Shopsmith Forums

DaOldGuy wrote: ↑Sun Jul 17, 2022 4:48 pm
He gives the measurements of his belts on a video of 0.58 width and 0.35 height which is a seriously odd size belt. .50 and .625 are standard width.
When I was a kid, a local part store could look the sizes up and bingo, those days are gone. Parts Stores today can only operate on make, model and year.

I've had part stores have trouble finding something without make, model, and year even after I gave them their part number!

RFGuy wrote: ↑Sun Jul 17, 2022 3:37 pm ...IF anyone knows, please post it for us here.

I believe the Jacob Anderson belt is 15mm X 675mm. I recall a thread where someone did comparison testing of speeds and the Shopsmith belt gave speeds closer to the speed chart.

- David

DaOldGuy wrote: ↑Sun Jul 17, 2022 4:48 pm I have seen the bluing done in 3 coats and hold up well with out oiling (I am told) and I would like to test that theory.

I'd be curious to know how it turns out, so please report back if you try this. In my experience with the bluing, it would always start rusting as soon as you do the rinse coat. Supposedly you have to rinse in between etchings because the chemicals are caustic. I think by the end of my experiments in bluing I finally skipped the water rinse coat and did the rinsing in oil. I really didn't find much useful information on bluing online when I looked, so I just followed the manufacturer instructions...

DLB wrote: ↑Sun Jul 17, 2022 5:23 pm

RFGuy wrote: ↑Sun Jul 17, 2022 3:37 pm ...IF anyone knows, please post it for us here.

I believe the Jacob Anderson belt is 15mm X 675mm. I recall a thread where someone did comparison testing of speeds and the Shopsmith belt gave speeds closer to the speed chart.

- David

David,

Thanks. I will try looking these up and see if I can get a spare to have on hand.

This is the video Jacob Mics the belt he had sold.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki137yIxzxg&t=145s

If the belt is a little different, I am certain it would change the speeds a little since those speeds were based on the SS Belt.

I have not used chemicals on the Jointer Deck Parts, the paint on them are really nice. I have been just using WD40 and scotch brite pads. The Milling marking on these are very prominent and easy to see. I think I will be stepping down sand paper on the 6 inch DA to get the surface in better shape. I can get DA paper that starts at 80 grit and walk it down to 8000 grit, however 1500 should be as low as needed.

All of the parts shown in the pics had a really good coat of rust, the drill chuck would only turn with the chuck key. After a bit day in the jelly, water rinsed and WD 40 applied, they all look really good. Those bits I will be hitting with the Super Blue. I still need to sort out how the chuck comes apart so I can deal with the innereds.

I like his divorce comment but this is a totally different "bluing" process.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmv58Z3RZ9c

DaOldGuy wrote: ↑Sun Jul 17, 2022 7:45 pm This is the video Jacob Mics the belt he had sold.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki137yIxzxg&t=145s

If the belt is a little different, I am certain it would change the speeds a little since those speeds were based on the SS Belt.

I ended up getting a belt from shop smith which I found to be way different from my original shop smith belt

Original 3502 SS Belt with wear.
.470 top width
.325 thick
25.75 outside diameter

New Belt
.535 top width
.295 thick
26.125 diameter

There appear to be at least 125 ways to make a jig on YouTube to sharpen jointer/planer blades and the bulk of them look incorrect to me.

Picture of chisel’s with what looks like a wall mount chisel holder?

Lcsurf1935,

You commented,

Picture of chisel’s with what looks like a wall mount chisel holder?

If you are referring to the picture below of the ten different Lathe Chisels from my earlier post, they are simply laying across the Way Tubes of my Mark 2.

_