Shopsmith Forums

The early bench tubes were painted and of larger diameter, as Russ mentioned, than the way tubes. I'm not sure when that changed, but my '57 was painted. I'm unsure of the color, mine were flat black but I'm reasonably sure they had been repainted when I got the machine in the mid 80's. There are some good restoration threads that probably show the original color. Warning - if you look at those full restorations you'll want to do one.

- David

Good timing on the wax, I have 20 years in Autobody in my past, I am very well versed in the original actual wax products verses this stuff they sell today.
Simoniz car wax was in the back end the same wax, it was serious work to get back off the car.

Another strange event just happened, unrelated to the purchase of the Shop Smith. Cleaning out a storage shed from moving here, building our new house, I pulled out of the very back a band saw I bought 4 years ago at a yard sale for45 dollars.
The date the past owner put on it was sept 1981, its a craftsman with a removable floor stand and a belt drive under slung electric motor.

It might be just me, but it "appears" to look like the shop smith ones on videos and it has a 5/8 arbor on the side just like it that the pulley for the motor is on... Is it possible? might it be adapted to the SS
example internet photo My Saw

I doubt it has the SS mounting tube holes.

Once you have a SS band saw you will not use another brand of the same size. Tracking is automatic.Tension is easily set.

The bench tubes changed size just before the Goldie to poly-v / motor size change. 196?

And the only color I know is aluminum/gray.

JPG wrote: ↑Sat Jun 25, 2022 9:14 pm I doubt it has the SS mounting tube holes.
Once you have a SS band saw you will not use another brand of the same size. Tracking is automatic. Tension is easily set.
The bench tubes changed size just before the Goldie to poly-v / motor size change. 196?
And the only color I know is aluminum/gray.

Apologies. Not saying they are the same device at all. This is a 12 inch and a different shape ect. It has a shaft that a attachment could be added to bridge the connector with a little fabrication. It comes down to it the saw shaft in the right area, does it spin the correct direction, and could it be adapted? The autobody guy in me tends to be happy to fabricate things.

Oh I think it could be done. Question in my mind is, will you be satisfied with the craftsman. ;>)

JPG wrote: ↑Sat Jun 25, 2022 10:10 pm Oh I think it could be done. Question in my mind is, will you be satisfied with the craftsman. ;>)

Bigger question is with my skills would I know the difference? Since it is a 1981 vintage, there is a chance its better than ones made in the last 10 years.

A bandsaw in the hand is worth several that must be acquired.

Although I cannot tell from the picture you could probably adapt the Craftsman Bandsaw to work on the Shopsmith Mark 5. My first thought in adapting it would be the use of the extension table legs to bolt the Craftsman Bandsaw to, maybe with an adapter plate. The drive shaft of the Bandsaw will have to line up with the upper drive shaft on the Mark 5 headstock. The Hubs for the Power Coupler come in both 1/2" and 5/8" sizes for the tools being powered. The Craftsman Bandsaw would need to have either a 1/2" or 5/8" diameter shaft the pulley is currently on. If it has a different diameter shaft than another adaptation would be necessary to make the Craftsman Bandsaw work on the Mark 5.

Another option instead of spending the money to get parts to adapt the Craftsman Bandsaw for use would be to apply that money to getting a new or a nice used Shopsmith Bandsaw. A new Shopsmith Bandsaw is $599 and occasionally go on sale. As JPG said and I agree you would be happier with the ease of using the Shopsmith vs. the Craftsman Bandsaw.

The Jointer can be identified by the depth indicator plate on the side of the outfeed table casting. It not only indicates the cutting depth but includes the Model Number, Serial Number and which company made it. Your Jointer even if it appears to have a lot of rust can be saved and made to work like new. Below is a picture of a Greenie Magna Jointer I restored that had a lot of rust. The picture shows rust on the fence but the infeed and outfeed tables had at least as much rust as the fence before the rust was removed from them.

_ .
Now here is what you were warned about. Below is the Mark 5 that came with the Jointer above after I restored it. It was in pretty bad shape when I got it but came out beautifully.

_ .
Happy Restorations

JPG wrote: ↑Sun Jun 26, 2022 10:53 am A bandsaw in the hand is worth several that must be acquired.

Indeed....

chapmanruss wrote: ↑Sun Jun 26, 2022 1:34 pm Although I cannot tell from the picture you could probably adapt the Craftsman Bandsaw to work on the Shopsmith Mark 5. My first thought in adapting it would be the use of the extension table legs to bolt the Craftsman Bandsaw to, maybe with an adapter plate. The drive shaft of the Bandsaw will have to line up with the upper drive shaft on the Mark 5 headstock. The Hubs for the Power Coupler come in both 1/2" and 5/8" sizes for the tools being powered. The Craftsman Bandsaw would need to have either a 1/2" or 5/8" diameter shaft the pulley is currently on. If it has a different diameter shaft than another adaptation would be necessary to make the Craftsman Bandsaw work on the Mark 5.

Another option instead of spending the money to get parts to adapt the Craftsman Bandsaw for use would be to apply that money to getting a new or a nice used Shopsmith Bandsaw. A new Shopsmith Bandsaw is $599 and occasionally go on sale. As JPG said and I agree you would be happier with the ease of using the Shopsmith vs. the Craftsman Bandsaw.

The Jointer can be identified by the depth indicator plate on the side of the outfeed table casting. It not only indicates the cutting depth but includes the Model Number, Serial Number and which company made it. Your Jointer even if it appears to have a lot of rust can be saved and made to work like new. Below is a picture of a Greenie Magna Jointer I restored that had a lot of rust. The picture shows rust on the fence but the infeed and outfeed tables had at least as much rust as the fence before the rust was removed from them.
Now here is what you were warned about. Below is the Mark 5 that came with the Jointer above after I restored it. It was in pretty bad shape when I got it but came out beautifully.


Happy Restorations

Such a nice system, its really clean, better than mine will clean up

My Jointer is looks complete, needs a good cleaning and maintenance but I think it is very viable.
I laid out everything, I got a dead center and a new in package live center which I am happy about. It has the additional stand (lathe steady rest) for the bearing set that applies pressure opposite of the knife to keep pressure even. I have a lot of printed docs or I would not have know hat that thing was.