saw, Jig Saw, Belt Sander, and Jointer
ShopSmith Mark VII (400457), (working backup or parts machine)
12" Craftsman Band Saw (113.243311)
12" Craftsman Powered Hacksaw (108.1501)
12" Atlas Commercial (3990) 12" Back Geared, Undermount, Screw Cutting Lathe with Quick Change Gear Box, Taper, Milling and Grinding Attachments
Atlas MFC Horizontal Milling Machine with Vertical Milling Attachment
Atlas 7B Metal Shaper
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JPG
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Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Post by JPG »

I was describing a router bit to some mechanical designers years back and they exclaimed "an end mill"! Ever since then I think of it as an end mill for wood. A router bit makes a very clean hole when using the end cutter as a hole borer.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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JPG
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Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Post by JPG »

JPG wrote: Tue Feb 22, 2022 3:49 pm Back to 'normal' assembly.

The dust port mounting plate has counter sunk holes for the hose coupling mounting screws. The router mounting plate has similar countersunk holes in varying hole patterns for different routers.
DUST PORT MOUNT TO PLATE.jpg
DUST PORT MOUNT TO PLATE.jpg (203.82 KiB) Viewed 907 times
The dust port attaches to the plate and the plate attaches to the slide.
ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg
ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg
ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg (263.83 KiB) Viewed 907 times
The router mount plate attaches to the slide - router added last.
ADD ROUTER MOUNT PLATE.jpg
ADD ROUTER MOUNT PLATE.jpg (337.77 KiB) Viewed 907 times
Now for the tricky part. The slide height screw ASSEMBLY.


The sequence of parts attachment to the lead screw.
SLIDE HEIGHT ADJ SCREW ETC.jpg
SLIDE HEIGHT ADJ SCREW ETC.jpg (175.48 KiB) Viewed 907 times
The large nylon washer goes on the threaded shaft first. It provides a low friction bearing for the bottom of the top of the lead screw.

Then the screw with washer attached is put through the hole in the top rail.
feed screw 1.jpg
feed screw 1.jpg
feed screw 1.jpg (145.44 KiB) Viewed 907 times
Under the top rail the small nylon washer is sandwiched between two thin metal washers and slipped unto the rod.
feed screw 2.jpg
feed screw 2.jpg
feed screw 2.jpg (170.61 KiB) Viewed 907 times
The nut and lock nut are threaded up to a few inches.
feed screw 3.jpg
feed screw 3.jpg
feed screw 3.jpg (157.81 KiB) Viewed 907 times
The knurled threaded bushing and spring washer must be run up on to the rod a few inches.
feed screw 6.jpg
feed screw 6.jpg
feed screw 6.jpg (175.51 KiB) Viewed 907 times
The free end of the rod needs to be inserted into the hole in the top of the slide.

BUT first the new parts need to be put in their slot.
feed screw 5.jpg
feed screw 5.jpg
feed screw 5.jpg (294.24 KiB) Viewed 907 times
The last part needs to be placed in the recess for it under the slide hole.
feed screw 7.jpg
feed screw 7.jpg
feed screw 7.jpg (196.3 KiB) Viewed 907 times
Then the rod assembly is slipped into the hole and the bottom part threaded onto it.
feed screw 8.jpg
feed screw 8.jpg
feed screw 8.jpg (222.5 KiB) Viewed 907 times
The nut and lock nut are run up to the washer trio and snugged up and jam nutted.

The crank is mounted on the top of the threaded rod with the set screw on the flat.

Final positioning of the parts in the slide hole is attained when final alignment is done.


A screw takes the place of the original knob for clamping the slide to the stuff on the bottom of the screw. It is not something that will be adjusted often. I think only once will suffice if done correctly and nothing else changes.

Finally a router mounted. I got lucky - the router hole pattern was time relevant for the mounting plate.

add router.jpg

I will be fixing that verbage.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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JPG
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Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Re: jointmatic repair and reassembly

Post by JPG »

NOTE: I was attempting to add lead screw pix to this post and I believe I stepped over he maxpix limit or some other cockpit issue.

In the process of trying to 'fix' I inadvertently added a new post with almost the same stuff.

Here is that added post pp




JPG wrote: Tue Feb 22, 2022 3:49 pm Back to 'normal' assembly.

The dust port mounting plate has counter sunk holes for the hose coupling mounting screws. The router mounting plate has similar countersunk holes in varying hole patterns for different routers.
DUST PORT MOUNT TO PLATE.jpg


The dust port attaches to the plate and the plate attaches to the slide.
ADD DC PORT & PLATE.jpg


The router mount plate attaches to the slide - router added last.
ADD ROUTER MOUNT PLATE.jpg


Now for the tricky part. The slide height screw ASSEMBLY.


The sequence of parts attachment to the lead screw.
SLIDE HEIGHT ADJ SCREW ETC.jpg

The large nylon washer goes on the threaded shaft first. It provides a low friction bearing for the bottom of the top of the lead screw.

Then the screw with washer attached is put through the hole in the top rail.
feed screw 1.jpg

Under the top rail the small nylon washer is sandwiched between two thin metal washers and slipped unto the rod.
feed screw 2.jpg

The nut and lock nut are threaded up to a few inches.
feed screw 3.jpg

The knurled threaded bushing and spring washer must be run up on to the rod a few inches.
feed screw 6.jpg


The free end of the rod needs to be inserted into the hole in the top of the slide.

BUT first the new parts need to be put in their slot.
feed screw 5.jpg

The last part needs to be placed in the recess for it under the slide hole.
feed screw 7.jpg


Then the rod assembly is slipped into the hole and the bottom part threaded onto it.
feed screw 8.jpg

The nut and lock nut are run up to the washer trio and snugged up and jam nutted.

The crank is mounted on the top of the threaded rod with the set screw on the flat.

Final positioning of the parts in the slide hole is attained when final alignment is done.


A screw takes the place of the original knob for clamping the slide to the stuff on the bottom of the screw. It is not something that will be adjusted often. I think only once will suffice if done correctly and nothing else changes.

Finally a router mounted. I got lucky - the router hole pattern was time relevant for the mounting plate.

add router.jpg

I will be fixing that verbage.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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