Shopsmith Forums

I recently watched this video instruction on a method of ripping thin strips:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FullQWi2ZwM

I set the SS featherboard up to accomplish this my 500 this morning and it worked like a charm. I moved the carriage and headstock all the way to the right to utilize the extension table due to the width of the stock being ripped. I cut seven 1/4" strips and every one of them were the same dimensions - works great and very easy! I am going to try and cut thinner strips tonight. I also was able to use the upper saw guard with no problem while doing this. Alec

Thanks for the link. This was very informative and presents a very safe way of doing something that many of us do frequently.

Temps are approaching 40 degrees this morning so I was able to get out into the shop and fine tune this technigue. I made a zero-clearance insert from some hardboard and was able to rip strips down to 1/32" pretty consistantly, 1/16" with great consistancy. This was with the SS featherboard - I think with a stiffer feather board consistancy would improve. I also noticed that the leading finger on the SS featherboard, the one closest to the blade, is a tad longer then the ones aft of it. When setting the fence I placed the stock tight to the fingers aft of the first one. I could not use my upper guard with the zero clearance insert. Good woodworking wishes to all! Alec

I use this rip jig from rockler. Would have to rig it to fit the shopsmith miter slot.

Look at the video. Anyone reads lips? I don't think he said "fun" LOL!!!

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=18056&TabSelect=Videos

Here is one I made a couple of years ago. It's from Shop Notes and I don't remember which issue, sorry. I use it on the table saw and the band saw. It works great.

Thanks, Curious! If I have a need for many thin strips, I'll look up that issue. Better yet, I'll look up that issue and put it on my list of project references.

So far if in the need for a strip or two I'll just set up and use the cutoffs. Can thickness plane down to 1/8".

I watched the Rockler video and I don't understand. In the beginning of the video, his piece of wood kicks back after the thin strip has already been cut off and the wood is almost all the way through the blade. The video claims the jig will prevent this. How? It seems to me kickback can still occur with this jig.

What am I missing? It only seems to me this particular jig makes things faster and easier, but not necessarily safer.

The youtube video approach seems much safer, with both the featherboard (rather than the Rockler ball bearing!) and the overhanging box jig.

Paul

I do not understand any difference either in any of the methods. I think doing the dumb thing he did with any of these methods would also kick back. He DID intentionally cause the kickback!

The jig George shows, can be found on p. 46 of TableSaw (Tough Cuts Made Easy. It looks like it can be found in a regular issue Volume 16, between 91-96. Mine don't go back that far as I'm fairly new to Shopnotes.

A couple of notes: The Shopnotes Magazine showing Curious George's jig is issue 94. The article goes on to explain this jig is used for long thin strips (defined as over 30" long)

The Rockler video shows cutting short strips with a device like that from Shopnotes/curiousgeorge. I couldn't help but notice the the fellow on the U-Tube video uses a splitter and anti kickback pawls. The Rockler guy doesn't have either of these safety devices. Also the Rockler guy removes the downward pressure he had on the board and also shifts body weight (reaching for the switch?) his push stick and actually backs it up thereby allowing the kickback. Wow! Asking for it!

Back to the Shopnotes article. To make thin strips less than 30" long they have designed an 'L' shaped block 18" long complete with a handle and a replaceable stop to keep the strip from coming backwards. The long leg of the 'L' rides parallel to the table on top of the workpiece while the fat leg of the 'L' rides the fence and the table. In this situation the strip is cut off between the saw and the jig, while the long leg of the 'L' holds down the whole workpiece. The beauty of this jig is twofold. Only one setting of the rip fence and "there is virtually no chance of kickback". (quotes from the SN article)

Importantly - the use of both jigs shown in Shopnotes use a homemade splitter and zero clearance insert. The article even shows how to make these devices.

I agree with Paul Heller - in that neither of the jigs shown will not, by themselves, offer safety. It is splitters, anti-kickback pawls and vertical hold downs that will add safety.