Quill Bearing Noise - New Bearing Or Upgrade?

[edma194]

You need a bearing puller. Depending on how far down the bearing is on the shaft a battery terminal puller could do the job. It can actually be done with some small clamps and 3 hands and other techniques. You can get bearing pullers pretty cheap at Harbor Freight. If you're going to be fixing your Shopsmith it could come in handy some day.

But first I would put a heat gun on the bearing, put some penetrating oil on it and let it sit, then try again. If it doesn't move heat it again. Don't get too hot, or keep the heat on too long, 200° or so should do it.

[BigAl]

Thanks!

I actually have a nice variety of bearing pullers, a bearing separator, etc. I think I could get the bearing off the shaft easily enough . . . once I get the bearing out of the tubular part of the quill. Maybe I'll carry the quill over to a local automotive shop and see if they would be willing to press things apart for me.

[edma194]

Ah, sorry, misunderstood what you were doing. Yeah, hammering is not a good idea. I have used a local truck service shop for things like this in the past. They happen to be a lot more friendly than the ordinary auto shops around here and better equipped too. I think they are under less bottom line pressure. But I can't say that applies elsewhere.

[reible]

Here is a link to a 10ER bearing change:

viewtopic.php?t=20436&hilit=pulling+bearings

And here is a post talking about the newer quill set up:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=20502

The bearing on the newer quills should come out with only light pressure, no pounding required.

Ed

[JPG]

Do you have rust issues, or is something else causing it to be stuck?

[BigAl]

Do you have rust issues, or is something else causing it to be stuck?

No rust, but possibly some other corrosion?

I used a little more heat today and was able to drive the bearing and shaft out. The bearing then came right off the shaft using a three jaw puller.

The OD of the bearing and the ID of the quill tube in the bearing area were covered in a white powdery material and some pitting. It looks like corroded aluminum . . . but there isn't any aluminum there. I used some 400 grit paper to clean up the inside of the tube and there were a few small spots where the metal was upset. It almost looked like tiny spot welds. Anyway, I cleaned up the shaft and the tube and reassembled it with a new bearing. It went together without excessive force.

The bad news is that the machine still squeals at higher speeds. It definitely sounds like a dry ball bearing. I ordered an aftermarket rebuild kit off of eBay with bearings belts a shaft and eccentric sleeve. It looks like I'll be doing a complete teardown as soon as I have the parts. (I guess I'll be calling in a favor from a friend who has a bearing press for part of that project.)

[JPG]

Unless there is that white powdery stuff in the power sleeve bore(I think that may be wishful thinking) they should easily slip out.

Let's just call it dissimilar metal corrosion.

[rpd]

There is,
- piece of pipe and a dead blow hammer.



or, a bearing separator and puller.
https://www.harborfreight.com/automotiv ... 62593.html

[BigAl]

Yep. I’m a little concerned about changing the bearings on the drive sleeve. I have a Pittsburgh bearing separator and puller kit from Harbor Freight. I’m hoping that using that and maybe some pipe scraps or deep well sockets I’ll be able to pull things apart and pull them back together without applying any force across the bearing balls.

The headstock rebuild kit should arrive later this week. I’ve got the headstock on me workbench. Just so I don’t forget how things go together, I think I’ll wait to tear it down until after I have the new parts in-hand.

[DaOldGuy]

I read the notes on the Youtube post above and the author seems to feel that purchasing the upgraded 2 bearing, with the smaller bearings is not a good long term solution. The upgrade, being well above $400.00 with the 4 parts required, seems a lot for a quill that may be a shorter life then the upgrade done in the video. (authors opinion) For my Greenie, bore the back of the quill, take a few thousands off the back spines and the 2 bearings are a match. Seems easy, what could go wrong?

Maybe I am missing something.

From YouTube Post --> "Shopsmith Mark V double bearing quill upgrade
18,670 views Mar 8, 2012 Reducing runout by modifying the Mark V single bearing quill to add a rear bearing. The original 10ER Shopsmith machines had two precision bearings in the quill. When the Mark V came out in April of 1954 the rear bearing was eliminated and the drive sleeve was all that supported the rear end of the spindle. On the old 50's Greenie machines the drive sleeve splines were steel but were so loose that a plastic sleeve was provided to reduce noise. That plastic sleeve simply forced the spline shaft to one side to prevent the rattling. When the design was changed to the poly-v system in 1961 a plastic spline coupler was added but still no rear bearing. This did not help the runout problem. In 1984 the two bearing quill was re introduced but instead of mounting the bearing in the rear end of the quill they changed the spindle to a two piece design and added a small bearing a few inches behind the front spindle bearing. Smaller bearings don't last as long and with the leverage forces generated by the rear bearing being so close to the front bearing the wear problem is compounded. It doesn't take long to get runout and noise from the small back bearing. My solution is to add a rear bearing in the back end of the quill similar to the old 10ER design. The spindle remains in one piece and runout is greatly reduced. Plus, the rear bearing will last much longer. The rear bearing I use is a double sealed bearing with the same ID as the front bearing but a few thousandths smaller OD. This reduces the bore size enough to keep from opening the quill in the bottom of the quill teeth. On the old Greenie 6 spline spindles the spline shaft must be turned down a few thousandths to install the rear bearing but the splines are so deep this does not affect operation or longevity of the drive. On the later poly-v machines the bearing just slips over the splines and the area where the bearing seats is center punched to make a light press fit to keep the bearing in place. I've done many of these modifications over the years with no problems reported. Contact me at skip@mkctools.com for pricing and to order."