Shopsmith Forums

It helps to have an access hole for routine lubing of the upper sheaves. I don't know if it needs to be the full size of the access hole if you want to add one. I have a PowerPro installed in an 'A' headstock but the access hole isn't really needed. If I had one I might have noticed that you can see the warning label on the power supply through the hole and not looked stupid thinking that was a warning sticker on the headstock itself when looking at a picture in a recent thread. If you are going to add an access hole I'd suggest drilling a ring of small holes and then use a hacksaw or grit saw to cut the hole out and then filing it to shape. It is cast aluminum not pot metal, and fairly heavy material, but an 'A' headstock is going to be very old and cracks may have developed in the casting that are otherwise harmless until you start cutting pieces out of it.

edma194 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 01, 2022 1:32 pm It helps to have an access hole for routine lubing of the upper sheaves. I don't know if it needs to be the full size of the access hole if you want to add one. I have a PowerPro installed in an 'A' headstock but the access hole isn't really needed. If I had one I might have noticed that you can see the warning label on the power supply through the hole and not looked stupid thinking that was a warning sticker on the headstock itself when looking at a picture in a recent thread. If you are going to add an access hole I'd suggest drilling a ring of small holes and then use a hacksaw or grit saw to cut the hole out and then filing it to shape. It is cast aluminum not pot metal, and fairly heavy material, but an 'A' headstock is going to be very old and cracks may have developed in the casting that are otherwise harmless until you start cutting pieces out of it.

Pot Metal = Old habits die hard. It tends to default for anything casted with me.
Hack Saw blades and aluminum tends to clog the teeth?

Your process does seem to favor being a more safer solution. Can you just take the lower case off and get to things from there? It means pulling the head off to the bench, maybe I would be ok leaving it as is.

I was curious about one of these, I am getting ready to buy one for a shower I will be tiling shortly.
https://www.amazon.com/Luomorgo-Diamond ... 0585&psc=1

DaOldGuy wrote: ↑Fri Jul 01, 2022 3:56 pm
Hack Saw blades and aluminum tends to clog the teeth?

Hacksaws can clog up with aluminum, but you should only be cutting out the tiny bits between holes. I did recommend the grit saw also, probably easier to get started with that in a small hole.

Your process does seem to favor being a more safer solution. Can you just take the lower case off and get to things from there? It means pulling the head off to the bench, maybe I would be ok leaving it as is.

With a long oiler tube you can lube the sheaves from the back, or even remove the speed dial if you have to, but you can probably get to the sheaves from underneath also. I put the machine in drill press mode to do the lubing, that way the oil runs down the shaft. I assume you don't have the oiling holes in the sheaves on your machine, but maybe it's been upgraded, I don't know when those became standard. I'll bet chapmamruss knows, maybe he'll see this.

I was curious about one of these, I am getting ready to buy one for a shower I will be tiling shortly.
https://www.amazon.com/Luomorgo-Diamond ... 0585&psc=1

I considered using a hole saw, but not a diamond saw like that. I figured I'd secure the headstock to the main table and horizontal bore it at low speed. You'll be drilling at an angle so you may need to gouge out some metal where the saw first touches the casting to get it to enter straight.

But for lubrication you only need a hole large enough to reach the upper shaft with an oiler. I also put a couple drops on the button bearing also, not sure if it actually helps.

I have 3 large windows to do new installs this weekend, I am hoping to have time to flip it up and pull covers to get a closer look at things.

I intend to clean and oil things a bit and play with it and just look for additional issues.

I did a YouTube search on rust removal, I have some parts to clean up. Citrix Acid, Vinegar, WD 40, Evaporust, Coke, Pepsi all came up.
Maybe I am old, but no one did Navel Jelly... Then I could not find Navel Jelly by name.... Loctite appears to have bought it... That Pink Stuff just works. 8)

A more recent dial will not have a stop, but rather a sloping ramp that provides some resistance(feedback) while not requiring action to release it. A loose dial will likely not work very well.

for lubing a stubborn speed dial and speed control (pork chop) I have found a PTFE spray (non oil so no sawdust attraction or buildup)
Super Lube 31110 Aerosols, Multi-Purpose, 11 oz
Brand: Super Lube

Works wonders to free up the dial and speed control and the threaded rods for the carriage locks as well

JPG wrote: ↑Fri Jul 01, 2022 9:07 pm A more recent dial will not have a stop, but rather a sloping ramp that provides some resistance(feedback) while not requiring action to release it. A loose dial will likely not work very well.

The dial works well and is not loose as far as rotations, seems good. The "loose" I referenced is that its just not tight up against the head stock to have enough pressure to catch the stop mounted to the switch.

It may need tweaked a little and tightened up. (I hope)

WoOdbEmE33.... Is the PTFE a dry product? My brain struggles with any wet products not attracting dust. If it works, I will be using it indeed.

I really like Dry Graphite Lubricant, I am seeing some spray forms out there now. I wonder if it will be able to get into all the places that fluids will naturally run/soak?

Ed said,

I assume you don't have the oiling holes in the sheaves on your machine, but maybe it's been upgraded, I don't know when those became standard. I'll bet chapmamruss knows, maybe he'll see this.

So I did see Ed's post. My best guess based on information from the early Shopsmith Owner's Manuals is by late 1956 there were oiling holes in the movable sheaves. The 1st, 3rd, 4th and 5th editions of the Manuals don't even mention oiling the sheaves in the Maintenace and Lubrication section. The 2nd edition of the Owner's Manual from July 1954 has the following

MOVABLE SHEAVES - After every 50 hours of running remove the belt guard D2829 and squirt several drops of light machine oil between the sheaves on the idler shaft B2803 and the motor shaft.

At that time there were no oiling holes in the movable sheaves judging by the lubrication description. Beginning with the 6th edition of the manual dated October 1956 and continuing in later editions, there is a more involved description of oiling the sheaves which includes adding oil through the holes in the movable sheaves. This is still the method of oiling the sheaves used today and can be found beginning on page 53 in the Mark V 500 Summary Manual at the link below. This Summary Manual is from here on the Shopsmith website. It also has more information on using a Mark V than those early 32-page manuals included.

https://www.shopsmith.com/getting_start ... Manual.pdf

Ron,

As for adding the access hole under the Name Plate the diameter at the top and bottom of the hole needs to be the correct dimension to allow the clip on the back of a "B" Headstock Name Plate to hold it in place. The tabs on the left and right sides of the hole are for the pins on the back of the Name Plate to rest in to keep the Name Plate straight. A hole for the Name Plate could be just as functional without those tabs.

You said about the Speed Control, "The dial is stubborn" which may be caused by the Speed Control Assembly or the lack of lubrication on the movable sheaves or both. This would be a good time to remove the Speed Control from the Headstock casting to check its condition. Doing this with the Headstock opened up will make this easier and you can access the back side of the Speed Control Assembly to slip the Idler Shaft Retaining Loop off the end of the Quadrant. The first thing to remove is the Control Handle Assembly which is held in place be a set screw. That set screw is accessed through the notch in the handle side. This would be a good time to take pictures as you go. The rest of the assembly is removed from the Headstock by removing the 3 screws holding it in place. This is when you slip the Retaining Loop off the end of the Quadrant. Don't remove the gear on the left side of the assembly at this time. It should be left in place unless it has some damage to it. With the assembly out of the Headstock you can examine the gear and teeth on the back side for excessive wear. Here is some good news for you, The Speed Control Assembly and its parts sold today are the same as the ones used in your Mark 5 all those years ago.

As for lubrication use lightweight machine oil like 3 in 1, sewing machine oil or Zoom Spout oil on the movable sheaves of the motor and idler shafts. The Zoom Spout Oiler works great for those hard-to-reach places. Dry lubricants are good for places like the gear and teeth of the Speed Control Assembly or any place needing lubrication that otherwise could attract sawdust. Use the Maintenance instructions found in the Summary Manual linked above but use a few extra drops of oil on the sheaves to begin with to get thing moving well again.

chapmanruss wrote: ↑Sat Jul 02, 2022 2:52 pm So I did see Ed's post. My best guess based on information from the early Shopsmith Owner's Manuals is by late 1956 there were oiling holes in the movable sheaves. The 1st, 3rd, 4th and 5th editions of the Manuals don't even mention oiling the sheaves in the Maintenace and Lubrication section. The 2nd edition of the Owner's Manual from July 1954 has the following
At that time there were no oiling holes in the movable sheaves judging by the lubrication description. Beginning with the 6th edition of the manual dated October 1956 and continuing in later editions, there is a more involved description of oiling the sheaves which includes adding oil through the holes in the movable sheaves. This is still the method of oiling the sheaves used today and can be found beginning on page 53 in the Mark V 500 Summary Manual at the link below. This Summary Manual is from here on the Shopsmith website. It also has more information on using a Mark V than those early 32-page manuals included.

https://www.shopsmith.com/getting_start ... Manual.pdf

Ron,
As for adding the access hole under the Name Plate the diameter at the top and bottom of the hole needs to be the correct dimension to allow the clip on the back of a "B" Headstock Name Plate to hold it in place. The tabs on the left and right sides of the hole are for the pins on the back of the Name Plate to rest in to keep the Name Plate straight. A hole for the Name Plate could be just as functional without those tabs.

You said about the Speed Control, "The dial is stubborn" which may be caused by the Speed Control Assembly or the lack of lubrication on the movable sheaves or both. This would be a good time to remove the Speed Control from the Headstock casting to check its condition. Doing this with the Headstock opened up will make this easier and you can access the back side of the Speed Control Assembly to slip the Idler Shaft Retaining Loop off the end of the Quadrant. The first thing to remove is the Control Handle Assembly which is held in place be a set screw. That set screw is accessed through the notch in the handle side. This would be a good time to take pictures as you go. The rest of the assembly is removed from the Headstock by removing the 3 screws holding it in place. This is when you slip the Retaining Loop off the end of the Quadrant. Don't remove the gear on the left side of the assembly at this time. It should be left in place unless it has some damage to it. With the assembly out of the Headstock you can examine the gear and teeth on the back side for excessive wear. Here is some good news for you, The Speed Control Assembly and its parts sold today are the same as the ones used in your Mark 5 all those years ago.

As for lubrication use lightweight machine oil like 3 in 1, sewing machine oil or Zoom Spout oil on the movable sheaves of the motor and idler shafts. The Zoom Spout Oiler works great for those hard-to-reach places. Dry lubricants are good for places like the gear and teeth of the Speed Control Assembly or any place needing lubrication that otherwise could attract sawdust. Use the Maintenance instructions found in the Summary Manual linked above but use a few extra drops of oil on the sheaves to begin with to get thing moving well again.

So Pre 56 is a little more painful My Luck

Name Plate.... If there are no oiler holes and the target is less particular, I may just look at how hard it is to get the 3in1 in from the bottom in drill press mode and skip the additional hole for now.

Speed controls is not stuck or real bad, just gets snug every 4 turns or so, assumed a dirt and lack of lube. I am going to "try" to remove little as possible for now, blow it out good with the compressor, hand clean the reachable and hit with the lube. Once I get the upgrade parts, then I think the party will begin for mods and gutting and cleaning real good. I might save that for a winter process.

Separate question... Does any know if SS ever made a stand alone drill press? A friend says he has one, not sure what he has.

DaOldGuy wrote: ↑Sat Jul 02, 2022 4:24 pm Separate question... Does any know if SS ever made a stand alone drill press? A friend says he has one, not sure what he has.

I have a vague recollection that Magna Engineering (the original manufacturer of the 10E/ER and Mark 5's did make industrial drill presses, but can't find the reference, so I may be wrong.

10ER's are often made into dedicated drill presses, I did that with one of mine, and Mark V's also, so that might be what he has.