Shopsmith Forums

So . . . I'm in the midst of getting my recently acquired 1982 MK V Model 500 cleaned up, lubricated and adjusted. My plan is to get it in shape to do a couple of furniture projects when the weather finally warms up here in Wisconsin . . . probably still a few weeks away. After that, I think I'll do a complete teardown and refurbishment.

Today I lubed the drive sheaves. Adjusting the speed was a little stiff before I did the oiling but it is easier now. The quadrant gear and worm still look fine. I did notice that at higher speeds, the quill bearing sounded a little dry and noisy. I know this is hack . . . but temporary. I removed the output shaft collar and drilled a tiny hole at the top edge the bearing shield and injected a little grease into the bearing with a needle attachment on my grease gun. The unit runs quieter now.

At the least, I think I'll need to replace the quill bearing . . . although similar hack bearing lubes have lasted me a long time in the past. Is the quill bearing a standard one? Can anyone give me the standard part number so I can go to the local bearing shop to get one?

I'm retired now, so I no longer have easy access to a bearing press. How tight is the bearing on the spindle? Is it conceivable that I could use pipe to rig up the right kind of jig to drive the old bearing off and a new bearing on with a hammer without damaging the shaft? . . . or will I need a press for sure?

Otherwise, I see two-bearing quills available on eBay for about $100 shipped. Is the upgrade worth the cost?

Thanks in advance for any input!!

Quill(single) bearing = 5/8" x 35mm x 11mm == 6202-10-2RS I recommend the rubber seals.

Slip fit!

JPG wrote: Tue Apr 19, 2022 5:10 pm
Slip fit!

Any chance the drive sleeve bearings are slip fit too? I have another drive sleeve assembly to replace one where the bearing side plate came loose. It wasn't mounted right so the spiral spring clip wasn't all the way in, probably damaged the bearing when trying to force it it. Anyway, I already have another one to replace it but I don't want to throw away $135 part if it can be fixed with a new bearing.

JPG wrote: Tue Apr 19, 2022 5:10 pm Quill(single) bearing = 5/8" x 35mm x 11mm == 6202-10-2RS I recommend the rubber seals.

Slip fit!

Thanks! New bearing on order. It should be here in a couple of days.

edma194 wrote: Tue Apr 19, 2022 5:55 pm

JPG wrote: Tue Apr 19, 2022 5:10 pm
Slip fit!

Any chance the drive sleeve bearings are slip fit too? I have another drive sleeve assembly to replace one where the bearing side plate came loose. It wasn't mounted right so the spiral spring clip wasn't all the way in, probably damaged the bearing when trying to force it it. Anyway, I already have another one to replace it but I don't want to throw away $135 part if it can be fixed with a new bearing.

Yes. Gentle tapping may be required(proper direction needed). JPW helps. Puller makes removal easier. Inner race is more tight. Slip fit in headstock fer sure.

Will I need to remove the entire quill to replace the bearing or might it be possible to remove the snap ring that retains the bearing and just extract the spindle and bearing assembly?

The snap ring holds in the drive sleeve assembly. Are you changing the bearings on that or the quill? You need to remove or loosen the drive belt to remove the drive sleeve assembly, and remove the idler shaft to do that. So if you are only changing quill bearings you only want to remove the quill which is much easier to do.

The drive sleeve assembly pulls out from the left side of the headstock and is held in by the spiral snap ring. The quill comes out from the right side of the headstock and is held in by a set screw and the quill return spring through the quill advance mechanism. Very easy to take out to change the bearings and clean it. I'll look for a good video on this and I'm sure others will have advice as well.

Thanks!

I'm only replacing the quill bearing. It is retained in the tubular part of the quill by an internal snap ring and a spacer, visible from the output end. It looks like if I remove the snap ring, I can pull out the spindle shaft along with the the bearing and leave the tubular part of the quill in place. That way I wouldn't need to disturb the quill return spring or the depth stop.

I'll give it a try when the bearing arrives. If the spindle shaft doesn't want to slide out, I can always remove the whole quill to work on it on the bench.

BigAl,

As Ed said it is rather easy to remove the whole Quill Assembly and I would recommend doing so to replace the bearing. At the same time you can clean the teeth of any gunk and wax the Quill before reinstalling it into the Headstock. Cleaning and waxing the Quill Assembly should be part of your regular Maintenace. Just like other bare metal parts on the Shopsmith using Johnson's Paste Wax original formula or similar will protect it and provide lubrication of the moving metal parts.

Thanks again.

I took the quill out and removed the internal snap ring and the thin spacer ring between the snap ring and the outer bearing race. I couldn’t disassemble anything further. The bearing is stuck tight on the OD of the shaft and the ID of the quill. A reasonable amount of beating with a deadblow hammer did nothing. I didn’t want to get too carried away and wreck the old bearing. It’s all back together with the old bearing for now. I’m retired now. For the first time since the 1970s I don’t have access to a hydraulic press or machine tools. I’m stumped on how to proceed.