chapmanruss wrote: ↑Fri Jul 01, 2022 12:20 pm
Adding the access hole to the back of the "A" Headstock can be done. I haven't done it myself, but I have seen information on doing it. The hole cutout was made by marking the circle on the Headstock casting. It would be the same diameter as the spacing between the holes for the attachment posts on the "A" Headstock Name Plate. The important thing to end up with are the ears on either side of those original holes and completing the circle top and bottom past the ears. Drilling holes around the inside of the circle marked in the casting and finishing with filing the circle smooth is one way I saw someone had done it. The first picture below is an "A" Headstock casting showing the two holes for the Name Plate. The second picture is of a "B" Headstock casting with arrows indicating the ears that keep the Name Plate straight. The "A" Name Plate and "B" Name Plate are the same with the addition of the clip to keep the "B" Name Plate in place. If you do this change you will need to get a "B" Name Plate. The Name Plate Shopsmith currently sells as replacement parts here on this website is for the "C" Headstock and is different in its attachment than the "B" Name Plate. You will have to find a "B" Name Plate on the used market.
You have expressed an interest in upgrading from the Gilmer Drive to the Poly V drive if it hasn't been done by a previous owner. I am not sure if you have determined that yet. There is an option to buy the needed parts on the used market. This is something I don't often recommend but Mark V owners upgrading to the Power Pro Headstock doing the Do-It-Yourself option are left with extra parts which are the Poly V parts you need and often they sell them on online auctions. Most are in good condition being removed from running Mark V Headstocks. Many have double bearing Quills. There can be savings going this route but a word of caution it is still a buyer beware market so ask questions as to the condition of the parts.
Thanks for those photos, it makes complete sense what needs to be done from what you outlined here. Cast (pot metal) requires care, 60 year old cast, even more I think sometimes.
I considered staying with the existing emblem, cutting to hole as large as the emblem would hide and leaving the holes for the emblem on like a tab. I have seem many automotive emblems that have inserts that can be put in the hole that allow the emblems to come on an off with a little wiggle and then apply a rubber casket to the back of the emblem to keep it from raddling... It may be a totally bad idea. 8)
If I had a diamond hole saw for Ceramic tile that size, I wonder if that would cut it.
I really hate paying shipping for heavy parts but I nearly refuse to do it for used parts to your well pointed out concerns. I would only buy used if in person and could validate condition, which is not always easy to do.
I do not mind spending the money to do it once and right by getting new at the end of it all. It will have more value to be sold later if I stop using or pass on like the fella this came from.
I ran it up to fast, and now that I looked below the switch, I can see how that would work to block Fast. Key item is "would" cause it doesn't work. Between the flex of the plate you push and the some what looseness of the indicator dial, it seems to slow down but turn past anyway. Something to look at during overhaul.
The dial is stubborn, I am going to clean and oil those sheaves to get it to play nicer next.
Thank You much
Ron