Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote: ↑Tue Jun 14, 2022 9:37 pm At what 'point' on the outer sheaves is that 2" determined?

The measurement is measured at the outer (thin) edges of the fixed sheaves. No the manual doesn't say that but, that is the only place they measure approximately 2". The manual says they should not be "over" 2" and set them to 2" if they are. I have 5 speed changers here. Three have never been touched by me yet. All three measure 1 15/16". One is on my refurbished machine and it measures 2". Presumably that is where I set it, per the manual, when I put it back together after refurbishing. The fifth one is all apart for refurbishing so I don't know what it was set to originally.

I am learning quite a bit through this readjustment:

1) Pulled the motor from its mooring.
2) Cleaned and lightly lubricated each of the two motor support bars (Rustoleum, light soap rinse and then Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty grease). The motor remounted easily.
3) Placed a drop of machine oil on the floating sheave column.
4) Measured the distance between the two fastened sheaves (a little under 2")
5) The two belts went on without incident, referencing my own manual.
6) Horizontal placement of the tubular ways helped gravity and the motor tighten the belts. I tightened the allen screws for the motor supports in place once the tension was adequate.
7) The Speed Changer tension springs seem even.
8) The Speed Changer dial now reads 3.5 - I will use a tachometer to measure the speed against the manual's numbers.
9) The 10er starts up like a charm.

Quite chuffed; thanks again everyone for your help.

Scott

Looks better except for the 3.5??

What should the spring tension gauge read? I can adjust the motor to accommodate, but I thought it a pleasant middle-of-the-dial reading.

IIUC your pix, the dial at 3.5 is also at the end of the adjustment range(slo). At that positioning of the sheaves the dial needs to read 0.





BTW what does pleasant have to do with it? ;>)

Scott,

You are getting the idea. Currently, from picture 2 above, it looks like you have it in high range at the fast speed. Run it down to the slow speed and then adjust the indicator scale to 0. The Indicator Scale is a guide for the speed/RPM of the spindle turning. Remember NEVER turn the Screw Assembly to change speeds without the motor running while belts are in place. On my Model 10ER with a Speed Changer on it, it is currently in low range. I have the same brand and type of belts on it you bought from Skip. It goes from 0 to just above 4 on the indicator scale so don't worry if yours doesn't go up to 5 either. I have used different belts, the standard V belt as opposed to the cogged belt, that go the full 0 to 5 range.

Below is my Model 10ER in the low speed range at the slowest speed. There has been enough "break in" time on the belts so I could adjust the fixed sheaves slightly inward. It is also set up for the Model 4E Jointer so it has a different Headrest than normal and the extra 5" motor pulley.

_ .
The PDF below is a replica of the Speed Changer Chart if you need one. I keep a laminated copy right on the bench by the Speed Changer for reference.

One of these days I need to switch the Screw Assembly around to have it away from the Headstock like yours is set up. Doing that gets the crank handle away from the Way Tube Lock on the Headstock.

_ .
The lock nut on the end of the Screw Assembly looks to be in a good position just having everything touching or barely compressing the springs.