Shopsmith Forums

BuckeyeDennis wrote: ↑Tue Apr 12, 2022 8:59 pm Indeed.

Chris Marshall of Woodworker's Journal explains the benefits of an auxiliary miter gauge fence much better than I can. I should have linked to his video in the first place.

For years I've used a sacrificial fence that is essentially an extended version of the SS non-sacrificial hardwood extension, and similar to what Chris shows in the video: https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cat ... rgauge.htm (I'm not seeing the listing, but it is in the picture next to the stop rod.) One 'problem' is the gradual growth of the cut in the extension caused by slight variation in setup normal to the Shopsmith. Now I'm inspired to try the WoodAnchor version that I can align to the blade.

- David

Yes the miter gauge remains at 0 deg. I used this jig when I have segments that are too high to be cut safely using the miter gauge for the angle. By laying the segment flat and then cutting the angles on each edge of the segment the segment can then be stood up on end with the angled cuts forming the left and right edge and then the segments can be glued into a ring. gravity is what holds the fixture to the way tubes. After the table angle is set and locked in place the Tweaker can be removed. By tall segments I mean as in the pic.
Bill V

I love these ideas. Thanks guys. I do use a sacrifice fence on my miter Guage. I also have a sled for my table saw but not the SS yet. With an 8" blade I don't really want to use a sled and give up cutting depth. Has anyone built a box joint jig to use with the miter Guage and a sacrificial fence?

I'm gonna take a much closer look at that Tweaker. Very interesting.

whiteb01
If you have any questions post them here and I will answer them.
Bill V

I like the mini cross cut sled.
It uses those zero-play guidebars that have recently come up in discussion in a different thread. I was lucky-they actually fit my table slots.
This one is great for nibbling away at stuff when you are too lazy to setup a dado stack.

I'm working on a tenoning jig from Nick Englers Workshop Companion book series.
I'm not sure if it will become my favorite jig, but it is certainly requiring the most
stretch of my skill set...so Ill call that a win.

b

wa2crk wrote: ↑Wed Apr 13, 2022 4:26 pm whiteb01
If you have any questions post them here and I will answer them.
Bill V

Will do Bill. BTW, beautiful bowl in the pic above.

bainin wrote: ↑Wed Apr 13, 2022 5:18 pm

It uses those zero-play guidebars that have recently come up in discussion in a different thread. I was lucky-they actually fit my table slots.



b

What is the width of the zero-play guidebars? Where do you get them? I haven't seen this discussion.

I really like the looks of your tennon jig.

whiteb01 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 13, 2022 10:02 pm What is the width of the zero-play guidebars? Where do you get them? I haven't seen this discussion.

I really like the looks of your tennon jig.

Note: the 10ER miter slots are 1/4 x 3/4", shallower than the zero play bars (3/8"), and slightly wider than the Mark V slots.
Just get some 1/4 x 3/4 bar stock, it will work fine.
Also, with the Shopsmith you get more blade above the table than with a regular table saw.

This is an interesting box joint jig.

Demo of the latest version



Original video with build direcitons

While my shop utilizes several purchased and, shop made jigs, The one used most often is my shop made trac saw. It's just an 8' length of 3/4" BB with an aluminum T track (from Peach Tree supply) embedded. My Skill 77 has holes in the sole, to which a short piece of T track insert is attached with short 1/4-20 bolts and wing nuts. 6" Jorgy F clamps are used to clamp it to the work. Easy Peasey.

Heres another one Im trying out. It is mostly due to laziness. Instead of making actual measurements on blade distance to fence etc...I tend to make small tic marks on my boards where I want to cut them. Then i do my level best to hit those targets-sometimes its good, sometimes not so good.

The error occurs because the blade curves away from the board and its hard to gauge by eyeball if the blade aligns well to the tick mark on the board.

So i made this step gauge that uses the blade itself for self alignment and has a series of steps cut into its face to allow overhang/overlap with various board heights in 1/4" increments. It sets down on the blade and fits snugly-since the channel was made with the same blade.
The slot on the step face was aligned to the saw alignment slot on the bottom-the bottom slot is kindof drawn in pencil on the side of the board to give you an idea-it doesn't completely slot the board bottom.
Finally you can see how it works. You place the step gauge on the blade and slide your board up to the step face-where you can then clearly set your
blade to the tick mark on your board. The slot indicates the blade width-so its easy to setup for a left or right side cut on your tick mark.

You gotta be a little careful - as you could potentially bend your blade if you push sideways on something like this, but it definitely has improved my lazy accuracy.

b