SS jionter vs other brands

[ericolson]

OK, I'm starting to see it a little clearer. I've printed it out and will sit and study till I get it. The SS planer is only 4" right? If so wouldn't you want one that did 6" on up? Or, is this where you glue them together to come up with on big wide board. What do you do when you want a twisted board a certain thickness but have to keep planing it down to get the twist out? Thanks for the help.

I think what you're asking pertains to the jointer. The SS jointer is 4", the SS planer is 12" width. You're correct when you say that with a 4" width jointer, it will be necessary to glue up the stock to get the width you actually want. The same can be said for 6" and greater jointers. It just takes more glue and time with a 4" jointer. Plus, the problem of misaligning the edges, but that's a whole new topic. With the 3/4" stock commonly found in the home centers, you're very limited in how much stock you can remove to get rid of twist, cupping, what have you. When going through the stacks, look for the straightest, clearest (no knots, checks, splits) stock you can find. That simplifies things. Stear clear of any stock that has excessive defects.
I work with rough lumber, usually anywhere from 1 1/4" to 2" thick. Utilizing my jointer, planer, and bandsaw (for re-sawing, yet another topic), I do in my shop what a lumber yard does: mill and dimension my stock to the exact sizes I need, removing twist, cupping, etc. in the milling process. Takes some time, but I get exactly what I need.

[dusty]

This thread has gotten a bit off subject but it sure seems to be hanging onto the interests of the group.

putttn

If I remember correctly, you are in the Spokane area. If that is correct, you really ought to look around for a mill site. You won't find the sort of lumber that Eric is talking about but you can find some rough cut that will allow you the opportunity to dimension lumber.

I could do that too but mesquit doesn't get all that large and it is really tough on the saw blades.
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Making Sawdust Safely

[ericolson]

Actually, Steve Harvey started this thread, so we can blame it all on him!:D Steve, you out there? I can't remember the last time I saw a post from you, with all of the twists and turns this thread has taken. Did you ever get your original question answered? If not, I'd recommend you ask again in a new post, so we can start a whole new thread!
I gotta admit, Dusty, this thread has been quite a bit of fun!

[ericolson]

Wow. I just went back and checked. Steve asked the original question that led to all of this and hasn't been seen since. No further posts. Hope like heck we didn't scare him off!

[dusty]

Actually, I believe we have answered Steve's question as best we (a bunch of biased users) can. The Shopsmith is the Best Way to go unless you have a great passion for something else. If you do, go for it.

A 4" jointer is small for some people, especially those who dimension their own fresh fallen timber. For me, I seldom need anything larger and I joint at least one edge of every stick I touch. It would be foolish and impractical for me to purchase a 6" or 8" jointer.

My 12" Pro-Planer I'd swear by. That puppy will handle as many board feet as any non-professional planer on the market. Puttn dreams about a great big hummer that will be delivered to his place on the bed of an 18 wheeler one day. But until then, I still recommend the Pro-Planer but only if you sharpen your own knives.

This forum has a solution for that small task as well. Get the Shopsmith Sharpening Guide.

To avoid stealing someone else's soap box, I am through.

Goooo Shopsmith!
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Making Sawdust Safely

[charlese]

puttin - - I'll try another way to explain the use of a jointer. The way to do excelent woodworking is with squared wood (boards). The literature is full of warnings that failure to properly size (square) boards is one of the largest causes of failed projects.

The way to get square boards is:
First; flatten the face (Hand plane or joint it)
Second; flatten and square one side to that face (hand plane or joint it)
Third; (here is where you have a choice)
If you are using machines --flatten the other face in a planer to required thickness, and rip and/or joint the other side. Ends are usually squared using a saw.
OR If you are using a hand plane -- Square an end to the face and side previously flattened and squared - -
Fourth; If you are using a hand plane-- Square the second face to the top and the side previously squared. - - you still have to square and flatten the second side and the ends to the previously squared and flattened surfaces.

I don't know of any other reasonable way to get the boards you need for a project, unless you can accept mis-matched pieces. If the face of the board you are going to use is reasonably flat - then you can skip the first step. This flat face is what most of us search for. If we get it we can go right to edge jointing.

Don't feel insecure about starting at 63. That's where I started and I feel good about my hobby.

Incidently, many jointers can also make rabbets. Without looking it up, the SS jointer can do a 3/8" deep rabbet. Width is up to you.

My high school woodworking instructor insisted we square every piece of wood we were going to use in a project and have it inspected by him prior to beginning the project. This is a lesson that stuck! and I'm lucky to have had it. Also gave excellent practice in sharpining hand plane blades and chisles. We used hand planes exclusively for squaring. Really had to be sharp to plane the ends of oak boards.

[putttn]

Well, back to Steve's original question SS jointer vs other brands, I spent the entire afternoon visiting the local power tool store, Woodcraft, Home Depot and Lowes. Looked at a 6" Jet that was prices at $399 at both the local power tool store and Woodcraft. Had a nice base and looked pretty substantial. Looked at a Ricon at $449, also 6" both highly rated by the Woodcraft salesman. A General 6" at $650 and a Powermatic at $750, all using 1 to 1.5 hp motors. They all had 3 blades. Sounds like they are all made overseas. What would these machines do that the SS wouldn't and vice versa. The Ricon and Jet are all priced right with the SS so I might think that unless there is something very substantial the differentiates those machines have over the SS you would go with the SS. I was trying to compare as close to the SS price wise so those machines are the ones I looked at.
Looked at planers and the only one that really stands out is the DeWalt portalble at $550 ($490 at Woodcraft), and the General at $1300.
I guess I ended up like Steve wondering what would be the best way to go.
To confuse it even further I looked at the Williams & Hussey and Hawk but see now that they are meant for additional functions. I'm leaning towards the SS Jointer and the SS Planer but it's really making me wonder about the differences between the SS Planer and the DeWalt. If they made a planer that came on the 18 wheeler and I could cut down all the trees I have on my small ranch and turn them into lumber I'd be all over that too!!:)

[reible]

You do remember the SS unit is a 4" jointer right?

Ed

[putttn]

Yes, I realize the SS is 4" and I looked for something comparable to that but only saw 6'' in the stores I was in.
I'll do some checking into used ones too but the prices I've seen in the past seem awful close to new ones.
Are there any big differences between the SS, Ricon and Jet?

[fjimp]

Five years ago I purchased a Craftsman 6" jointer. I never once managed to get it set up properly. Last year I replaced it with 4" SS jointer. It has worked perfectly first time and every time. For me a no brainer SS rocks. Jim:D